Stroker with 7k has blow by.....

[AlexTJ]

It appears that my second stroker with about 7k on it is experiencing too much blow by.

Specs are in my project page http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... 874#p18194 which mentions later that I have moly rings.

It has been using a quart of oil every four/five hundred miles or so. No leaks, no exhaust smoke that I've noticed. I thought it might go away after the engine broke in, but it hasn't.

With the engine running, warm, I pulled the ccv valve out of its grommet and took off the oil cap. I gave the engine a rev and visible but whispy smoke came out of the oil cap hole and continued to do so at idle but to a lesser extent.

I put my heart and soul into this engine last summer...

What do you guys think I could be looking at?

[SilverXJ]

You are using the stock rockers and valve cover, correct?

On the valve cover, you have the elbow with the small orifice on the rear going to the intake manifold, and the open one on the front to the air tube?

What oil have you been using?

[AlexTJ]

You are using the stock rockers and valve cover, correct?

On the valve cover, you have the elbow with the small orifice on the rear going to the intake manifold, and the open one on the front to the air tube?

What oil have you been using?

Correct, valve cover is stock. Can't remember if it is a replacement though. It would be an Oreilly's part if it isn't the original.

I did the cam break-in (both times) with VR1 10w30 and GM EOS. I have since ran 10w30 VR1 except for about 150 miles before its 3000k oil change I had to run some Mobil 1 High mileage synth with it. I did that because I was on my way to work and discovered it was alomst 1.5 qts low and that was the only SL oil I could find at wallyworld.

I am running the larger, V10 oil filter and a regular Melling oil pump.

I have the small orfice elbow on the back and the elbow with the large opening on the front to the air tube. I took off the hose at the air tube and verified it had suction using a piece of paper. I did the same for the rear elbow only I verified it at the small hole instead of the hose (plus I could hear it suck). When looking for blow by smoke I could only see it when I had the rear elbow out of the grommet. I imagine the vacuum was pulling it all in.

[lafrad]

If it runs alright and doesn't smoke, that means you probably are loosing the oil out the orifice tube, not past the rings... this would suggest the oil control rings are doing fine, but the compression rings are not.

I would do a compression test, then a leakdown test. if there is a cyl that is "off" on compression, or one that "leaks down" a lot, you found your culprit, and will probably have to re-ring that cyl.

[AlexTJ]

If it runs alright and doesn't smoke, that means you probably are loosing the oil out the orifice tube, not past the rings... this would suggest the oil control rings are doing fine, but the compression rings are not.

I would do a compression test, then a leakdown test. if there is a cyl that is "off" on compression, or one that "leaks down" a lot, you found your culprit, and will probably have to re-ring that cyl.

That makes sense to me. I wonder if my machinist honed the bores correctly for moly rings... Although according to hastings, it doesnt matter. What ever the case its leaked this much oil from day one, if not more so.

Ill do a compression test and post the results possibly as soon as wednesday, although it doesn't sound like the most fun way to spend my one night off a week.

[92tank]

why dont you try a different oil. in my stock 4.0 i had bought some castrol gtx (because it was on sale) and it all went out the tail pipe, 12 qts in less than 3,000 miles. so i switched to traveler oil (tractor supply 10w-30 or 10w-40) and it quit smokeing and didnt use but maybe 1/2 qt in 3,000. and thant what iv been running in the stoker since new with no problems (13,000+)

[lafrad]

Oil is a good thing to try.

I've been running Rotella T6 5w-40 full Synth in mine for the last 15K... it uses *NOTHING* over the course of my 7500 mile oil changes. I haven't had to top off the engine a single time after initial fill.

Its a little pricier than regular oil. If you have a couple hundred miles on the engine you should be fine to switch. Its a high ZDDP oil and I use it in all my vehicles with no addtiives.

Wal-mart carries it for $20 / gal. get yourself 2 gallons of it and an FL-1A motorcraft filter (should spin on and give you a full quart of filtering capacity) and see how things go.

[AlexTJ]

Oil is a good thing to try.

I've been running Rotella T6 5w-40 full Synth in mine for the last 15K... it uses *NOTHING* over the course of my 7500 mile oil changes. I haven't had to top off the engine a single time after initial fill.

Its a little pricier than regular oil. If you have a couple hundred miles on the engine you should be fine to switch. Its a high ZDDP oil and I use it in all my vehicles with no addtiives.

Wal-mart carries it for $20 / gal. get yourself 2 gallons of it and an FL-1A motorcraft filter (should spin on and give you a full quart of filtering capacity) and see how things go.

I mean, I could try changing the oil to a different type but I really think I'm using too much for it to be such an easy fix.

I'll know for sure when I do a compression test. Dunno when I'll get around to doing one. Working 72 hours a week, until this nuclear power plant is refueled, kinda sucks all the motivation out of me.

[lafrad]

the leakdown is whats going to really tell you if its a "simple" blowby problem, or a "complex" one.

you are SURE there is a proper baffle in the valvecover, right?