New 4.6L stroker build

[amcinstaller]

ditto^

lol i posted that but started a new page.

i meant about the driving thing. i remember you were so excited driving it when you actually got to for the short time, if im thinking of the same guy.

[SilverXJ]

My machinist had the dye that dries so I used that. Opposed the the oily stuff that I heard was fidgety to use. At first it took a bit of effort to rotate the cam. All of the cam bearing needed a little of work, not a lot. the #1 needed to most work and #3 probably the least. Most of the #1 was by the oil hole. I used a long straight blade I have in an Exacto kit, which up until now I didn't really have a use for. I took a little off at a time, redying and refitting the cam each time. I used transmission fluid as the lube, its thinner and won'r hide binding like a good engine oil or lube will. I finished up the shaving and the cam was very easy to rotate then, still using transmission fluid. I saw no pattern in the dye that indicated that the cam tunnel isn't straight.

I measure the clearance as best as I could. I used a Power House bore gage with a used set of Mitutoyo mics. The dial indicator that came with the kit was a piece of shit, didn't even use a rack on the plunger. I substituted it with a Mercer indicator. Clearance is .0018"-.0030" with the #3 having the most at .0030".

I also measured run out on the cam gear as best as I could, using the valleys between the teeth. Max run out was .0050"

My machinist though that the #3 cam bearing went in easier than he is use to. That combined with the larger clearance kind of raises a flag. I'll install the cam with moly lube on the journals, drive it about 200 miles then drop the oil pan and check for the bearing being pushed out on #3. If it still fails then I think it might be time for a line bore on it. Possible too large clearances on #3.

Any other suggestions before I throw it back in?

One odd question, why is the cam bearing material so soft?

[SilverXJ]

Lee at Hesco and another machinist think the .0040" cam bearing clearance on #3 shouldn't be an issue. However, Clevite thinks it could be a problem, and Clay Smith says it shouldn't be but could be. Clevite recommended using coated bearings. I will be using the Durabonds I have in there now. The cam is coming back from Clay Smith this week after being checked over and all was found to be in spec. I have made sure that the cam isn't rubbing on any high spots on the bearings, I did have to shave a few of the bearings, but nothing major. It spins very nice in the tunnel just using transmission fluid, which I used when I was bluing the bearings. Its thin and won't hide binding as easily as engine oil or assembly lube will. This weekend I will be putting it back together. I will use moly lube on the can journals and lobes. I will be using the original lifters as I kept them in order so I don't have to do a cam break in again, which means a nice easy first start.

I just need to find some oil. Thinking of Valvoline NSL 10w30 racing oil.

I'm also changing the cam gear lube setup. I don't like how if I need to remove the copper line that I would have to redo it completely as the compression fitting compress the line. As well as the fact that copper line can become brittle from engine vibrations. McMaster-Car has orifice NPT fittings so I an using a .015" orifice fitting. I'll be using the orifice NPT fitting, 2 NPT to AN adapters, 2 90* AN fittings and a pushlock hose.

I am also working on a DIY digital gauge setup using an Autometer pressure sending unit, ISSPro temp senders, an Arduino board, and a 16x2 (or 20x2) LCD screen. I thought about going with standard 2 1/16" VDO gauges, but the only mounting solution would have been on the A-pillar and at that price I would only have two gauges. This way I intend to monitor transmission temp, oil temp, oil pressure and vacuum all in one display. The Arduino can also be programed for many other gauges and features such as a below spec warning, data logging, etc. Seems like a fun device. I'm just hopping I remember my C programming well enough.

[banipal19]

I am also working on a DIY digital gauge setup using an Autometer pressure sending unit, ISSPro temp senders, an Arduino board, and a 16x2 (or 20x2) LCD screen. I thought about going with standard 2 1/16" VDO gauges, but the only mounting solution would have been on the A-pillar and at that price I would only have two gauges. This way I intend to monitor transmission temp, oil temp, oil pressure and vacuum all in one display. The Arduino can also be programed for many other gauges and features such as a below spec warning, data logging, etc. Seems like a fun device. I'm just hopping I remember my C programming well enough.

I will be watching your progress on this ... sounds very interesting!! I am a programmer but haven't messed around with boards yet. I might get one just to mess around with it.

Good luck on the cam bearings man!!!

[Exos]

I will use moly lube on the can journals and lobes. I will be using the original lifters as I kept them in order so I don't have to do a cam break in again, which means a nice easy first start.

Good idea on the lube. I used plenty of ARP assembly lube (for torquing their bolts) on the cam and lifters. Maybe that saved me since I had forgotten an oil galley plug, remember???

[SilverXJ]

Note to self: Next time make sure all holes are plugged. Particularly the cam sensor hole that a nut fell down in and landed in the sump. It would have saved me about 20 minutes fishing around through the sensor hole with a telescoping magnet.

[SilverXJ]

Its in and its running. We'll see what happens. The injectors I got to replace the too large ones are too small.. surprise surprise.

[amcinstaller]

at least you found the open hole with a nut. a coworker found open oil passages with a leak then his 5000 dollar new eagle talon engine turned into a 5000 dollar retime it and drive job.

[SilverXJ]

I'm selling the too large injectors, the XR3E-C5B. I am going to try the Jeep 53032704AB used on the 4.7L engine. Its a 4 hole design and is suppose to flow 25 lbs. Hopefully they will be the best fit.

I have the Arduino programmed for the gauge and working. I still have to make a case for the screen or some sort, Install the wiring then install the display.

[SilverXJ]

I swapped out the small injectors for ones that seem to fit pretty well. I did a quick WOT run on the highway and it went a little rich, like 11.5:1, but they are the best fit of all. I can adjust it closer to 12.7:1 with the Apexi. The PCM hasn't fully learn on the new injectors so it might get better. These are the Jeep 53032704AB / 4133A09360 injectors from a 04-06 4.7L HO engine. They have a green band and 4 holes. They flow around 25 lbs. FYI the 01-03 4.7L injectors have a red band and only two holes. However, they should flow the same. Earlier 4.7L injectors are smaller.

The ones that didn't work:
To small:
Stock 4854181, 22.5 LB:
Ford/Bosch XF2E-C4B, 20.6 lb
Ford/Bosch XR3Z-A4B, 23.5 lb

To large:
Ford/Bosch XR3E-C5B, ~27.5 lb

The case for the gauge is almost finished. Its going to be 3 pieces of plexi. I'm waiting on a backboard for the Arduino so I can solder the wires and resistor on then I need to install the wiring and find a place to mount the gauge. I'm thinking on the left sided of the rear view mirror. I also picked up a buzzer at radio shack to indicator low oil pressure and/or high engine/tranny oil temp. It makes quite and annoying sound.

[strokedzj]

i was just reading through your whole experience on your xj and that sucks. i had my 4.6L built in 2008 and i currently have 15k miles on it and it runs excellent. tons of extra power compared to stock. right now i'm in the middle of switching everything into my 1998 grand cherokee from my 1993. i'm running the comp cams part number 68-231-4 cam with 822-12 lifters and 926-12 valve springs and the only problem i've had in the last 3k miles or so is lifter noise on start up. i called comp cams and they told me it was because i was running synthetic oil and they don't recommed using synthetic on hydraulic flat tappet cams. he said to switch back to conventional oil and if that didn't help then get a new set of lifters... i'm puzzled because i've built small block chevys, fords, and my pontiac engines and run synthetic with no problem. otherwise my jeep has excellent oil pressure. any ideas? also i was running my stock grand cherokee injectors and seemed to run fine but now i've upgraded to the late model intake and i was looking into using the same injectors as my 5.9L durango as they should be 24lb injectors but i see your running 25lb and was wondering if that was too much fuel.

[SilverXJ]

Those springs are wrong for the 4.0L head. You have a seat load of about 175, when it should be 110 or so. You also have 370/380 open load as well as the springs being dangerously close to bind. Unless the seats were cut when the springs were installed. If so they are still too strong for the cam.

[strokedzj]

that's the part number supplied on the camshaft spec sheet so thats what we went by. when i did call comp about the problem he said the springs were perfect for the cam and went back to the oil i was using. i'm going to call them again tomorrow and see if someone else tells me something different. now a friend of mine built a small block chevy for his camaro and he got springs that were too stiff and his cam was shot in less then 200 miles so if mine are too stiff for the cam shouldn't my cam be well worn by now?

[SilverXJ]

Comp Cams doesn't make a cam kit for the 4.0l, or really a cam for that matter. All their cams and springs are designed for the 4.2L. Then they stopped. They know nothing of the 4.0L nor its head.

[strokedzj]

so who makes a good cam for 4.0L? i mean my cam works good but what springs should i be using then if these are too strong? i would love to put a roller cam in it but haven't found anything yet. and i'll be upgrading to roller rockers too.