Paint shop broke one of the captive subframe nuts that holds the right engine mounting bracket to the frame. Here's a picture of the damage. They cut the bolt off at the head and lost the rest of the bolt and nut into the frame. I've been thru the frame rail as best i can with one of those magnets on the end of a flexible tube, and could not locate it.
What are my options for replacing the threads in the frame for that mounting bolt? Would a nutsert work or would i need to have a nut welded into the frame?
Also are there any tricks to getting stuff out of the frame?
Broken captive subframe nut
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- Donator
- Posts: 29
- Joined: February 13th, 2008, 5:47 pm
Broken captive subframe nut
1992 MJ Eliminator
Stroker in progress: Lunati Cam, Diamond Pistons, 4.0L Rods, 4wt Crankshaft 3727 Casting, Clifford Ceramic Coated Header,
99+ Intake, 62mm Throttle Body, 24# Ford Injectors
Stroker in progress: Lunati Cam, Diamond Pistons, 4.0L Rods, 4wt Crankshaft 3727 Casting, Clifford Ceramic Coated Header,
99+ Intake, 62mm Throttle Body, 24# Ford Injectors
- SilverXJ
- Global Moderator
- Posts: 5790
- Joined: February 14th, 2008, 7:14 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
- Vehicle Year: 2000
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Radford, Va
Re: Broken captive subframe nut
Your options aren't good for replacing it. I wouldn't worry about fishing the broken nut out. It might rattle for a bit then find its resting spot, at worse. How much torque to those bolts call for? A nutsert may work as long as they don't take too much torque. One option is to use a self tapping bolt, but I'm not sure that's much better than a nutsert. I'm not sure I would want to cut into the frame there to weld a nut in.
2000 XJ. 4.6L stroker
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
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