Apparently the 258 oil pan can handle the high-volume oil pump without needing to be "clearanced". I did the spacer out of the 258 balancer: paid $15 to get the old balancer shipped to me and $20 to the machinist to make it--shoulda just bought Hesco's.
thanks for the advice, i have actually already done both. anythin else? and like i said if YOU need anything off of it your welcome to it.
88 head included
GoMopar440 wrote:Save the harmonic balancer to make a spacer so your pulleys will line up correctly. That is assuming you have the more common long nose 258 crank.
It's easier to just whittle the end of the crank off.
You can get more power out of ANY engine!!!
ASE Master certified engine machinist, gas and diesel
how do you "whittle" steel?? The only way i would have to do something like taht would be a grinder and my machinist says it would be double the cost of a Hesco spacer for him to do it.
ftpiercecracker1 wrote:I still have the 258 that i gutted for the crank and rods, is there anything else that i should keep before it is hauled off for scrap?
engine came complete (valve cover to oil pan)
The 258 crank & rods are obviously worth keeping to build a stroker, the 258 block might be useful to someone who wants to build a smaller displacement I6 for Jeepspeed racing (or even just a stock 258 bottom end rebuild), the 258 oil pan will clear a HV oil pump on a 4.0/stroker, and the 258 timing cover is interchangeable with the 4.0 block.
The 258 head assembly and valve cover can be recycled as scrap.
anythin else? and like i said if YOU need anything off of it your welcome to it.
