Jeep Strokers

As Silver said the single row chains don't have a very good track record, your used one however is a "LINK" type, NOT a single row, the link or "silent" type are fairly durable, proof is that Jeep went BACK to them after using the single row chains!

Dropped off the block and massive pile of parts at the machine shop. Kinda disappointed that they haven't machined the head yet, which was supposed to be started last week. And so begins the waiting game.

Has anyone ever used a block heater (freeze plug type) with a stroker? I wonder if that would help during the break in period since I don't have a garage.

Antifreeze2 wrote: Has anyone ever used a block heater (freeze plug type) with a stroker? I wonder if that would help during the break in period since I don't have a garage.

When you are ready to add antifreeze, use HOT water to help bring the engine metal temp up.

I like that idea, but I was referring to after the cam break in. It's winter-ish and I don't use my Jeep everyday. I usually take my motorcycle or the bus to school/work. Would a block heater help with the cold starts? Do we have a detailed write up on engine break in? Because the freeze plugs are under the header, does the 2" in the back of the block make a suitable choice?

Putting up a comparison of old and new valve stuffs

Old rocker (stamped metal portion since it's the only thing moving) 135g
New stainless roller--I didn't want to break something taking it apart.
Crower 73648

Old intake valve 1.920" x 4.92": 111g
New intake valve 2.020" x 4.93": 111g
10716EPN undercut & swirl polished

Old exhaust valve 1.500" x 4.95": 89g
New exhaust valve 1.620" x 4.93": 85.5g
10715EPN undercut & swirl polished

Old spring .840"/.940" ID: 69g
New spring .650"/.738" ID: 47.5g
Comp 26125

Old retainer .826"/1.146":16.5g
New retainer .630"/.890": 9g
Mopar 53021676ab

Same keeper : 3g/pair

I hope that the mildly lighter valvetrain will work well with 110# closed/236# open on a Comp 68-231-4

Antifreeze2 wrote:I hope that the mildly lighter valvetrain will work well with 110# closed/236# open on a Comp 68-231-4

Those spring pressures should be fine.

A block heater is always a good idea if you live in a cold climate. I put mine in the front most driver side freeze plug. My logic was that if it went bad it would be the easiest to get to.

Which plug are you talking about?

The plug on the firewall side of the block, but not the cam plug obviously. Speaking of cams, I just got it in today and it looks like there's an extra lobe.

There is no room to put a block heater and wiring on the back side of the block if you plan on hooking up to a transmission .

That extra lobe is for a mechanical fuel pump. From the old 4.2L. You will also notice the lobes are narrower.

Yea, I was pretty shocked by the lobe difference. .50" compared to .67" when the lifters are .907". All I can say is--I hope it all works out.

I don't think its a problem. Look at the old pattern and how little the lifter actually touches until it gets to the nose. The wide lifters help in increasing the lobe opening rate w/o the lifter edge hitting the lobe.

Just got some lovely news from the machine shop. They cut the seats for the valves, but it didn't sink the valves in at all. In fact, they stick out a bit because of their large size. What this means to me, is that I now have less valve stem left over for install height. Even cutting the spring pocket didn't give me enough. I was told to find valves that are .150 to .200 longer to accept the springs and give them room to shim. I am looking into 351 valves, among others, but the 11/32 valve stem sounds too big, as well as too much weight for what I am trying to achieve. This would also mean new valve locks and retainers. Back to the drawing board.

The problem with the Hemi retainers ended up being that they sit too low on the valve. Machinist found that he could turn the inside diameter of the stock retainers to fit the spring. Block is bored, waiting on a test assembly to deck for 0 clearance. Gonna keep waiting.

Swung by the machine shop to drop off some cash. Block looks really clean They took .035" off the top for 0 deck and found a .015" difference between the longest and shortest rod. Too late at this point to be picky. .058" quench should still be fine, right?

Sorry for the blurry pics.

The factory rods aren't that consistent. I have a .0043" (max) difference on mine.

Long time since my last post. Machinist has been busy and I regret telling them to have my project on the back burner. I need the Jeep running within 2 weeks, so I checked in and the machinist assured me it could be done. The short block is assembled, head doesn't have the rockers on it yet, and push rods are not yet measured. I may order a Hesco spacer kit just to be safe in case I end up needing it. Hopefully you hear from me in 2 weeks.

I don't think I mentioned it-- I picked up some 703 injectors, pulled the filters, am going to clean them and rebuild. Also got a shiny knock-off header on Ebay for $150. If time wasn't an issue, I'd polish the intake manifold runners a bit and have it ceramic coated, along with the header. I think I'll have the first stroker with a BAIID installed.