First 4.6L Stroker...and questions

[altrocker1]

Well, I guess its time to finally get moving again on this project. SilverXJ has been very helpful and I thought for a while I was going to have to liquidate things but life isn't looking quite so bleak anymore. I figured I would start this thread now that I should be sending the block in to the shop again...

BRIEF HISTORY SUMMARY:
Basically I gathered all the parts I needed and the block i needed and took them to a shop. The block sat there while I waited for a cam to come in...first cam was wrong...ordered one from jones cams and while I was waiting, the owner of the shop got arrested and the shop closed with all of my parts in it. I was finally able to recover MOST of what I had but I am still missing a few things. I tried to sell what I had in the classifieds, but now the new owners of the machine shop are going to help me out and cut me a break on everything that I already paid for. SO here is what I have:

-2000 xj block that was boiled and cleaned...no machine work was done despite paying a deposit and letting the block sit there for 3 months
-12 CW 258 crank that has been machined and polished
-stock 242 rods
-ICON IC944 pistons
-Jones cams custom camshaft (specs below)
-clevite main and rod bearings
-New 0331 style head (see below)
-ARP rod bolts
-Melling timing set
-Melling cam bearings
-mopar HV oil pump
-Fel Pro gasket set
-Fel Pro head bolts

The goal was to build a nice torquey stroker that would still run well on the highway. I pull boats and trailers occasionally so having the extra grunt will be nice. Here is what Mike Jones recommend for cam specs:
Cam# Jeep4L, H64307-66299-112
202/208 @ .050"
.307"/.299" Lobe Lift
.491"/.478" Valve Lift w/1.6 rockers
112 LSA
109 ICL

block will be bored .030 over and decked to achieve .050 quench using the victor .043 headgasket...so my questions are as follows:

1) i'm not sure about the head that i have...it was supposed to be a clearwater head, but I'm not sure where he actually wound up ordering from a pic of it can be seen here:

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... =16&t=4962

It appears to be a nice head, but because I can't track it down I don't know what valve springs were used on it. It was ordered from a "performance" shop from my machinist...whom i don't put a lot of faith into at this point. Does anyone know who might have made this head the HTK markings are the only ones on the head. I don't have a way to test the springs either. Should i just pull the springs and have them tested somewhere? I also need to get rocker arms, because they can't seem to find them in the shop Roller rockers are out of the question for now...maybe someday though, but priority 1 is to get this motor running.

2.) I have to order pushrods and lifters (was waiting for rocker arms and such before doing so) but from what is shown here, any pushrod recommendations? I was encouraged to use Hylift/Johnson 2011's but haven't found a good source for them yet. I know others have mentioned that there may be some reboxed hylifts out there?

3.) i still haven't dealt much with an AFR piggyback or what I am going to do with that yet, but plan on doing a custom tune once everything is in place. I'm going to be running a larger TB, but I had neon injectors in the jeep before i pulled the motor. is it worth switching to ford injectors? Neon injectors are 24lb injectors...but it seems like a lot of people prefer the ford injectors.

4.) it appears the former shop lost my piston ring kit...any recommendations on which rings to use with the icon piston set?

thats all for now...i'm sure ill have more as i get through this. feel free to make suggestions as well

[Cheromaniac]

I'll help you out with sourcing some parts:

Lifters: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/c ... /make/jeep
Pushrods: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/c ... /overview/
Piston rings: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/slp-e-234k30 (assuming +0.030" pistons)

[Burnsmacdonald]

If you are going to increase the TB size make sure you port-match the intake manifold, otherwise the advantage will be lost.

Larger injectors, higher lift cam, and larger TB, may mean that you will need your ECU re-mapped to realize the advantages, otherwise you may find that your ECU will 'flatten' the performance and you will run too rich and use a lot of fuel. Better than running too lean, but not ideal (speaking from first hand experience).

[Burnsmacdonald]

PS: If you are decide to go with roller rockers, you may find a clearance issue with the roller rockers (which are beefier) and the valve cover (with the oil baffles installed). Running without the baffles is as problem as you will find a lot of oil being sucked into your intake manifold and your combustion chamber. As I have found (Harland Sharp roller rockers) you will need to get a valve cover spacer kit from Hesco - works like a dream.

[altrocker1]

If you are going to increase the TB size make sure you port-match the intake manifold, otherwise the advantage will be lost.

Larger injectors, higher lift cam, and larger TB, may mean that you will need your ECU re-mapped to realize the advantages, otherwise you may find that your ECU will 'flatten' the performance and you will run too rich and use a lot of fuel. Better than running too lean, but not ideal (speaking from first hand experience).

I actually have the ecu covered. I have a guy who can take care of the ECU for me...he is about the best guy I've found for custom ECU work on OBD II 4.0's. He is hopefully also going to help me do some work on a WJ ecu to help me run an AW4 without a CEL.

[Burnsmacdonald]

Great. sounds like you have it covered.

[jeepxj3]

Harland Sharp non-adjustable roller rockers fit fine without the VC spacer.

Order the lifters directly from Hylift/Johnson.

[Russ Pottenger]

While your statement is basically true, in some cases I've had the top of the rocker arm lightly touching the hex head fastener that attaches the baffle on the cast OEM style valve covers. The easy and simple fix is to countersink the hole and install a replacement flush fastener.