Jeep Strokers

I think my Comp Cam failure was a fluke. I have used Comps in the past and never had a problem with them. I still don't know why it failed though. If you are referencing my Isky cam with the machining errors that was my fault as I installed the timing gears wrong.. don't know how though as it looked the same after I rotated the cam gear one chain link.

SilverXJ wrote: If you are referencing my Isky cam with the machining errors that was my fault as I installed the timing gears wrong..

I was talking in general. You never know how experienced is a cam machinist, but with a known manufacturer, it's a pretty sure bet. And the price for a cam regrind is almost the same as a brand new one, that's why I choose a new cam.

All I am missing now is an oil pump, water pump, clutch kit and a few other small items. I'm still undecided about buying headers and catback now, or add them later.

Anyway, the engine should be installed by Halloween.. It will have cost much more than any "ready build" stroker, but it will be "my engine"

The block is back on the engine stand, and freshly painted. Head is same color. I used POR15 primer and engine enamel. The pan is also primed with POR15, and the paint is aircraft engine enamel, "olds continental gold" is the color. The valve cover is gonna be black, once I'm finished welding it back (I still have to find two used cover).



I ordered the springs, retainers, locks, 0.043 gasket, camshaft bolt and spring and flywheel attach pkg. I also got the oil pump and hi-flow water pump (Prestone brand). All I am missing now is the clutch kit, intake/exhaust hardware and a new drivebelt, modified valve cover and maybe a new timing cover. I also bid on a used Banks header that I'm gonna most likely win.

I checked my crank bearings clearances and they all are between 0.0015 and 0.0020, so I was very happy with that (the block was line bored). The crank and rear seal are now in place and main studs torqued. The machine shop told me ARP don't make main studs for the AMC I6, so they ordered me some big block Chevy studs. The caps were torqued to 130 ft/lb in three steps, using 30 weight engine oil on the studs.

I've run into a problem a few days ago : I broke an ARP rod bolt..... I think my torque wrench is sometimes "skipping", and won't click.

Anyway, I had to order another set of bolts, and while at it, I ordered some ARP assembly lubricant too, wich I did not have. So I will be re-torquing my mains with it, and redo the rods correctly. I'll be using another torque wrench from my workplace, wich is calibrated.

I bought a Pacesetter header, wich is on is way, and I recently received a clutch kit from phoenix friction.

I also got my Comp Cam 68-232-4, but the lifters were missing.... I think they got lost at the border, at customs : the box has been opened by them. I filed a complaint to the seller, and he filed a complaint to the USPS... I know it's gonna take a long time, so to my loss, I ordered another set of lifters directly from Comp.

Exos wrote:I've run into a problem a few days ago : I broke an ARP rod bolt..... I think my torque wrench is sometimes "skipping", and won't click.

Anyway, I had to order another set of bolts, and while at it, I ordered some ARP assembly lubricant too, wich I did not have. So I will be re-torquing my mains with it, and redo the rods correctly. I'll be using another torque wrench from my workplace, wich is calibrated.

Yeah make sure you double check the torque wrench. I accidentally broke two bolts on Gradons rods when we built his stroker last spring. Luckily we had spares to replace.

So far your project is looking good. Keep up the good work.

Hi,

I have to sets of valve stem seals from Felpro gasket set (6 each, in two bags) with different numbers on the bags. The only difference I see is the color of the metal collar. Do you think they're all the same, or 6 for intake and 6 for exhaust?

*: some collars are silvers, and others are kinda bronze.

One set for exhaust one for intake. Last time I saw a set like that it had which was which on the bags.

That's my problem : nothing to identify them, not on the bag, nor on the seals themselves. There are numbers on the bags : 6-70816 and 6-70819. That's it.

The seals are all black. The "bronze" metal collars look like they may have been heat treated. On the box, it says that the set includes Viton seals.

I believe 70819 is the exhaust. From this: http://groomlakelabs.com/gallery/main.p ... alNumber=2

Thanks SilverXJ!!!! You rock!

I installed the head today, and had a little problem with the head studs. They were a little bit too long on the cam side. Those are ARP head studs, for the AMC 258. I'm not sure if they make a kit for the 242, but that's what my machinist ordered and gave me. I fixed it by adding 4 washers under the ARP washer, on each stud (right side, or cam side). The washers I added are aviation grade, and exact same diameters. Anyone sees a problem with this?

I did not CC the combustion chambers, and I won't. I don't think it will matter that much, and the chambers should be pretty close one to another. I also installed the timing set. Not sure yet if I will be degreeing the cam (Comp 232-4).

Oh, and also, my crank endplay is between 0.0045 and 0.0050. It's on the high side, but still within specs. I hope it will stay that way. The rod side clearances turned out ok too.

Exos wrote:I installed the head today, and had a little problem with the head studs. They were a little bit too long on the cam side. Those are ARP head studs, for the AMC 258. I'm not sure if they make a kit for the 242, but that's what my machinist ordered and gave me. I fixed it by adding 4 washers under the ARP washer, on each stud (right side, or cam side). The washers I added are aviation grade, and exact same diameters. Anyone sees a problem with this?

I don't see a problem with using high quality washers as long as they hold up to the 110 ft.lbs of torque and don't shift. IIRC I don't think ARP actually makes a kit for the 4.0L and I think Hesco's stud kit is a conglomeration of other kits.

I did not CC the combustion chambers, and I won't. I don't think it will matter that much, and the chambers should be pretty close one to another.

Unless you tried to open up teh chambers a whole lot for some reason you should be fine with our cc'ing.

I also installed the timing set. Not sure yet if I will be degreeing the cam (Comp 232-4).

Personally I think you should degree it in. It might take an hour or so more of time, but if you don't you run the risk of it being off. When I installed my Isky cam I did it straight up, dot to dot and it was a full 13* off. I wouldn't have found that other wise.

Oh, and also, my crank endplay is between 0.0045 and 0.0050. It's on the high side, but still within specs. I hope it will stay that way. The rod side clearances turned out ok too.

That should be fine unless you have some odd thing going on like I do where the engine eats the thrust bearings.

I Just ordered some Comp Magnum chromoly pushrods, 9.600 long. I tried one set of Harland Sharp adjustables on the head, and I was already beyond zero lash when I torqued it down. I should have ordered the pushrods sooner.... I have to wait at least one week now. In the meantime, I'll degree my cam, install the timing cover, the thermostat housing and the oil pan. I have pictures, but I forgot my camera at work.

Somebody is making me a taller valve cover with 2 aluminium ones. It's not ready yet, but it should be soon, I hope.

I read Comp, and others instructions on how to degree a cam. I found out that you need either a solid lifter or a washer on top of an hydraulic lifter so it won't compress when you check the timing. My problem is 1) I don't have a solid lifter and 2) my head is already installed and I don't want to take it off.

So, is there another way I can degree my cam without a solid lifter and without removing the head?

Here are the latest pics :

First, the washers I had to install under the ARP bolt and washer



Rockers installed to check pushrod length