Jeep Strokers

If it is thick and grey it should be fine. There is nothing really special about the cam lube other than that it is high in moly. People have used the standard engine assembly lube, grease, oil, stp, etc. I don't know if comp cam still does but they sent their cams with some thin red stuff, much like the engine assembly lube.

As long as you are protected for the first few seconds of engine running you will be fine.

I wouldn't hesitate to use that product on a flat tappet cam, I'd use it on all the bearings too! apply it GENEROUSLY! to the cam lobes and lifter basses!

I used a gang load of it on the rebuild i "attempted" after i threw the rod. The only thing i didnt like about it was that it all collected in the oil pan... I literally scooped it out of the pan when i dropped it to replace the oil pump and rod bearings. (epic fail). Its probably not an issue.. it just weirded me out.

I was crunching numbers again today, and the injectors i have (Accell 150826 26 lb/h @ 43.5 psi) will flow around 24.6 psi on my 39psi rail....

Do you guys think that 24.5 ish psi is going to cause me to run lean? Do you think i should invest in an Adjustable FPR to get the Injectors pumping at thier rated flow rate?

Thanks for the assistance!

That might be just right. Do you have a wideband?

I dont at the moment. Its on the to do list.. The cost of this whole project has been daunting!

New Pics of stuff:

Pushrod Length Checker, Rocker Shims, Assembly Lube:


COMP Break In Oil:



ZZDPlus Additive:


Power Steering Pump and Bracket:



New TV aka Detent Cable:


Misc. Stuff. Distributer Cap / Rotor, Plugs, Gaskets, New CCV Tubes / Elbows:


Down Pipe aka Front Pipe:

PISTONS!!!!!!!!!!

Looks cool Muad.......

The power steering pulley you're using is the older style that does not have the three holes in it for accessing the pump mounting bolts. While in theory I think a guy could do it with wrenches behind the pulley it would take forever. The new style pulleys for that arrangement have 3 holes in the face so you can use a ratchet. The Dorman part number for the composite pulley is #300-310 and my guy at Napa was able to cross reference that number to a Napa number they had in stock for ... are you ready .... $14.95. Remember the belt routing is different for that arrangement and you will want to rid yourself of the idler pulley on the A/C bracket. I don't think you absolutely have to but it's cleaner with that gone.

K I'm an idiot and was looking at the idler pulley .... that's it I'm goin' to the bar!

Ive been thinking ... and i i have another probably noobish question..

For the first say 1000 miles or so, should i be putting only highway miles on it? Or is DD'ing back and forth to work and running errands ok?



On another note, i sucked it up and purchased an AEM wideband kit for the stroker!

nope. you want all sorts of varied engine environments. just don't idle for extended periods of time (shut the engine off at the starbucks window, etc.)

Also, don't do lots of short trips that don't FULLY warm up the engine. you want it to be 100% hot, with the oil at its hottest running temp, on every trip. this boils off any light vapors in the crankcase and saves bearings/cams/etc.

Don't use cruise on the freeway, and if you have a manual, do some engine braking after the first 100 miles... get the rings to set up properly in both directions.

once assembled, I always let my engine warm up to 100% operating temp a single time, then drain and change out the "first fill" oil IMMEDIATELY when its at 200*, and pour a sacrifical 0w-20 quart of oil through while the oil drain plug is out. new filter, new oil, break in ZDDP, and then do the 1000 mile deal on that first oil fill. I usually change the filter at 300 and 600 miles, just topping off the engine.

been pretty successful on all my engines this way. my current 4.6L doesn't burn a single drop of oil. ever. 6000 miles on this last oil change and the oil looks and feels good still, and its still just a mm below the "max full" line that I left it at when I changed the oil last.

I finally updated the main post with the updated parts list and prices... now im officially over $5000 Seems like a lot of damn money for this Jeep...

Anyway tons more pics...

New 02 Bung:


AEM UEGO


Block



Motor Mounts


Valve Cover and Bolt Grommets






Gauge Pod


Misc Painted Parts

Got the block on the stand today!

PICS:

I got some assembly done today.

Ring gaps are between .014 and .016

Main Bearings are .0015 evenly on all 7.

Crank end play is .004

I also got 1 piston in the hole tonight but then i decided to call it a day and came in. Hoping to get the rest of the pistons in tomorrow and the cam.

Pics so far:

Looks good.. but I want my valve cover back. BTW, the stuff shipped Tuesday.