2001 Based 4.6 - Few Questions

[datmony]

I am building a stroker based on a 2001 4.0. I previously had a Golen built, 95 based 4.6. I decided that I wanted to do a later model serpentine system and as such picked up a 2001 block instead. That is currently at the machine shop. Getting bored 30 over and decked. I am going to run my same 95 head since it was in good condition still with low miles, that is being tapped for the hole that the later model motors have to run the idler pulley. Additionally all of the pistons, rods, cam, and cranks looked to be in excellent condition so I am just going to go ahead and run all of the.

The few questions I have:

1. Crank bolts - What should I be doing for crank bolts? I want to run the later style bolt to allow me to run that stiffening plate. What is the best to run here?
2. Head Bolts - Same basic question as above.
3. Bearings - The machine noted they would source bearings for me. Anything particularly special about a certain set over another?
4. Seals - What would be the best set of seals out there?
5. CPS - I have the Hesco bracket to mount it at the harmonic balancer and I also have an advance adapters bellhousing going to the NV4500 which would allow me to run it off the flywheel. Any advantages to doing it one way or another?
6. Fuel rail - I have both a 95 fuel rail with the return blocked off with the plate from Hesco and I also have a 2001 style, any advantage to one over the other. Was thinking of running the 2001 one but curious if the 95 is better for any reason.
7. Ignition - I have the distributor from my Hesco 4.2 kit. Is there value in upgrading that to anything different? Planning to run it but if there is a reason to upgrade it to something else?
8. Injectors - I know there are ton of opinions here, would love insight into pros and cons of each option.

If it makes any difference in your answers, a few more answers about the setup I will be running. This will be ODBI running the Hesco Mopar kit computer and I will be piggybacking a Unichip. Additionally It will be running a 62MM Throttle body, Hesco Spacer, Banks Revolver header.

I would love any and all thoughts. Have a great night.

[SilverXJ]

1. Crank bolts - What should I be doing for crank bolts? I want to run the later style bolt to allow me to run that stiffening plate. What is the best to run here?

Stock bolts for the block with the main girdle are your only option. Most reuse the old ones and I have never heard of an issue with them. You will need a couple hardened washers between the bolt head and the girdle to space it off from the crank shaft w/ its increased throw.

2. Head Bolts - Same basic question as above.

Stock or ARP has recently came out with a bolt kit. Check the FAQs for part numbers. I prefer the ARP. Reusable many times and much better quality than the stock ones.

3. Bearings - The machine noted they would source bearings for me. Anything particularly special about a certain set over another?

Clevite is always good. Having them coated is an option. ACL and King are good as well.

4. Seals - What would be the best set of seals out there?

Fel-Pro for the engine year and a MLS head gasket. Take note on the RMS though. The later years came with one with out the 'wings'.

5. CPS - I have the Hesco bracket to mount it at the harmonic balancer and I also have an advance adapters bellhousing going to the NV4500 which would allow me to run it off the flywheel. Any advantages to doing it one way or another?

Isn't the Hesco adjustable? Is the bellhousing mount adjustable?

6. Fuel rail - I have both a 95 fuel rail with the return blocked off with the plate from Hesco and I also have a 2001 style, any advantage to one over the other. Was thinking of running the 2001 one but curious if the 95 is better for any reason.

You are running a return-less system already? If so I wouldn't worry about the rail too much. The 2001 may have one less leak point.

8. Injectors - I know there are ton of opinions here, would love insight into pros and cons of each option.

We would need to know more about your fuel system. Pressure, what PCM, return less?

[datmony]

Many thanks for the reply, fit with the thoughts I was having on things well. The Hesco unit is adjustable for distance and alignment where the bellhousing one would not be so that is a good thought.

For the fueling system, yes it will be returnless. Same thought I had about one less failure point and surely someone out there will be able to use the Hesco blocking plate that I have. For the rest of the items I am still determining how that will actually be set up. I am having a custom fuel cell built for fit into a modified Kilby skid (needed to clearance it for the pumpkin on the D60) and that will have an intank pump. I will then run a matching adjustable pressure regulator. All fuel line will be 3/8".

For the computer, I will be running the Hesco computer from their Mopar Fuel Injection kit along with a Unichip so I will have a lot of potential adjustability through that unichip as well. With it being the Hesco computer it will be ODBI.

If it makes sense to not source the injectors until I know exactly what pump and regulator will be run that is not big deal, I was just starting to get all my ducks in a row. Been trying to sock away some money for the fuel cell now as since it needs to be custom, it will be pricccccceeeyyyyyy. If there is anyone here that knows of a good place to check for alternate pricing on custom fuel cell/tanks that would be great insight to know.

Thanks again for all of the thoughts.

[datmony]

The additional follow on, any guidance on:

1. Lifters?
2. Pushrods?

Anything special I should be using? Thanks again for all of the help and guidance.

[RenoF250]

The additional follow on, any guidance on:

1. Lifters?
2. Pushrods?

Anything special I should be using? Thanks again for all of the help and guidance.

I have no experience on this just what I have read but I went with the Crower Camsaver lifters, they have a groove in them that lets some oil down onto the cam for better lubrication. Outside of that I have not read of much preference from anyone other than the Crane cams seem to have more than their share of flat lobes so I avoided them.

You may be able to use your stock pushrods. You will have to get the engine together and check lash. If you need new there are many places that make custom length. I have not read of anyone claiming some are better than others. If you need shorter rods you can just shim the rockers a bit.

Why the custom fuel cell?

On benefit of return fuel system is the fuel get circulated and cooled. The problem is the return is the same end as the feed so #6 still gets warm fuel. I don't know why they did not put the return on the other end, that would let it push the air out also.

[datmony]

The fuel cell is due to the rear axle that I am running. This is a very mild lift that will be on this Jeep since I want it to still be very streetable when done. I have custom 3 1/4" National Springs that have been made for it, spring under with 33s, and am running a Dana 60 in the back. I still want a large talk like the 20 gallon that was in here, however to make the axle fit the way I wanted it and not hit the rear fuel tank skid I needed to channel it for the pumpkin. I could have went with a Genright kit but it would only be 15 gallons and I really did not want to lose that much fuel capacity.

With that I am going to have a fuel cell made that will fit into the modified Kilby skid. I talked to one place that will allow me to just ship him the skid I have clearanced and he will build me the fuel cell to fit that space. He noted as well that since I have quite a bit of space up above the tank with the slight body lift that I am doing that he think he can go up a bit with the tank as well and get me an extra 2-3 gallons. So with 22-23 gallons and an extra 10 in Jerry cans off the rack I should have quite a bit of potential distance that I can get out of this.

I have some expedition style trips planned once this thing is done so I want to have a lot of flexibility with it.