Help with Golen 4.6L engine knock

[ossme]

BTW, I'm also planning to buy an Air Fuel Mixture Gauge. Do guys think that this is needed ??

I was interested in this one:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AVM-30-4100/
Have any one tried it ??

[SilverXJ]

The AEM and tuning is useless without a wideband O2 gauge. You need to see the AFR to see what the engine is doing to make changes. How are you doing that now with the AEM? If you keep pushing the engine when it is having problems after 3000 rpm w/o knowing what it is doing you may damage the engine.

As for cooling, try putting the stock pump back in.

[ossme]

The AEM and tuning is useless without a wideband O2 gauge. You need to see the AFR to see what the engine is doing to make changes. How are you doing that now with the AEM? If you keep pushing the engine when it is having problems after 3000 rpm w/o knowing what it is doing you may damage the engine.

As for cooling, try putting the stock pump back in.

Thanks Silver,

I totally agree with your statement. I wasn't the one who programed the AEM. But I'm pretty damn sure right now that the guys who did had no idea what so ever about what they were doing!

The truck is parked right now. I'm not going to move it until I receive the wideband o2 gauge. I have lots of other stuff and mod to do and install anyway !

I kept reading stuff yesterday about the strokers, Engine management systems, wideband sensors, and wiring. I still have too much to learn.

[ossme]

Some updates.

Here are the results of the fuel pressure test:


Once in Operation Temperature, the truck stays between 48 and 49PSI.
The gauge needle is very stable.
When turned of, the pressure almost imediatly goes down to 45 PSI. It took 7 minutes for the pressure to go down from 45 PSI to 20 PSI.

So, Can we now eliminate any fuel pressure problems ??

[yuppiexj]

So, Can we now eliminate any fuel pressure problems ??

Most of them yes...

Go for a WOT run with the gauge and see if the pressure drops below (random number pulled outta my butt) 30PSI at High RPM at WOT.

It my keep ~48PSI at idle (minimal fuel flow) but drop greatly when demand rises.
If it does, replace the fuel filter, check for crimped fuel lines, etc.
If the PSI stay nice and high you're good to go in the fuel flow and fuel pressure department.

Since you already have the gauge it only costs you the fuel you burn to run around the block.

I recommend have the passenger watch the gauge while the driver watches the road.

[ossme]

Thanks for the replay ..

It will be very difficult to do this while the car is moving. the gauge hose is very short and thick. It will be very difficult to close the hood and also very difficult for the passenger to read the gauge (if he ever was able to do so).

Can I do this while the car is stationary ??

[cruiser54]

I wonder if you could get an extension for the hose somewhere. I had to do this same thing on a supercharged Miata. The hose was long enough to reach out the back edge of the hood and be ziptied to the wiper blade.

[Cheromaniac]

Hi Osama,

Thanks for driving all the way from Abu Dhabi to my place last Friday so I could take a look at your truck. My observations are:

1. The tuner has f***ed up your AEM tune big time and whoever did the wiring for your PCM deserves to be shot. With the AEM tune the engine runs like shit at higher rpm, takes more cranking to start, and bogs down off-idle when you blip the throttle.
2. Your engine starts and runs much better with the stock PCM tune but the only snag is that it pings when it gets over 220*F even with premium fuel plus octane booster.
3. Golen must have used CompCams valve springs as well as the CompCams 68-235-4 cam in their stroker 'cause it clatters like a tractor engine at idle. Good thing the clatter disappears when you drive off and the hot oil pressures are good.
4. There's nothing wrong with your cooling system and swapping/changing parts won't help anything.
5. The reason why your engine's pinging is because it's running too hot. My guess is that the engine's running lean at low rpm with the stock PCM tune since that's where the ping occurs (around 1500-2000rpm). This isn't helped by the fact that we've been having ambient temps. of 110+*F. I forgot to ask you what spark plugs you're using but you could try a set of colder plugs like the Champion RC9LYC.
6. Your winch is blocking half of the radiator airflow but you said the engine still ran hot even without the winch. Try removing it and see.
7. The 49psi fuel pressure is right on the money and the low rpm ping won't be due to a bad fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter, but you could try changing the latter anyway if it's old.
8. Your cold air intake is actually a hot air intake with the filter sucking in hot underhood air (might be 180+*F at this time of year) because the "heatshield" that came with your CAI is useless. If you still have the stock air intake assembly as a spare, try swapping it back in. The ambient air that it'll inhale will still be hot (110+*F) but that's a lot better than having the engine inhale air that's at 180+*F.
9. Insulating the underside of the intake manifold with a Thermotec heat blanket (like I did) will block most of the radiant heat from the header and keep the manifold cooler.
10. Your hood vents look great and are positioned exactly in the right place near the front of the hood.

[ossme]

Hi Osama,

Thanks for driving all the way from Abu Dhabi to my place last Friday so I could take a look at your truck. My observations are:

Thank you for taking some of your time to look at my truck in this blazing heat. others would of simply preferred watching TV with a nice icy drink instead!

1. The tuner has f***ed up your AEM tune big time and whoever did the wiring for your PCM deserves to be shot. With the AEM tune the engine runs like shit at higher rpm, takes more cranking to start, and bogs down off-idle when you blip the throttle.

Unfortunately, this is very true. I was under the impression that he was a reputable tuner. I should of known better not to entrust any one from Mussfah on my truck.
I'm gathering some parts, and I will be removing the AEM and rewiring the PCM once I get the ping and heat fixed.

2. Your engine starts and runs much better with the stock PCM tune but the only snag is that it pings when it gets over 220*F even with premium fuel plus octane booster.

True, It rives better and pulls stronger without the AEM crap.

3. Golen must have used CompCams valve springs as well as the CompCams 68-235-4 cam in their stroker 'cause it clatters like a tractor engine at idle. Good thing the clatter disappears when you drive off and the hot oil pressures are good.

So, should I stop worrying about it or should investigate it more ?

4. There's nothing wrong with your cooling system and swapping/changing parts won't help anything.

Thank god, at least I have something to strike out of my list !

5. The reason why your engine's pinging is because it's running too hot. My guess is that the engine's running lean at low rpm with the stock PCM tune since that's where the ping occurs (around 1500-2000rpm). This isn't helped by the fact that we've been having ambient temps. of 110+*F. I forgot to ask you what spark plugs you're using but you could try a set of colder plugs like the Champion RC9LYC.

Hopefully, We will find out soon enough. Almost all of the AFR gauge items are here. I just need to buy some little stuff and wiring from the local shops..

Regarding the spark plugs, I'm Currently using Champion RC9YC4 and I was using Mopar ones before.

[ossme]

6. Your winch is blocking half of the radiator airflow but you said the engine still ran hot even without the winch. Try removing it and see.

I will finish the AFR first and then I will look into this.

7. The 49psi fuel pressure is right on the money and the low rpm ping won't be due to a bad fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter, but you could try changing the latter anyway if it's old.

So, I don't need to do a WOT Test ?

8. Your cold air intake is actually a hot air intake with the filter sucking in hot underhood air (might be 180+*F at this time of year) because the "heatshield" that came with your CAI is useless. If you still have the stock air intake assembly as a spare, try swapping it back in. The ambient air that it'll inhale will still be hot (110+*F) but that's a lot better than having the engine inhale air that's at 180+*F.

I got it with the car and I don't have the original.

I'm think about Spectra Performance Cold Air Intake.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/17006_7000_07.htm

Do you think that it is a good idea ??

My second option will be using a Volant air intake and put a heat shield on the air filter box.

9. Insulating the underside of the intake manifold with a Thermotec heat blanket (like I did) will block most of the radiant heat from the header and keep the manifold cooler.

Thanks, I will look into that ..

10. Your hood vents look great and are positioned exactly in the right place near the front of the hood.

Thanks ! It is an AEV Highline Heat reduction hood.

[ossme]

This is what I'm planning to do for the AFR

[Cheromaniac]

Thank you for taking some of your time to look at my truck in this blazing heat. others would of simply preferred watching TV with a nice icy drink instead!

I had plenty of time to do that after you left.

So, should I stop worrying about it or should investigate it more ?

Since your valvetrain has been noisy from the outset and the sound hasn't changed, I don't think you need to worry about it. Your ears have probably got used to it by now.

Regarding the spark plugs, I'm Currently using Champion RC9YC4 and I was using Mopar ones before.

Those Champions are the same heat range as the ones I'd already suggested so leave them in.

So, I don't need to do a WOT Test ?

It's better if you do that anyway so we'll know for sure if your engine's starving for fuel at high rpm.

I'm think about Spectra Performance Cold Air Intake.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/17006_7000_07.htm

Do you think that it is a good idea ??

No, don't waste your money on another cold air intake. Just improve the heatshield you have on your existing CAI.

[ossme]

OK then, I will try to build a heat sheild box around my air filter. Although, it would of been nice to get red of it. I could of used the space for something else !

[ossme]

OK guys,

Sorry for not updating. I started working on the Project again.

I swapped the Fuel Pump to a Newer unit. I will be redoing the Fuel Pressure test.

I Will also try to LOG the AFR on the weekend.

When I'm accelerating, I'm hearing a hissing noise. I'm using K&N Filter. I don't know if this is normal for a stroker or not. But it makes me suspect a Vacuum leak. I did a Vacuum test but couldn't find anything. When spraying the Carburetor cleaner on the Intake Filter the engine chocks. I will redo it again on the weekend.

Also, once worm, the engine have a problem revving above 4100rpm.

[superstingray77]

The JTEC PCM requires all 02 sensors to be connected or the main pre-cat ones will not function. The PCM will just go to open loop and dump fuel at idle/low RPM. Connect all the sensors properly even if the rear one is not installed into the pipe just hose clamp it to the exhaust pipe to keep it warm for now but make certain its in the circuit.

What is the Static Compression on this engine?
What are the cam specs? duration and lobe centers? For example if the engine is 10:1 with a small cam and low duration the DCR is going to be really high and timing will need to be pulled way back to avoid detonation. I would start with no more than 26 deg max then work your way back up as it permits. I think you can do that with the FIC no?

Verify Fuel pressure as you mentioned.

MAP Sensor must be good and ZERO vaccum leaks anyplace on the truck they will wreak havoc with fueling.

What is the idle vac with a guage on the manifold? Not scanner HG but with a manual vac gauge.

Any codes other than your 02 code?