Milling the head would change the volume of the chambers, so wouldn't it be useless to CC the chambers before the milling?SilverXJ wrote:I would do the P&P then have the head milled afterward.. in case you slip or change the finish on the gasket surfaces. But that is just me. Also, on the old valves grind the edges until it just covers the seat. What I did was put the valve in a drill and put the valve up against a belt sander and cut the valves down like that.
-Chris
Exos's build
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Re: Exos's build
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Re: Exos's build
It depend on how much you need milled. It may be so little you wouldn't even notice it any. What are you attempting to do with CC'ing? Either open it up or equal them up?
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Re: Exos's build
Only equal them up. Machinist said he would need to mill about 0.006 to 0.008.
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Re: Exos's build
I don't think that would change the cc's very much. Besides, you don't have a lot of work to do in the area he is milling. Plus it should change it equally on all 6.
When I did my P&P I cc'd before and after milling.. The change in ccs was hardly noticeable.
When I did my P&P I cc'd before and after milling.. The change in ccs was hardly noticeable.
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Re: Exos's build
Well, see, I'm perfectionnist too
If the head is warped a little, I don't see how milling would change the chambers equally, since one side/corner would be higher then the other side/corner. I'm gonna take my chances and be very carefull.

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Re: Exos's build
I suppose you are correct, but I really think it won't change the ccs that much. But good luck with it. A bit of advice: I would put a few layers duct tape on the head surface just in case you have a problem.
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Re: Exos's build
Hi all. Is this the correct part # (112-6001) for ARP rod bolts, for 4.0L rods ? :
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ARP-112-6001-Rod-Bol ... ccessories
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ARP-112-6001-Rod-Bol ... ccessories
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Re: Exos's build
Yes. The 258 rod bolts are the same as the 4.0. Also do a search for 304 or 360 amc arp rod bolts. They are the same as the 258(confirmed with ARP tech). I got a set from a private seller(not store) off Ebay for $5.00 plus shipping.
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Re: Exos's build
I just received my gasket set (Mopar). I did not measure the head gasket thickness yet, my micrometer is at work. I will measure it this weekend.
Anywho, I was wondering what substitute I could use for prussian blue, or machinist blue, for scribing the outlines of my manifold gasket onto my head before porting? Do auto parts stores carry prussian blue?
Anywho, I was wondering what substitute I could use for prussian blue, or machinist blue, for scribing the outlines of my manifold gasket onto my head before porting? Do auto parts stores carry prussian blue?
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Re: Exos's build
At the very least use NEW OEM bolts. As the bolts are torqued they stretch. Reusing an old bolt may give you a proper torque reading but because of the previous stretch the clamping force will be diminished as the bolt no longer meets design intent..Exos wrote:Question about rod bolts : Shoud I invest on ARP bolts (wich I'm having a hard time finding), or are new OEM bolts OK? Or keep my bolts that are currently pressed in my 4.0L rods?
Plus, there is a part number that I can't seem to find anywhere :
-A brass freeze plugs kit (do they include the front cam plug and rear oil plugs?)
Thanks
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Re: Exos's build
What I dis was place some vinyl over the ports and trace the gasket out with an exacto knife. I work at a sign shop so we have a lot of extra vinyl. You could alss use a sharpie or you could just scribe the outline into the head. Tape it up tight enough and you can use spray paint. I have never looked in to Prussian blue myself, although it does sound like an interesting color... like a vivid blue/purple color.Exos wrote: Anywho, I was wondering what substitute I could use for prussian blue, or machinist blue, for scribing the outlines of my manifold gasket onto my head before porting? Do auto parts stores carry prussian blue?
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Re: Exos's build
Thanks Silver, you just gave me an idea..
I think I will spray paint the head, place the gasket over and scribe into the paint. Or maybe the sharpie would be simpler...

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Re: Exos's build
Any alternatives to Hesco valve cover spacer? I just spent 1 hour googling for other spacers or tall cover, can't find anything. Hesco don't take Paypal, and that's a problem for me.
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Re: Exos's build
Again?Exos wrote:Any alternatives to Hesco valve cover spacer? I just spent 1 hour googling for other spacers or tall cover, can't find anything. Hesco don't take Paypal, and that's a problem for me.
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Re: Exos's build
TurboTom wrote:i will eat my words later if need be.
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