any info you guys could spit my way would mean the world to me. I'm running out of money and patience. 
WOT fuel pressure is 39PSICheromaniac wrote:What's the fuel pressure at higher rpm?
They don't plug anything into my jeep for the test...just a fuel system pressure check, idle/15MPH/25MPR sniff test, and visual. What happens if it does run better if they temp sensor is unplugged? I haven't unplugged the temp sensor but I will try it tonight as well as checking the timing, pretty sure the timing is advanced/retarded because it knocked a little when we first started it, so we adjusted it til it was went away. As of Jan 1, 2009 if you replace the catalytic converter it must be a "california" specific converter...which i've installed. I believe you can get more pressure because the pump is capable of producing more pressure. So by putting a less restrictive fuel pressure regulator on you can get more pressure...kind of like an adjustable fuel pressure regulator the HESCO and Leigh Performance sells. I don't have a shop to tinker with my junk...just my house.4.whoa wrote:Does CA plug anything into your truck being its obdI?
Does it run better with the temp sensor unplugged?
Do you have the cps adjusted to advance the timing?
What's a "california" cat?
If with the regulator vac disconected only showed 39# how can a different reg give you more? I thought that pretty much closed the return line
Can you get to a shop with a check station where you can tinker and see if it helps then and there while you fiddle?
I basically did bump up the static fuel pressure about 9PSI and 8 ontop of that at WOT but it only helped richen the lower RPM's. Replacing the fuel pump is in the works if nothing else works but they are expensive and a bitch to change...you could be right about that fuel pump tho. I have ran this thing dry on fuel multiple times a couple years ago when money was tight.Elowe65 wrote:Try a hose clamp around the return line somewhere under the chassis where the return is rubber hose.
Clamp it down to close the the return and bump up the pressure.
Might not be right but it might help.
Didn't see a replace fuel pump in you list, might try that as it might not be able to hold/maintain the volume
It only knocks at idle or when first started? First started as in the first time you started the new engine or every time? how did you adjust it out? Is it a ping or knock?aaronkeiser wrote: as well as checking the timing, pretty sure the timing is advanced/retarded because it knocked a little when we first started it, so we adjusted it til it was went away.
Well me and my dad broke the cam, took the jeep out for it's madden voyage and realized it "rattled" going up long grades under load. I can't remember what the difference between knock and ping is. So we took the jeep back and retarded the CPS a little and it went away for the most part. It should be noted I had some double platnum plugs in it at first which could have only made my lean condition even worse. It wasn't til I switched to RC9's that the under load knock stopped. I haven't touched the CPS since the first day the new motor was run.SilverXJ wrote:It only knocks at idle or when first started? First started as in the first time you started the new engine or every time? how did you adjust it out? Is it a ping or knock?aaronkeiser wrote: as well as checking the timing, pretty sure the timing is advanced/retarded because it knocked a little when we first started it, so we adjusted it til it was went away.
Maybe so but it shouldn't be "normal" just because it's a jeep.SilverXJ wrote:Ahh... it wasn't really at idle. But that knock scenario makes sense. Heck my stock 4.0L with just a K&N did that.
I know this is an old thread, but I'm having issues passing smog too. I have the Hesco CPS, how do you adjust those again?aaronkeiser wrote:FINALLY PASSED!...Thanks god!...must have been my adjustable CPS. Runs nice and clean now!
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