my stroker build

[andrewB]

this is the recipe for my stroker build. let me know if yall would do something different. or if anything is wrong. also i dont really wanna deck the block unless i have to, and what cam, springs, and valves do yall recommend. i usually am in more mud than trails or rocks so it see's higher rpms than most people.

4.2 4wt crankshaft
Kb ic944 .030 pistons 9.6 cr
stock 4.0 rods.
melling high volume oil pump
.043 head gasket
24lb ford injectors

[GoMopar440]

I would also add:
*new cam & lifters
*new double roller timing set

For the cam in your case I'd probably look at some of the aftermarket options. My rig is a DD more than a toy, so I'm sticking with an OEM replacement to keep it reasonable for pump fuel on the street. If your going to be revving it out like you say, there are much better choices than the OEM profile.

On the topic of breathing, you'll definately want to consider a bored or larger aftermarket throttle body. The OEM TB can be easily bored out to 60mm without having to change anything else. I've heard of people doing this mod with a dremel, but I prefer to use a lathe. If you modify one to larger than 60mm, you'll need to get a bigger butterfly to match. There's quite a few larger aftermarket options here as well, but the cost goes up accordingly.

The double roller timing set is a must-have IMHO. As long as you're taking the engine all the way down, it should be considered a consumable item (they wear out). It's not very easy to get to after the engine is assembled and back in the Jeep.

The oil pump mounting area of the block has been to known to have some machining flaws on some years. Double check that the oil pump sits completely flush to the block before bolting it up. If not the bottom of the oil pump can be ground or filed down for clearance on the edge where it interferes. Don't go crazy with it, just enough to allow it to sit flat.

For the head, rods and crank I'd also consider it mandatory at a minimum to get them Magnafluxed to check for cracks (especially the 99-02 heads), the rods resized and weight matched (rods & pistons) and the bearing journals ground and/or polished as needed. I'd also have the machine shop check the valves to make sure they're still in good shape.

Since you won't be decking the block just make sure to check that the deck surface (and head surface for that matter) is flat so you don't have any head gasket issues.

[Retlaw01XJ]

Don't know how KB came up with their 9.6 CR for the forged pistons, but I cut my 2001 block 0.020" to end up with only 9.2 CR.
Take measurements and do the math before you decide to cut the deck or not.

[Cheromaniac]

Don't know how KB came up with their 9.6 CR for the forged pistons, but I cut my 2001 block 0.020" to end up with only 9.2 CR. Take measurements and do the math before you decide to cut the deck or not.

Given the variance in head cc and block deck height of production engines, it's definitely a good idea to cc the combustion chambers and measure the deck clearance after a mock-up bottom end build so you'll know where you're starting from before you have either the head or the block shaved.