Jeep Strokers

Stock pushrods will be fine is all else is stock. I would just check the preload to verify it is in spec.

SilverXJ wrote:Stock pushrods will be fine is all else is stock. I would just check the preload to verify it is in spec.

Thank you,i appreciate it.

gilly102ci wrote:I just hate spending that much cash right now because me and my wife are trying to adopt a little girl we have had for 2 years and that will probably empty my wallet.

That's understandable but since you plan to keep the Jeep long term, it's better if you empty your wallet only once and not have to do it again later.
Otherwise if the extra cost of buying a 258 crank, IC944 pistons, and oversize injectors is a big issue, then just settle for a stock rebuild with the minimum cylinder overbore required and get a set of cheaper Speed Pro H825CP pistons instead.
All other costs will be the same regardless of whether you do a stock rebuild or a stroker.

SilverXJ wrote:Stock pushrods will be fine is all else is stock. I would just check the preload to verify it is in spec.

If you deck the block or mill the head you will need shorter pushrods correct? I did neither an my pushrods were too long, not sure if it was from the valve work or if they were that way stock. I got new ones for an Olds that are 0.090" shorter and they gave me ~0.030" into the lifter the stock nearly bottomed the lifters out.

I have to say a few things that I feel really matter. First, Never remove your radiator cap when your truck is running/hot. It is under pressure and it will always shoot out. This does not mean that you have a blown head gasket.
Oil is always black = ok.
Also, Water is a natural by product of combustion and it is normal to drip water from your tail pipe...Water is OK, coolant is NOT. Coolant smells sweet when it burns.
I dont necessarily believe your head gasket is blown. If it were I think you would be showing more than just a miss at idle. And not all 0331 heads are as bad as every one says. I have over 212,000 miles on my 0331 (also in a 2000 WJ) head and I even over heated once pretty bad. I am also looking for a TUPY head but why fix it if its not broken?
Clegg seems to have a good kit, but paying that much for a 258 crank and rods is "over the line." I was able to find 2 complete 258 motors and I payed 50.00 USD for one and 200. USD for the other...from Craigslist. Then I sold the rest of the unused parts and recouped some of the cost.
After you have those parts you are looking for pistons; and unless you are pushing boost you don't need anything forged. I spent 101 USD on my pistons from Summit racing. After Pistons you will need to find a good cam. Look at Clegg's stage 1 kit. It includes a cam, lifters, springs, push rods, a timing kit, and everything else for the top end.
You can do all of this for around 1000 USD. Or spend 2,100 USD on the Clegg kit. Save your money for that sweet scooter

RenoF250 wrote:

SilverXJ wrote:Stock pushrods will be fine is all else is stock. I would just check the preload to verify it is in spec.

If you deck the block or mill the head you will need shorter pushrods correct? I did neither an my pushrods were too long, not sure if it was from the valve work or if they were that way stock. I got new ones for an Olds that are 0.090" shorter and they gave me ~0.030" into the lifter the stock nearly bottomed the lifters out.

I would take it one step further Reno, I'd say, If you Deck your block, Mill your head, or regrind/replace your valve seats you will need new push rods or at least to check them for length. I think all of these geometrical changes affect push rod length.