4.7 Stroker possible cam failure.

[superstingray77]

Well the stroker was finally running nicely so we took it on its first short road trip (300miles each way). Ran great avgd 23.7mpg on interstates with speeds around 80. Went to leave the race and heard valve tapping on one valve.. didnt like that... not loud enough to hear with windows up but only at about 1500 RPM and above, drove to hotel shut it off for the night. Got up the next morning changed the oil at the nearest lube station used Mobil 1 ( was running Joe Gibbs Driven break in oil) saw metal flakes in the oil and filter . No knocks, no smoke, good power we drove it easy back to Austin with the clean oil. Got a Cyl 3 misfire code near home, pulled plugs, looked good ran compression on all 6 they were all spot on at 150psi on 1st bump. Changed oil again, metal present... removed valve cover and found metal on rocker bolts, and metal colored + new oil laying on top of head. Sadly i fired it up without the valve cover and notice zero oil getting to the top of the rockers/pushrods were dry. At this point shut down and removed cam sensor and installed my drill motor primer on the oil pump. (gauge showed good pressure and goes up linear with drill speed to almost 3/4 way up gauge) (have actual gauge not BS switch that just sits in middle no matter what) still nothing to the top. At this point I have concluded that whatever went south (hoping cam lobe) has polluted my engine passages with so much metal that oil isnt flowing to the top. removed the rockers nothing is burnt up as there is still some oil on them. # 3 exhaust valve doesnt lift all the way (dial indicator on pushrod) and that valve has the tapping noise/clearance that i could hear. So assuming this POS comp cam only lasted 2000 miles despite a proper break in sequence, proper oil (Joe Gibbs Driven high Zinc break in oil) and liberal doses of assembly lube(comp cams red).

I have to tear down the engine this week/weekend to see what is ruined. Any chance my new crank/rods/pistons/bores survived this?
As mentioned no knocking, good power etc just got noisy.

-R

[97stroker]

Sorry to hear about the bad news. I am working on the valve train for my 4.6 motor and that is my biggest fear right now. Just would like to know what springs and cam were you using?
Thanks

[SilverXJ]

Its a good possibility that the other parts survived. Might just need new bearings and a crank polish.

[superstingray77]

Im hoping my good ear and quick oil change before having to drive it home 250 miles on the hwy may have helped save it. Going to tear it all down this weekend and inspect/plasti-gauge everything etc. I was using a comp cam 68-232-4 with springs that had 95# on seat and 250# open @.500. Broke it in properly with Joe Gibbs break in oil with high zinc, even added more zinc additive on top of that. When we got home it was still running nice and strong and no knocks or noises at idle, only at 1500+ would #3 exhaust start to tap (not loud enough to really hear it in the car). Still had great power and got 22.3 on the hwy into a headwind doing 75-80. (2200 rpm). New cam is a custom ground 505 performance solid lifter, nitrided 230 duration and .544/.544 lift and having 2"/1.60 8mm valves with full cnc porting/bowls etc done head is supposed to flow 300+ @.500 on the intake and 200+ on exhaust side. So hopefully this one wont fail and combined with the custom PCM flash should make some decent power. Keeping fingers crossed ill let you guys know what i find. Here was the video of it with magnaflow muffler and 2.5" pipe dumped under it, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbQJmbRyQ6c

[SilverXJ]

You are going to run a solid lifter on the street?

[superstingray77]

Thats the plan, ill just have to run the valves every 15k or so.

[SilverXJ]

As long as you know what you are getting into.

[Cheromaniac]

Changed oil again, metal present... removed valve cover and found metal on rocker bolts, and metal colored + new oil laying on top of head. Sadly i fired it up without the valve cover and notice zero oil getting to the top of the rockers/pushrods were dry. At this point shut down and removed cam sensor and installed my drill motor primer on the oil pump. (gauge showed good pressure and goes up linear with drill speed to almost 3/4 way up gauge) (have actual gauge not BS switch that just sits in middle no matter what) still nothing to the top.

I suspect your problem might be the cam bearings. If the oil holes weren't properly aligned in the block, the top of the engine would be starved of oil.

[I6FAN]

x2, sounded like cam bearing issues to me also. Any new developments to see what actually went wrong here?

[superstingray77]

Sorry guys, been slammed with stuff at the office lately. The cam wiped out the #3 exhaust then it appears it continued on to wipe out 3 more lobes badly with others less severely damaged. The lack of oil to the top was only after the failure and the massive amounts of metal being circulated through the entire engine, clogging up the lifters, pushrods and other passages. I dont think it was the culprit as the bearings were lined up with the oil holes and had good flow when we primed it before the initial startup. Going back in with a 505 solid lifter/cnc ported head and 2" valves with custom tune and stall convertor. .544/544 [email protected]. Wiped out all the bearings, re-honing cylinder, replacing rings, bearings etc. polish crank and of course new oil pump and cam bearings. How do I post pics here... i have plenty to view.
for now if you want you can see them on the jeepform.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/4-7 ... e-1357333/

[604rail_king]

Sign up for a free media hosting site (ie: photobucket). Upload your photos there, then just copy/paste the picture links in this thread.

Is Hesco the only place that sells the solid pin cam kit?

[SilverXJ]

I didn't know hesco sold one. Its not really one size fits all and will have to be trimmed to get the proper end play on the cam.

[superstingray77]

Latest:
Block re-honed no boring required piston to wall for the KB forged pistons set at .0050
Crank polished and still at stock rod /main size, thankfully crank was not harmed either.
Adding ARP bolts to replace some off brand that Titan used in the rods, having machine shop touch up the big ends and make certain everything remains round.
New cam bearings of course.
Custom ground Nitrided solid lifter cam with some serious duration on a 114 centerline and .527/.544 lift
Head is a CNC ported, 2" LS valves with LS style beehives.
Fully adjustable roller rockers and guideplates

Wish me luck this round guys, im hoping that this will be the last time I have to open this engine up for a few years at least, aside from the regular valve lashings due to my bright idea of using a solid cam

[dwg86]

Don't use the instructions from Harland Sharp's website on installing roller rockers. They say to mill .400 off the rocker bolt pads. That is way too much! You won't have much thread engagement on the rocker nuts. I would just remove the thickness of the guide plates.

[dwg86]

Also, don't tap the rocker bolt holes for 3/8 studs. Use the studs that have 5/16 bottom and 3/8 top. Comp and Crower sell them.