Has anyone used hyper or cast pistons under boost?

[Spliffotticle]

I have seen a few people ruin cast pistons under boost but I don't know if everyone was working with proper mix and timing. Any complaints on the sealed power brand? I have HCP802CP60 and ran them up to temp a couple times when I first built my stroker but quickly learned my improper air/fuel management and ignition timing was going to undo a LOT of hard work. I took off the oil pan to weld on a bung for the turbo oil drain and was pleased to only find the remains of break-in compound. I will maybe grab some pics. I noticed slightly uneven wear on my cam, but I also tried stiffer intake valve springs once and smooshed my little pansy rods, and collapsed the lifters (which THANK GOD recharged and are acting normal, for now...) Anyone know about a stiffer rod? I just replaced them all with melling somethingorothers from Autozone. I'm still trying to find wiring diagrams for my 2000 Laredo for the FTC1

[CobraMarty]

You might have to trace backwards. Start at the cam position sensor and see what color the wires are connecting to it. Then at the crank position sensor and write down those colors. Now in the bundle or wires from the ecu, find those wires. How many plugs are there on your ecu? Take a picture of it. The FTC needs the camPS and the CPS and 12v+ and ground and a true tack signal and manifold vac/boost line.

[montelibre]

I was helpful with this information:

escanear0001.jpg

escanear0003.jpg

[Spliffotticle]

That is winsauce sir. I had the second page with my ftc1 but not the first page. I will be gladly using this

NOW ABOUT THEM HYPEREUTECTICS!
After seeing some of them skirts chiseling the walls and breaking apart I am glad I rounded all of my edges when I removed that bullshit teflon coating. I cannot believe what gimmicks people will fall for next. We can't keep teflon on a high-end skillet, but lets put some on a piston wall durp durp....

[montelibre]

These was my pistons.
Now I have a custom forged Bulltear pistons with dish about 32 cc and the Split Second...
http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... f=5&t=2474

[Spliffotticle]

Oh I remember that when you did it! It was before you had the FTC1. Seeing that was why I stopped messing around and saved up for the FTC1 lol You were not running a tuned system on those, if I recall. The same could be expected with forged if it were not tuned, it would have just taken a little longer. I am curious to scope my cylinders now to see if I puckered anything or worse, because I put about 40 miles or less on it trying to work out bugs... and as you know, boost and no tune =

[gonridnu]

I removed that bullshit teflon coating. I cannot believe what gimmicks people will fall for next. We can't keep teflon on a high-end skillet, but lets put some on a piston wall durp durp....

LOL .... piston skirt coatings are designed to aid in break in and b wear. Everyone is using it from Nascar to NHRA without any adverse effects and all the piston companies are using it now, even a bunch of OEMs. I first saw it in air cooled applications where high heat is a problem all the way around and since then Mahle has introduced a piston skirt coating that is longer lasting than break in coatings and uses dry phosphate lubricant as well as moly in a membrane that actually acts as a cushion on the side of the skirt.

Color me gullible....

[Spliffotticle]

I am not a fan. To each their own. I would like to see a pic of the skirts of installed pistons with more at least 100 miles on them with no scuffing. I guess you would just have to better understand the properties of polytetrafluoroethylene (I seriously almost spelled that right. I originally forgot the "u" lol) to see my pov. After I see a pic of pistons with over a hundred miles and absolutely no metal exposed where there shouldn't be I will "eat my words later if need be", as turbo tom puts it. Until then, anyone who swears by something they don't really know whether works or not (much like lucas additive, also containing teflon ), as my mamaw put is so eloquently, is "talking like someone with a paper assh*le".

[Spliffotticle]

Also, have you used hyper or cast pistons under boost? or were you just giving me a bump

[gonridnu]

Why yes, yes I have. Having owned an engine shop for many years (RPM Machine INc. 2214 Mouton Drive Carson City NV 89706 currently going by the name of Auto Marine Machine) I have built all kinds of crap, disassembled it later for inspection put it back together and sent it back to the track. Oh yeah, and my shop was right across the street from United Engine & Machine (Silvolite, KB, and Icon pistons) feel free to Google earth that shit, they were on Goni Road but within walking distance.

So to answer your question regarding coatings. Yeah I've seen it after Dyno runs, after a couple hundred passes down the track, on broken engines, and on shit that has 100K miles.

To answer your other question regarding cast or hypereutectic pistons (and I am sure I spelled that right) being run under a boost condition. Yes, a bunch of times. Built some 2.3l fords that were turbo thunderbirds built a couple mild street car V8 engines with KB's in 'em.

I personally built 100's and 100's of engines with KB and Sealed Power/ Federal Mogul hypereutectic pistons and have very little to say negatively. They don't like detonation and will blow the top ring land off where maybe a forged piston will stay together but other than that they work and there are a bunch of cool piston designs for a lot of engines. So I would say use 'em on a mild boost application with no real RPM. If you are going to run a bunch of boost, use marginal fuel, or spin it hard then buy a forged piston.

A simple internet search will find your pics of used coated pistons you desire just remember most of the coatings are to aid in reducing skirt scuffing on initial break in so they do wear a little. Oh look, here's a pic at 750 miles of 2 pistons out of the same engine, one got hot and tried to stick in the bore and the other one, well call me Daisy and put me in short shorts cause I don't see any metal showing

Would you like those words baked, deep fried, or sauteed?

[Spliffotticle]

Thank you for your thorough reply. That piston looks pretty good on that side, I will admit. However, the challenge was "no scuffing" and I can clearly see imperfections (though the image is blurry) after only ten hours of use on something that should last thousands of hours (180,00mi/60mph=3000hrs). Like I said, to each their own on the teflon. I am teflon-free.

As for eating my words, it's going to take more than a pic and an uncited claim to convince me that painting internal engine parts is a good idea, even if it is from the head chief executive administrative supervising technician @ wherever it was you said you work...
You built hundreds upon hundreds of engines? That is certainly impressive! Single handed? I guess if you built engines everyday for years, that would be easily doable. I heard one guy say he was in over a thousand fights. I think he mighta been spinnin a yarn

[SilverXJ]

x2 on what gonridnu said. Its there for break in and yes, some will wear off. No harm in it wearing off though.

[Muad'Dib]

x2 on what gonridnu said. Its there for break in and yes, some will wear off. No harm in it wearing off though.

x10000 works great for me and most of the others ive talked to that have used them.

[Spliffotticle]

Sometimes I tell people about taking off the teflon or porting my head gasket and they get genuinely angry! But yous humps is alright. There is a lot of knowledge to be shared on this site. I used break-in oil additive by comp I believe. This is probably the best shot of the skirts and cylinder walls, but after I gave up on the hacker's solution, I stopped driving it until I got the ftc1 hooked up

[Spliffotticle]

The cam wear looks uneven to me, but the engine has literally a couple of hours on it. I think I will probably want to put more break-in compound in when I get it back together.