Rocker arm upgrades

[Frankenstien]

Hey thanks for letting me join the group!!

I have an older Cj I am in the process of building a stroker motor for
and I have visited many forums without finding the answer or conformation
somebody has used this method.
So I am using the 4.0 head and block with 258 rotations 707 bla bla and the rockers are the concerns, I saw Mojos page on the old style 258 shaft head with the big block Chevy rockers with custom plate to mount them.
Got me thinking....using the 7120 or 0630 head, it seams one could use the 5/16 -18 lower and 7/16 -20 upper rocker studs by crane and top them off with the BBlock Chevy rollers like the Comp Ultra pro magnum Xd's. Guide plates used of course. Crane seems to have some nice ones with poly guides that are serviceable.

Last concern I have is the push rods. When swapping out to the 4.0 head sing block or not one must be using the 4.0 push rods with oilier holes?
Can anybody confirm these thoughts please?
Thanks!

[Cheromaniac]

You can get a set of Harland Sharp bolt-on roller rockers from Summit Racing for $365.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s40196

As for pushrods, stock length 4.0L pushrods should be OK if the head/block haven't been decked.

[jsawduste]

No offense Dino, you are correct that the 4.0 push rods are likely what is needed but at the same time there were a number of different lengths over the years. Only way to be sure is to use a PR length tool. Cheap investment and then you KNOW what you need lengthwise.

Not comfortable with blanket statements.

The Crane part/BB Chevy rollers I`ve used before when 4.0/4.2 RR`s were not available. Nowadays you have a few choices on roller rockers. IMHO the extra work is not worth it unless your going to be spinning the engine 65 or better for extended times.

[SilverXJ]

As said go with the bolt on Harland Sharps or Yella Terras. If you go adjustable you will need a valve cover spacer and thermostat spacer. All other options take quite a bit of machining to fit. Not worth the cost. BTW, the 4.0L adjustable will not make up for the wrong length pushrod.

As for pushrods you will need the 4.0L style that has the oil passage. If you don't have a pushrod length checker you can get a stock 4.0L rod and see where you are in terms of preload. You might get away with stock 4.0L rods, you might not.

[BADASYJ]

Unless your going with solid cam and need adjustable rockers the stock stamped rockers will be sufficient.
Don't fall for the hype, those aluminum rockers will do nothing for performance and they will not last as long as the stamped rockers. There is also more parts to fail. All they do is look nice n shiny when you put them on. Even the all out race motors only turn around 7000rpm. Those piston speeds are still within stock rocker territory

[Cheromaniac]

No offense Dino, you are correct that the 4.0 push rods are likely what is needed but at the same time there were a number of different lengths over the years. Only way to be sure is to use a PR length tool. Cheap investment and then you KNOW what you need lengthwise.

I was going to make the same suggestion John but figured the OP could do a trial fit with the stock 4.0L pushrods if he already has them and see if the lifter preload is within spec (1/3 to one full turn of the rocker arm bolt to reach 19lbft torque from the "zero lash" point).

[Frankenstien]

Sounds good and I think I may be going with the Harlan adjustable kit then and use the spacers for the cover and water housing. The head and block have been shaved .
Yes I have an adjustable to check for accuracy in rod length. Think I still might use the guide plates by crane though
Thanks!

[SilverXJ]

Using the guide plates with self centering rockers arms is a recipe for failure. You don't just put guide plates on because you want to.

[Frankenstien]

Straight off summit site......


Brand: Harland Sharp
Manufacturer's Part Number: S40196A
Part Type: Rocker Arms
Product Line: Harland Sharp Original Roller Rockers
Summit Racing Part Number: CSP-S40196A

Rocker Arm Mounting Style: Pedestal
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.6
Rocker Arm Style: Full roller
Stud Size: 5/16 in.
Shims Included: No
Rocker Arm Material: Aluminum
Self-Aligning: No
Rocker Arm Body Style: Standard
Rocker Arm Finish: Orange anodized
Quantity: Sold as a set of 16.
Notes: Adjustable set requires a valve cover spacer and shorter pushrods for installation.
In-Store Pickup: Choose In-store pick-up (OH, GA, NV) on our web site.

If you plan on adding performance to your street machine or building a serious racer, Harland Sharp's Original series roller rocker arms are recommended for you. Using the very latest manufacturing technology and only the very finest materials, the Original series roller rockers incorporate race-proven enhancements, such as improved strength, performance, and lighter weight over conventional rocker arm designs. Don't settle for any ol' rocker arm--go with a true leader in roller rocker arm technology--Harland Sharp!

[SilverXJ]

Summit is wrong. There is a shaft between the rocker pairs that aligns them. See this thread: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... ?f=5&t=137 The only Harland rockers than need guide plates is the S4096, which uses studs, adjusts using the center bolt and requires head machining.

[Russ Pottenger]

Summit is wrong. There is a shaft between the rocker pairs that aligns them. See this thread: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... ?f=5&t=137 The only Harland rockers than need guide plates is the S4096, which uses studs, adjusts using the center bolt and requires head machining.

SilverXJ,
I believe both You and Summit are correct.

Your correctly describing the steel shaft between the trunnions on the Harland rockers.

Summits description of a self aligning rocker I believe relates to the roller tip found
on late model small block Chevy's and Ford's.

[Cheromaniac]

One thing for sure is that the Yella Terra, Harland Sharp S40196/S40196A, and Mopar Performance roller rockers are pedestal-mounted with aligning shafts, which makes the use of pushrod guideplates unnecessary.
Guideplates are usually required for stud-mounted rockers.

[Frankenstien]

OK I don't know how to do it on this site but I wanted to see how many folks went with a roller rocker set up and what type/brand. Would somebody help , me create a survey where all the members could just choose the option brand type and it would calculate rather than counting all the replies? I have a mini cooper Supercharged and that forum will allow us to create that but I don't see it here?
Yeah I know one extreme to the other and let them rip about the cooper s I can take it. Ill try to show a few pics in the appropriate topic here this weekend.

Thanks!

[Cheromaniac]

I have the "yellow terrors" from http://www.quadratec.com/products/51103_500.htm but I bought mine more than 8 years ago for $364.



Back then the only alternative was the Mopar Performance versions sold by Hesco which were much more expensive.

[SilverXJ]

I run the Harland Sharp Adjustables on mine. You will need a taller valve cover or a valve cover and t-stat housing spacer. I like the adjust-ability because I can set the preload exactly where I want it on every valve. However, do not think that you can make up for the wrong length pushrods with them.

I also ran the Yella Terra non adjustables until a "machine shop" destroyed them for me with bad pushrods and dirty engine assembly. They were good rockers as well, but non adjustable. They do make adjustable ones, but I don't think they are easy to get a hold of here.

The one major positive of the Harland Sharp rockers is that they are rebuild-able. I've had my rockers serviced in the past by HS and their prices have always been good. They are always easy to get a hold of and help you out. I can't say the same for Yella Terra. It was a bit difficult to get through to someone and they won't rebuild them. They were more than happy to sell me a completely new set though. I still have that set of YT rockers here.. still damaged.