Muad'Dib 4.7L stroker build

[SilverXJ]

Put some more cam lube on the cam lobes before you close it up. If you do it with the lifters in, make sure the rest of the valve train is assembled. You will still have to rotate the engine to bolt up the flexplate.

[Muad'Dib]

Lifters are not in.. just used one to degree the cam. I will Re-lube those two lobes. I was more concerned about the bearings from all the rotation.

[SilverXJ]

If you used the Royal Purple lube seen earlier in this thread the bearings will be fine. Just prime the oil system prior to the first start.

[Muad'Dib]

Yep thats what i used ... You helped put my mind a bit more at ease.


Any comments about the 210 degress @ .050?

[SilverXJ]

I don't know. Is that just on the exhaust? From your previous numbers it looks like it is on the intake as well. And being that you don't have a true cam grind card its hard to say what the true numbers are.

[Muad'Dib]

Yeah its both exhaust and intake. Everywhere i read on this cam it says 202 @ .050... im starting to think thats a misprint or something... dunno weird.

[Muad'Dib]

Cam degreeing Spreadsheet just in case people missed it:

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/downl ... php?id=894

[Muad'Dib]

Well got the oil pump and pan on.. along with the head and some misc other things. Pics:

[Muad'Dib]

Ok guys so two questions..

First off... how important is it that the intake manifold is gasket matched? The head is, but the intake manifold looks completely stock. Alot of material could be removed to match it up to the gasket.

Second, how exactly do i go about checking my pushrod length? Do i just torque down the rocker, and then make the length checking pushrod tall enough to be tight enough to still spin? Suggestions there?

Thanks!

[SilverXJ]

If your intake manifold has been matched to the head and the gasket doesn't fit correctly then you will be losing a lot of that flow to the gasket sticking up and acting as wall.

One the pushrod length. Instal the pushrod on the spot you are checking then install and torque down the rocker set. You then extend the pushrod tool until there is 0 lash, when there is no play in the rocker. Its when you can't spin it when very gently trying to spin it. you want to be careful as not to start to compress the lifter. Take that number from the push rod and add whatever you want to be your preload if you have stock rockers. That is your new pushrod length. If you have adjustable you can just use the number from the tool for the length.

[Muad'Dib]

If your intake manifold has been matched to the head and the gasket doesn't fit correctly then you will be losing a lot of that flow to the gasket sticking up and acting as wall.

The intake manifold hasnt been touched.. only the head. The Head matches the gasket perfectly (intakes), but when i put the gasket up to the intake manifold, there is alot of aluminum material that can be removed from the manifold to match it up with the gasket. So the gasket wont be getting in the way at all... its the intake that would need to be finessed. Should i highly consider matching it up?


Thanks for the help on the pushrods... i think i got it... Whats the normal preload?

[dragginwagon406]

If you have the time, I would do it. Try to keep the transition from as cast to the gasket as gradual as practical.

[SilverXJ]

Preload should be .020"-.060".

As for the intake, you can open it up a bit, but blend it well. Also, it is better to have a smaller intake runner than head port vs a larger intake runner. The larger intake runner will make the head have a step which creates turbulence. The smaller will have a step on the manifold which can prevent reversion.

[Muad'Dib]

I might just leave it and see how it runs. I can always do it in the future if i want to...

[SilverXJ]

It should run fine like that.