Crank Options

[AIbandit]

I found a 12 CW turned .20 .20
and a 4 CW turned .10 .20

Both the same price which should I go for. I understand the benefits of a 12cw but does it out weigh the benefits of being .10


Also I'm running an AW4 for now So I would assume that would eliminate the 12cw momentum benefit to an extent and make it more about balance.

[AIbandit]

Nevermind I went with the .10 .20 4CW

If anyone needs a crank PAW has 2 12 cw's at .20 .20
and 2 4 cw's For 170$ ea


Also got their 258 rods 120$ shotpeened with ARP bolts

[lafrad]

Grinding the crankshaft for cleanup is commonly done and... for any application that we are talking about in ANY of these stroker builds, it does NOT matter one BIT how much was ground off... just get the correct bearings and run it! (even at 0.060" ground off, the rods/pistons will fail LONG before the crankshaft)

Do NOT let the amount ground influence your decision... pick the crankshaft based off its other qualities... (RPM harmonics, manual transmission friendlyness, smooth-running-ness, lol, etc.)

[AIbandit]

I don't want to spin any bearings. Choice has been made

[SilverXJ]

Get the 4 wt.

[AIbandit]

I ordered the 4 wt so I'm glad you agree but I'm curious what led you to that decision aswell.

[IH 392]

The one and only reason to get a 4 wt crank over a 12 is if it is the late one with the short nose, and even then I think I'd go for a 12 wt.

And if the fillet radius was ground correctly the amount removed to regrind is irrelevant!

[lafrad]

there is no more or less likelihood to spin a bearing if you are running over-sized bearings.