Some of you may remember my build Simple/Budget build of a few years ago: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... f=15&t=607. Well after battling some oil pressure issues, I pulled the oil pan and found the bearings were trashed. Guy looking at my crank/bearings said something about oil contamination or possibly a bent rod. Time to tear everything back down try again. Hopefully I learned some things from the first go around, and there are some areas I'm trying to improve on this time.
I've got everything torn down and currently looking for a machine shop in WNC that can work on the block. The two shops I used before have since shut their doors or no longer performing the work. The plan is to have the deck machined to get a better quench and higher compression. Lots of room for improvement there. Also planning to have new cam bearings and freeze plugs installed while its in the shop. My stock cam/lifters still functioned fine (no ticking), but at +150k miles I'm debating swapping them this time. Any suggestions on a cam choice for off-road & torque?
Guy looking at my crank/bearings said something about oil contamination or possibly a bent rod
How many miles did you put on it since your rebuild? I'm wondering what kind of bearing clearance you were running. An improperly polished crank can eat bearings like that also.
rradford9 wrote:My stock cam/lifters still functioned fine (no ticking), but at +150k miles I'm debating swapping them this time. Any suggestions on a cam choice for off-road & torque?
Yeah, a stock replacement Melling cam. DC really nailed it when they introduced a new cam profile for the 4.0 in '96. With the head ported and a set of Yella Terra 1.7 roller rockers, it'll be a recipe for a nice flat torque curve from off idle to 4500+rpm.
Guy looking at my crank/bearings said something about oil contamination or possibly a bent rod
How many miles did you put on it since your rebuild? I'm wondering what kind of bearing clearance you were running. An improperly polished crank can eat bearings like that also.
Less than 10k miles on it. I know it was plasti-gauged and said the bearings checked out ok. Not sure about the quality of the machine work...I bought the crank from an "engine shop" on ebay.
Taking the block to the machine shop today. Going to have .035" cut off the top which should bring quench down to .050" and raise DCR to 8.13 (altitude of 1000') with the OEM cam. While the block is in, it'll get new cam bearings and freeze plugs. I'll probably end up reusing the stock cam but put new lifters in.
Are the Johnson lifters still available and recommended?
SilverXJ wrote:Yes they are. PN 2011. Call Johnson directly.
Just FYI for anyone that may pull this up in a search...Evidently Topline (http://www.toplineauto.com/index.asp) is who sells the Hylift Johnson lifters PN2011. I first called Johnson lifters (http://www.johnsonlifters.com) and was told they do not sell the 2011's.
Also, I found a used APN header for the newer 01+ 4.0 manifold style for around $200 and am thinking about adding it to the build. I know it will make an improvement in sound, but haven't been able to find any documentation of increased performance.
rradford9 wrote:Just FYI for anyone that may pull this up in a search...Evidently Topline (http://www.toplineauto.com/index.asp) is who sells the Hylift Johnson lifters PN2011. I first called Johnson lifters (http://www.johnsonlifters.com) and was told they do not sell the 2011's.
I should have clarified that they are Johnspn/Hylift lifters. Not the other Johnson. Last time I spoke with Johnsonlifters.com they do make lifters for the 4.0L. However, they were $300 a set.
rradford9 wrote:Just FYI for anyone that may pull this up in a search...Evidently Topline (http://www.toplineauto.com/index.asp) is who sells the Hylift Johnson lifters PN2011. I first called Johnson lifters (http://www.johnsonlifters.com) and was told they do not sell the 2011's.
I should have clarified that they are Johnspn/Hylift lifters. Not the other Johnson. Last time I spoke with Johnsonlifters.com they do make lifters for the 4.0L. However, they were $300 a set.
No problem bud. Thanks for the PN...saved me from a $200 mistake!
Tom, the oil pressure issue was no/extremely low oil pressure at warm idle. I was hoping it was just a faulty sensor, but confirmed about 6 psi @ warm idle which prompted the probing into the oil pan.
Picking up everything from the machinist tomorrow. He said the rods were in real bad shape and needed a lot of work. Waiting on some final parts to come in and should be ready for rebuild.
Parts list ended up:
-2000 4.0 Block - decked .035"
-Rods reconditioned
-Crank turned .040/.020
-New crank/rod bearings
-New Head Bolts
-New Timing Set
-Victor Reniz Gasket Set (MLS head gasket)
-Stock Cam
-New Cam Bearings
-Freeze Plugs
-Johnson Hy-lift lifters
-JBA Header
-New Radiator
The head was P&P'd and had a valve job the first go round, so I'm leaving it as is for now. I also ordered the tool to measure for custom length push rods. They'll be the last thing ordered. Excited to be on homestretch to rebuilding and getting the jeep running again!
Finally getting this thing put back together. Mains plastigauged at .002-.0025 and rods were .001-.002. Deck Clearance is .010. Swapped in some 9.594" pushrods to for .042 lifter pre-load. (Thanks FAQ for part #'s!) Primed oil pump and got it 90% back into the jeep. Should have it up and running sometime this week...can't wait!
