Exos's build

[Exos]

I've been on vacation, just came back. Block and head still in the shop.

I was wondering about rockers : Should I buy the non-adjustable Harland Sharp, or the adjustable ones? What are the advantages of buying adjustable? Can you use stock length pushrods with the adjustable rockers?

[SilverXJ]

It depends on what push rods you can use. Ideal you want to turn the adjuster off its seat as little as possible. My stock rods were to long and starer to preload the lifter before I torqued the rocker down. Adjustable make adjusting preload so easy.

[Exos]

So you're saying that even with the adjustable ones, you had to buy custom length pushrods?

[SilverXJ]

It depends. You want the longest push rod that the rocker can accommodate so the adjuster won't move that much. However, for the rockers that have the adjuster on top of the push rod this isn't as significant and if you want to save a few bucks and use a push rod shorter then idea and push the adjuster out a bit more you will be fine.

[Exos]

I went ahead and ordered the HS adjustable roller rockers tonight. I guess I'll test with old stock pushrods when I'm ready, or with a test pushrod.

[Exos]

Got the HS adjustables today. Man, they look good!!!

On the other hand, I did not get any instructions with them... is this normal? Anyone has them?

[Exos]

I got this From Harland Sharp; does it look good to you? 1 turn maximum before zero lash, and then 1/2 turn for preload? :

First you need to make sure you have the proper length pushrods to be used with these rockers. You can check this by putting 2 pushrods into cylinder # 1, make sure it’s at TDC. Then take a pair of rockers that have the adjusting screws all the way installed, and bolt them down to the cylinder head. Torque the bolts to 25 ft. lbs. Now you should only be able to tighten the adjuster 1 full turn before you get to zero lash, the point when the pushrod stops wiggling up and down. If your pushrods are the correct length you can proceed to install the rest of the rockers.



With the rocker bolted on to cylinder #1 and the adjusters are at the zero lash point, you want to adjust the adjuster ½ turn to preload the lifter. Once this is completed you can move to the next cylinder that’s at TDC and proceed to install the rockers the same way. Do this procedure for all 6 cylinders and your installation is complete.



We do recommend soaking the rockers in a oil that has a high level of zinc, this will provide the rockers with ample lubrication for the break in process. I hope this get you started and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks

[SilverXJ]

IIRC stock rocker bolts spec is 21 ft lbs. On out application push rod length isn't that important on the adjustable rockers like HS (adjuster over teh push rod). As long as it is close. What they said is right and will give you about .020" of preload (1/2 turn).

[Exos]

I made my mind about cam choice : I'll be running OEM cam, post-renix. Reliability should not be a problem, springs will be stock and cheaper with less pressure. I may loose a little power but I don't mind that much, I'm not starting a Jeep racer career...

I now need to make my mind on lifters....

[Exos]

....plus : it makes my DCR right at 8, where I want it. Any thaughts on that choice or on lifters? I'm hesitating between OEM lifters, Mopar performance or Crower cam savers.

[SilverXJ]

If you want cam savers I would groove the block over using them. Mopar lifters are probably hard to find and most likely made by someone else for Mopar. I wouldn't go OEM. Don't know if you saw this: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... f=5&t=1262

[Exos]

I had a call from the machine shop today : block and head are ready. Now, I may win the most expensive bill with this one. 1250$ in all.... (canadian dollars)

Here's what was done and what parts were ordered by machine shop :

-chemical bath for block and head
-shot peening for rods, sandblast for block and head
-resizing of the rods for ARP bolts (already had bought them)
-press pistons on rods
-bore cylinders to 0.060 over and hone
-line bore and hone
-deck block to zero
-press in camshaft bearings
-shaving of the head for flatness (don't know yet how much was removed)
-3 angles valve job
-press in brass freeze plugs
-complete set of stock valves
-set of ARP head studs and nuts
-set of ARP main caps bolts

I will get it tomorrow afternoon. I'll post pics soon.

[Exos]

Got it, looks very cool all sandblasted and the brass freeze plugs, and all...

I have a BIG question though... What size of the engine must the quench pads on the pistons be? The instructions from KB said quench pad towards the cam, but right now, the squirt holes in the rods and the quench pads are opposite. PLEASE tell me that my rods and pistons are fitted OK....!!!!!!!

[Flash]

Got it, looks very cool all sandblasted and the brass freeze plugs, and all...

I have a BIG question though... What size of the engine must the quench pads on the pistons be? The instructions from KB said quench pad towards the cam, but right now, the squirt holes in the rods and the quench pads are opposite. PLEASE tell me that my rods and pistons are fitted OK....!!!!!!!

What are you considering the quench pad? the bowl or the deck surface of the piston.
How about a picture.

[Exos]

The deck surface of the piston. Sorry, I have no pics for now, the engine is at my work.