Radiator Fan- Automatic Running for Cool Down

[CobraMarty]

When I park and turn off the engine, the under hood temperatures soar!! And I get terrible 'heat soak' but no problems yet like vapor lock.

Would running the radiator electric fan for say 5 to 10 minutes, after turning off the engine, helping to move the air thru the engine bay and helping to get all that hot air out of there, so that there is less heat soak?
I already have a hood vent and the rear of the hood spaced up.

Any thoughts or ideas?
I reconfigured a 'turbo timer' so that when you turn off the engine, the electric radiator fan will turn on and run for adjustable 0-10 minutes.

[amcinstaller]

i had an electric fan control on my 86 daytona turbo z. when i wired it, i just ran it to constant power, and it would come on and off for a little while after i shut the car off (or even after the turbo timer kicked off) and that was just dependant on the coolant temp. i never really paid much attention (like sitting in it with the key on engine off) to watch the gauge or anything, but ive seen a few cars done that way. maybe that could work? might use less power than to run a fan for 10 minutes constant

[SilverXJ]

Would running the radiator electric fan for say 5 to 10 minutes, after turning off the engine, helping to move the air thru the engine bay and helping to get all that hot air out of there, so that there is less heat soak?

Yes. Search Naxja on a thread on how to do that. There is a good thread.

[superstingray77]

Just .02 but do you by chance have a good Be-Cool aluminum radiator? I had this same issue with my 71 442 Olds after I built up the engine .040 ported W-31(by the legend Joe Mondello) heads, 10:1 compression flat tops, and fairly decent sized cam. Even a stock GM 4 row radiator would heat soak and barely keep the engine around 210 on the highway but with the 2 GIANT Derale electric fans running it would slowly inch back down to 180 at lights but then wanted to boil if I shut it down even after an idle cool down. I added a huge oil cooler, remote mount filter, big oil pan,trans cooler,Mondello aluminum tight tolerance water pump, etc and still the problem persisted. I even went as far as leaving one fan and an electric circulation pump active using a headlight timer so that when the key was turned off 1 of the dual fans would stay on until temps held under 170. The fans would cycle for a good 30 minutes after I was done driving the car!
The Fix.... I ordered the biggest aluminum radiator that would fit in the stock position from Be-Cool / Summit. ($300 bucks ouch) For the first time in 3 years the car ran 180 all day and cooled down in seconds after shutting it down. After 2 factory radiators both new and one parts store Modine unit all big HD 4 row units! If I had not already changed cylinder heads once in that 3 year span I would have suspected a crack someplace but knew better as I checked the block when I had it out last year for the W-31 head swap. (they were on the shelf for a few years in a box)

My WJ with a (new) factory radiator will over cool the $$$ out of my stroker if the t-stat is not working properly it will run as cool as 130 in traffic with the AC on if the stats stuck open. I looked under the hood of my 96 Cherokee Country with stock 4.0 and realize the radiators are not nearly the same size.

[Cheromaniac]

When I park and turn off the engine, the under hood temperatures soar!! And I get terrible 'heat soak' but no problems yet like vapor lock.

Would running the radiator electric fan for say 5 to 10 minutes, after turning off the engine, helping to move the air thru the engine bay and helping to get all that hot air out of there, so that there is less heat soak?
I already have a hood vent and the rear of the hood spaced up.

Any thoughts or ideas?

You could just open the hood for 5-10 minutes. If it's raining, pull the latch so that the hood stays ajar and don't open it altogether.