4.2 crank from an auto to a 4.0 block 5 spd

[Luke]

my question is will a 4.2 crank swap into my 5 spd 4.0 block because i heard the manual and the autos are different a little bit.

and another question... this is my first stroker project. im going to make a 4.5 out of my 4.0
i will install the 99+ intake manifold, but should i keep the stock cam? im on a very tight budget as i just turned 18 and still in high school.

i can do all the work myself, and if i find something i cant do, a family friend is a machinist.

i know i need the following parts:
258 crank
258 rods
stock pistons
engine gasket kit

what else?
should i get a hotter cam?
port the head?
header?

i want to hit 250ish HP and 300 ft/lb at the crank

if you guys can help me email my parts list i need to [email protected] or repost

anyone got a 4.2 crank hangin out takin up space? i need one!

[oletshot]

Several ???'s that will be asked at some point, so let's get them out of the way now.
What year is the 4.0? How many miles on it? What is the intended use of the finished stroker? How tight is a the tight budget, do you have a spending "goal/limit" in mind already?

The first thing I noticed is the 99 intake. My opinion would be to leave it off for now. Save the money you're going to spend on buying it and making it fit, and use it on the stroker build. Lord knows these things tend EAT money. It's a bolt on that could always be added later.

Some of things that aren't listed in your post that you will/may need are:
Timing chain, oil pump and pickup, Main/rod bearings, rings, and wrist pins (your not supposed to reuse them).
A hotter cam will also require new lifters, new rocker arms, valve springs (unless you stay pretty mild on the hot cam) and pushrods (they are to inexpensive to reuse even if the old ones look good and happen to be the right length).

I haven't heard of a difference in cranks, I sure hope there are no differences.

Hope this helps, good luck and keep us posted.

[Mgardiner1]

Nobody has had any flywheel issue's that i know of, when switching form a 4.0 crank to a 4.2 crank. i went from my original 4.2 engine with TF999 tranny, to a 4.0 with original TF999 tranny, to the 4.0 with AX15 tranny, and now have the 4.7 with AX15 tranny and never had any soft of coupling issues.

Don't expect 250 hp on a super tight budget. If you are aiming for under $1000, then reause all the stock components possible to keep the cost down. As Oletshot said, unless your vehicle is 99+ and has the stock 99+ intake, i wouldn't be concerned with it at this time.

About the cam, this route can add up quick. Hot cams usually lead to valve springs, reatainers, and keepers. Of course who wouldn't change those components without a good 3 angle valve job.

You plan to keep stock deck height? Use factory or aftermarket pistons? any aims in terms of which octane fuel to run (directly effected by SCR/DCR)?

[Luke]

well my plan is to use this stroker motor in my 97 xj offroader. i have a 7" long arm lift and 35's. i will be gearing it for more power also. (4.88's)
my buddy has the intake, so i can get it for really cheap. probably $50. i want to build this stroker for under $1300 what are your guys' opinions? what should i run? parts list would be greatly appreciated

[Luke]

oh and also. running premo isn't an issue right now while gas is cheap. I have my hypertech programmer III set to change the timing to premo fuel. but if gas spikes up again, it would be nice to run 87 oct. Well, lets shoot for running.... 89 oct. mid grade is good for me, and still inexpensive compared to premo...

[Mgardiner1]

parts list would be greatly appreciated

Maybe some others would make a list for you, but i won't. I worked very hard on researching, understanding, and planning out my build. I did receive A LOT of direction from the folks around here, but this isn't something that someone can just HAND OUT to you. You might as well just have a machinist build an engine for you and tell him to pick the parts he thinks are good.

Do some research my man, it will give you a lot more appreciation for whats inolved. There is a lot more too it then just a 4.2 crank.

For example, i'll attach a list of parts i used in my build, these are items that i picked that i researched and knew they would work well. Keep in mind too if you go to the new intake, you'll need the newer steerling pump brackets (notice it mentioned in my list below)


4.0 liter block/cyl head/intake manifold
4.2 liter crankshaft
4.2 liter connecting rods
Mopar Cam+lifters 4529230AB
Pistons - Speed Pro Hypereutectic - H802CP +.060
Piston Rings
ARP connecting rod bolts -112-6001
Engine assembly lube
Water Pump - High volume - 110-1080P
Oil Pump - Standard Volume - M81A
GM EOS (Break in oil additive)
Head Gasket - 52449 8585
Exhaust manifold/header
Double roller timing set
Ford 24 lbs/hr injectors
Mopar Mag valve springs - P5249464
Mopar Spring retainers - P4452032
Mopar valve keepers - P4529218
Head Bolts - CHBS-1128
Main cap bolts
Gaskets: (less head and manifold gasket)
Distributor cap
Ignition Rotor
Spark plug wire set
Spark plugs (x6)
Oil Filter
Serpentine belt
POR-20 high temp paint & solvent (manifold)
Standard Abrasives head porting kit
Piston Dishing
Yella Terra 1.7 Roller Rockers
Bolt on 3" exhaust collector
3" Catalytic converter
99+ "Improved" intake manifold
Ace Crankshaft - all machine work
Ignition coil
Thermostat 192 degree
Oxygen Sensor
Power Steering Bracket
Power Steering Pump
Black paint
Vacuum hose supplies
Delrin round stock (cam bearing installer)
Clevite 77 Main Bearing set (MS1947-20)
Clevite 77 Connecting Rod Bearings (CB960P-20)
Clevite 77 Camshaft Bearing Set (SH1980S)
Speed Sensor and connecter
Pushrods
Temp guage sending unit
Accelerator cable
Clutch assembly (Centerforce 2) (52002 311)
Alternator

[oletshot]

parts list would be greatly appreciated

4.0 liter block/cyl head/intake manifold
4.2 liter crankshaft
4.2 liter connecting rods
Mopar Cam+lifters 4529230AB
Pistons - Speed Pro Hypereutectic - H802CP +.060
Piston Rings
ARP connecting rod bolts -112-6001
Engine assembly lube
Water Pump - High volume - 110-1080P
Oil Pump - Standard Volume - M81A
GM EOS (Break in oil additive)
Head Gasket - 52449 8585
Exhaust manifold/header
Double roller timing set
Ford 24 lbs/hr injectors
Mopar Mag valve springs - P5249464
Mopar Spring retainers - P4452032
Mopar valve keepers - P4529218
Head Bolts - CHBS-1128
Main cap bolts
Gaskets: (less head and manifold gasket)
Distributor cap
Ignition Rotor
Spark plug wire set
Spark plugs (x6)
Oil Filter
Serpentine belt
POR-20 high temp paint & solvent (manifold)
Standard Abrasives head porting kit
Piston Dishing
Yella Terra 1.7 Roller Rockers
Bolt on 3" exhaust collector
3" Catalytic converter
99+ "Improved" intake manifold
Ace Crankshaft - all machine work
Ignition coil
Thermostat 192 degree
Oxygen Sensor
Power Steering Bracket
Power Steering Pump
Black paint
Vacuum hose supplies
Delrin round stock (cam bearing installer)
Clevite 77 Main Bearing set (MS1947-20)
Clevite 77 Connecting Rod Bearings (CB960P-20)
Clevite 77 Camshaft Bearing Set (SH1980S)
Speed Sensor and connecter
Pushrods
Temp guage sending unit
Accelerator cable
Clutch assembly (Centerforce 2) (52002 311)
Alternator

Good thing you didn't make him a list.

[IH 392]

The '99+ intake is all but a direct bolt in on the '96 to '98's, only thing I changed was one vacuum port, switched a 180* for a 90*, the power steering bolted right up!

[Mgardiner1]

Good thing you didn't make him a list.

I knew there'd be at least one smart ass in the crowd!!! That list is perfectly available in my project thread. I didn't say i wouldn't share my list, i said given his criteria, i wouldn't DESIGN him a list.

PUNK! LOL

[seanyb505]

My suggestions:
-Lower your expectations given the budget lest you be severely dissapointed and get angry.
-Any 4.2 crank will fit. I have no idea what mine was in before I bolted it up to my ax15. Make sure you find which pilot bearing you need. Its somewhere on Dyno's site.
-Stock cam will do fine, especially since reusing (assuming its reusable) it will help you stay under budget. Dr Dyno went back to his stock stick after an aftermarket bit the dust.
-Treating it like a normal rebuild may save time and money down the road. Bearings, gaskets, oil pump, timing chain etc.
-Its already been said, but you can save bolt-ons for later.
-If you can port and polish the head correctly, go for it, but be careful. Its easy to make it worse quickly.

[George Dickel]

X2 on the above post:
The answer to Q1 is the Pilot bearing. Dino's site lists the different ones based on year & tranny and provides Mopar part numbers. While you've received good info, Dino (and others out there) have done the research for you already. It's not too long of a read and worthwhile.