New guy here

[Barberlove]

Hey there fellas I'm new here I a few questions for your guys.
I bought a 95 xj with a stroker the guy I bought it from his dad passed away and he didn't know much about it. I did get a huge stack of recipes from him he didn't know what stroker was in there so I called the company that did it and he said at that time and the cost he payed witch was around 3k it would have to be a 4.2 the xj's body has 328k miles the motor got done at 282k miles the issue I'm having is now when I give it a little gas pass 2k rpms and let off it sounds like a bearing or something is spinning has bad clatter also and it lost oil pressure what could be the issue ??? we are going to pull it out this weekend and rebuild it how woud I know what stroker is in there the company that did the motor didn't know it wasn't listed in that way just Said performance upgrade it has a header,borla exhaust highflier cat,throttle body spacer,MSD,

[gradon]

I guess you'll have to drop the oilpan and take a look at the main and rod bearings for wear. You'll need a dial caliper to measure the main and rod journals to figure out what they are and compare them to stock specs. You should be able to see p/ns on the rods and maybe under the piston heads. If there isn't visible wear on the main and rod bearings, then you might have to take a good look at the cam bearings and lobes.

[Barberlove]

Thank you for the info I will do so this weekend when I pull it out

[beiwulf]

Let me try to qualify the best I can with the little experience I have. If dropping oil pan and taking a gander at the bearings take a long feeler gauge and check piston to wall clearance, visual inspect on cam gear maybe wiggle distributor/oiler and check for play. If oiling is still going while driving the drop off when you let off the rpm's shouldn't be a big issue. The oiling is tied into the rpm's. I've heard it mentioned that oiling to cam and some other internals does's occur until after 2k rpm's anyways. Before disassembling for bearing check - check you crank end play with a tool you can use as a lever in-between the crank throws and wedge up against the block (crankshaft end play tolerance 0.0015-0.0065 inch). Depending type of material of pistons used your tolerance will carry (0.0009 low side to as much as 0.005 inch depending on material). 0.005 being a Forged 2618 material and a very large clearance for piston to bore/wall. You could always pop your valve cover to and do a quick clearance check on lash.

I hope that helps, somethings that come to mind thinking of what you described. Anyone here with more experience then myself can chime in and straighten me out if I'm off.

Here is a useful link with clearance info on engine parts for this beast and some assembly tips.
http://oljeep.com/JeepEngines.pdf

/cheers
B