Won't start

[optmaxx]

So I got everything hooked up last night, and when I went to start it, it turned over but I was getting no spark. I later found out that my pigtail extension that goes to the Hesco front CPS had a broken grnd wire so I fixed it and checked it with my volt meter. I went to try again this morning and all it does is turn over, but this time I'm not sure if I'm getting spark because I had no one to crank my engine while I checked, I might have to wait till later today.

I'm pretty sure I put the TDC on the compression stroke on cylinder 1, and inserted the dizzy correctly; the rotor faces the 5 o'clock position. I did feel air push out when I was setting the TDC on the compression stroke. When I wasn't successful in getting the engine to fire, was I supposed to go back and set the timing again by putting he engine back in TDC and drop in the dizzy? That is if I'm still not getting spark?

Another thing is that I exchanged the IAC valve for a new one, but the auto parts store gave me one that looked a bit different. The connector was facing a different direction, I didn't think it mattered because it was for a 4.0 supposedly. Could the wrong IAC valve cause no spark?

The front hesco CPS damper kit was from my old 4.2, I don't know if that makes a difference since it was used on the same harness. also, does anyone have a pic of their distributor connector, I just want to make sure if I have mine connected to the correct one.

[optmaxx]

I'm not getting spark from the coil, I'm begging to wonder if my PCM has good ground, is there a way to check that?

I tried to get some codes by making the MIL light blink, but after turning the key three times it just stayed on.

I tried back probing the coil when cranking the engine, and I only got like 2 volts it seems.

I tried checking the fuses in the PDC, and the engine control 1 (30 A I think) fuse seems to have 12 volts on one side and the other side varies whether the key is turned or not. The engine control 2 fuse didn't have 12 volts with the key turned, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for there to be honest. All of the fuses seem to look good visually.

I've already tried switching PCMs with no luck, and I'm sure that I must have messed up a wire moving everything around, I'm just not sure what I'm looking for. Tomorrow I'm going to check the CPS wiring and under the PDC with a multimeter, I've also already put the engine back to TDC again and made sure the timing was correct. I'm a little worried from cranking the engine, I did prime it before attempting to start it the first time.

I forgot to mention that the inside of the distributor cap was clean with no sign of spark after trying to crank it, and there was fuel in the rail that would squirt out with good pressure from the schrader valve. I plan to disconnect the O2 sensor cause I've read a shorted O2 sensor can cause no spark? I just worry about cranking this thing multiple times and damaging it.

[optmaxx]

Looks like I'm not getting a 5 volt ref to my sensors, I might need to take this to someone.

I did go and unplug each sensor one at a time, but I came up with nothing. The MIL light just stays on after turning the key three times, it doesn't give me any blinks like it used to.

[gradon]

Try swapping the asd relay with one of the other similar relays.

[optmaxx]

Try swapping the asd relay with one of the other similar relays.

Thanks Gradon, but I got it to start yesterday. I swapped out the PCM that I got at the JY and changed the 30 amp fuse that's for Engine Control One and it fired up, so I'm not sure which one did it.

Now I'm trying to find out what normal piston slap sounds like, cause mine seems a little loud on start up, but it quiets down some when it warms up, and it's not noticeable at high RPMs; it runs strong though. Here's a link to my thread about my start up: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... =15&t=4926

I'm going to check my flexplate bolts to see if they got loose because on my book it said to toque them down to 20 ft lbs so I did, but later I saw that on the internet it said to torque them to 40 ft lbs, plus I didn't use any loctite.