Jeep Strokers

Hey guys, long story short, I'm in need of a new 4.0... my blew a rod and grenaded the innards. I have a Gm 350 v8 (carb) sitting in the garage with 14,000 miles on it that is itching to go in, but I am thinking that stroker is the smart of the two choices. I really don't know much about building motors and figured on buying a long block. I've seen the Golen is top of the line, but I think I could do a v8 for less then the cost of that motor. I found these two today, any opinions?


Hammerhead motors?:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0266091713

Or the titan: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TITAN-25 ... 240%3A1318

I guess right now, I am stuck on which route to go. So I figured if you fellas don't care for either one of these motors I might as go the v8 route. I don't care to rebuild the stock motor into a stroker as I really am not to sure on engine building. I can do everything else (v8 swaps). Just not to sure on machining. Please share your thoughts! Thanks!

Brian

From what I've heard, DO NOT buy a Titan. If I were going to buy a stroker, I would buy one from Hesco. They may be more expensive, but as the old saying goes "you get what you pay for". Hesco also comes with a warranty.

Jeep Stroker by HAMMERHEAD wrote:OE Jeep 4.2 rods 6.125" Rods have beed mag tested, reconditioned

If he can't get his facts straight then I would say no.

Jeep Stroker by HAMMERHEAD wrote:Quench Height 0.041"
...
The head gasket is a Mopar performance.

Debatable it's advertised as 0.043" but someone on the board here measured an MLS to be 0.041".

Both of these engines are made by Titan.. why two separate ads with different names, I don't know. Stay far away. Do a search on here and NAXJA for Titan.

I wouldn't touch a Titan stroker with a 10-foot bargepole. Golen's is much better but is it worth the cost of buying and shipping? You're better off buying a good, used junkyard 4.0 and rebuilding that into a stroker. A V8 swap will cost a lot more than you think and a lot of fabrication is needed to make it work, so it's not for the faint-hearted or the light-walleted.

You don't state what year you have, but if the block is shot, you should be able to get a core motor for about $200.00 Get a 92 and up so you will have a HO head.

You should be able to find a local engine shop. Ask around at the local track for a good shop. Check out the recipies at the top of this section. If you keep it simple you should be able to get away for a couple of grand.

I have an '04 with the distributor-less style. I was told the blocks are not interchangeable.

You will need a 2000 and up block.

Also, since you have a WJ or TJ you will need a block from a WJ or TJ. I don't know if you can interchange TJ and WJ blocks though.

On the V8 engine swap you will be spending a crap load of money, fabrication, and wiring. Not to mention your stock gauges will be 100% non functional as they will not work with out the stock computer, and you will most likely not pass inspection.

Alright, well you guys convinced me to build my own stroker. I was looking at the stroker website (posted under recipies) and I'm not sure what I should even think about building. I am going to daily driver this rig and wheel is a few times a year. I guess I am looking for a reliable setup that can be easy to build (find parts for). What recipe should I shoot for? I have an 04 wrangler Rubicon that I will be putting this is. I plan to eventually run 35's with the stock auto trans (42rle). Any opinions would be much appreciated!!

I was thinking of going with this setup thanks to the stroker web page what do you think:

4.6L Low-buck stroker

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods
Speed Pro H825CP +0.030" bore pistons
9.6:1 CR
Comp Cams #68-231-4 206/214 degree camshaft
Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.081" quench height
Ford 24lb/hr injectors with adjustable FPR or MAP adjuster for '87-'95 engines, Ford 24lb/hr injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines
264hp @ 4900rpm, 324lbft @ 3500rpm

Looks good. I would get the block decked to get the quench down to .060" or less. Dunno where that'll put your dcr with that cam but if you're in the low 8s or lower, you'll be good.

What is the DCR for 89 octane roughly 9 or less?

I don't know of a definitive dcr-octane relationship, but have read that 8.5:1 is the edge of pump gas(93 octane). Mine's lightly compression pinging at 8.57:1 with 93(when cold and doesn't change when warmed, so it's not because of heat). Others should post what the lowest octane they can get away with from their dcrs. It seems like 8:1 can get by on midgrade. Others with lower dcrs and higher quenches also have to use higher grades of gas. A good quench(.040"-.060") can prevent pinging, so if I was you, I'd shoot for the good quench and have the pistons dished if the cam is making the dcr too high(cams with less overlap build compression sooner and higher).

I have a 8.25 DCR and .048" quench. If I let it run rich I can run midgrade. Getting closer to 13:1 AFR I need premium.... these were brief findings, as I haven't been able to play with it that much.