Oil?
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Oil?
Anyone that has reciently built a Jeep stroker... What type of oil/additive has been used for break in and after break in? I see that Valvoline Vr1 has 1200 zinc and 1300 phos. It's NOT synthetic and comes in 10w30. Anyone use VR1?
- seanyb505
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Re: Oil?
I think the reason I didnt use that is because i couldnt find it locally without ordering or doing some machine shopping and calling around. Seems like a good oil, but it might be expensive.
My machinist recommended I use Non-detergent 30w oil for break-in. For the cam bearing I used GM EOS (probly not the same as the old stuff) and Shell ND 30w. I dont feel good about having used that combo. Looking back I would have use a higher quality ND break-in oil from a reputable manufacturer and some Comp-cam break in additive.
After some research I came across a speed shop in my area that carries Brad-Penn oil, which I have heard contains all the junk we need. Im using BP Racing 10w30, but right now I have random drops in oil pressure which may or may not be related. This is only the first time using this grade so I dont know. I would advise using a thicker oil, but still something with the ZDDP.
My machinist recommended I use Non-detergent 30w oil for break-in. For the cam bearing I used GM EOS (probly not the same as the old stuff) and Shell ND 30w. I dont feel good about having used that combo. Looking back I would have use a higher quality ND break-in oil from a reputable manufacturer and some Comp-cam break in additive.
After some research I came across a speed shop in my area that carries Brad-Penn oil, which I have heard contains all the junk we need. Im using BP Racing 10w30, but right now I have random drops in oil pressure which may or may not be related. This is only the first time using this grade so I dont know. I would advise using a thicker oil, but still something with the ZDDP.
Now I can be like all those other awesome people with more than one Jeep in their sig, but now I have to say one of them is sold:(
97 XJ 4.6
90 MJ 4.0 - sold
I want to have as many Jeeps as children. DD, offroader, drag MJ and another one. 4=4
97 XJ 4.6
90 MJ 4.0 - sold
I want to have as many Jeeps as children. DD, offroader, drag MJ and another one. 4=4
- Mgardiner1
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Re: Oil?
I used pennzoil 5w30 with a full bottle of GM EOS for the cam break in, and a few trips around the block. I think dumped that oil and refilled with 5w30 and either half a bottle or another full bottle of GM EOS. I'm going to drain at 500 miles and most likely use the same combo until 2000 miles is reached. I'm not sure what i want to use after that. I like synthetic oils, and i think with the mopar cam/lifters i'll probably go with that.
oletshot wrote:....and silvolites are only cast not hypericantspellits.![]()
- SilverXJ
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Re: Oil?
I used umm.. I can't remember the exact brand, but it comes in a black 1 gallon jug and can be purchased at Advanced Auto. It is a CI-4 specified oil. Along with a bottle of GM EOS or Crane Cam's break in lube. I have used that in the past, but I may go with brad penn 30w with GM EOS for cam break in break in this time, then switch to something else and eventually go with am Amsoil synthetic.
2000 XJ. 4.6L stroker
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00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
- Alex22
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Re: Oil?
I use the brad penn in my stock 4.0 and plan on using it in my stroker (whenever I build it). I haven't noticed any random drops in pressure while driving, but i'm not constantly watching the gague. Normal pressures are 30-40 at an idle and 60psi at anything over 1500rpm.
SilverXJ, There's no reason to run the GM EOS AND the Brad Penn break in oil, it will just cost you more. We use either Brad Penn break in 30W or the Joe Gibbs BR to break in engines with flat tappet cams on the dyno and those oils have been working great.
To the OP. For breaking an engine in you should use a true non detergent break in oil. Then switch over to an oil with the proper levels of ZDDP.
~Alex
SilverXJ, There's no reason to run the GM EOS AND the Brad Penn break in oil, it will just cost you more. We use either Brad Penn break in 30W or the Joe Gibbs BR to break in engines with flat tappet cams on the dyno and those oils have been working great.
To the OP. For breaking an engine in you should use a true non detergent break in oil. Then switch over to an oil with the proper levels of ZDDP.
~Alex
The enemy of good thing is wanting something better.
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Re: Oil?
mopar makes some as does gm...i prefer the gm eos...but the old part number has changed. find a good dealer that is willing and capable of fin ding it. should not be hard. its the best
also...i use rotella oil. it is made with some very good additives. i know the guys who mix it and the other oil brands. its a perk of living in and around houston texas
steve
also...i use rotella oil. it is made with some very good additives. i know the guys who mix it and the other oil brands. its a perk of living in and around houston texas
steve
- Flash
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Re: Oil?
Its E.O.S.gremlinsteve wrote:mopar makes some as does gm...i prefer the gm eos...but the old part number has changed. find a good dealer that is willing and capable of fin ding it. should not be hard. its the best
also...i use rotella oil. it is made with some very good additives. i know the guys who mix it and the other oil brands. its a perk of living in and around houston texas
steve
Assembly Lubricant
#88862586
Flash
89 XJ with 300,000 on the original eng
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Re: Oil?
I've heard that only the label and part number has changed.Alex22 wrote:Anybody know whats different from the GM EOS to the new GM Assembly Lube?![]()
~Alex
something about EPA lawyer types
That is internet speculation, which is generally about as accurate as my weather predictions for Mars.
TurboTom wrote:i will eat my words later if need be.
Proud owner of many stroker parts, that have not yet spontaneously assembled themselves.TurboTom wrote: Not sure of your rules...but you need to start with an engine that works best for the rules and cheat from there!
- Mgardiner1
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Re: Oil?
Alex, if you are refering to the older EOS, i have a few bottles left. However, i think a minor amount of searching on the internet would yield the breakdown of the original GM EOS
oletshot wrote:....and silvolites are only cast not hypericantspellits.![]()
- Alex22
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Re: Oil?
I was looking around for something else on Joe Gibb's website and found this instead.
How long can I leave the BR in my new engine?
Joe Gibbs Racing uses the BR for the first 2 hours on a new or rebuilt engine to break-in the cams and seat the rings. After 2 hours on the dyno, JGR switches to the correct viscosity synthetic oil for that engine build.
From this page:
http://joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcente ... -How-58557
Just passing it along.
I did some searching for a true comparison of the old EOS to its replacement but only found countless threads where people were talking about driving 100 miles to buy the last few bottles of EOS. Maybe I'll try again tomorrow.
~Alex
How long can I leave the BR in my new engine?
Joe Gibbs Racing uses the BR for the first 2 hours on a new or rebuilt engine to break-in the cams and seat the rings. After 2 hours on the dyno, JGR switches to the correct viscosity synthetic oil for that engine build.
From this page:
http://joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcente ... -How-58557
Just passing it along.
I did some searching for a true comparison of the old EOS to its replacement but only found countless threads where people were talking about driving 100 miles to buy the last few bottles of EOS. Maybe I'll try again tomorrow.
~Alex
The enemy of good thing is wanting something better.
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Re: Oil?
so i can use my 15-40 and dump gm-eos in with it? this pertains to break in.
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Re: Oil?
1. GMSPO realigned there marketing. EOS along with many other products are now labeled AC/Delco. Still the same stuff. Only a change in the dye color.
2. Diesel is high in detergents. IMHO anything after CI is too watered down in the ZDDP. SH for Dino oils. Overall good stuff in a gas engine.
3. VR-1 is a ND oil. It also lacks many of the stabilizers and moisture inhibitors of street oil. Not the best choice for a street engine.
4. Brad Penn 20w-50 is the same as Kendall GT-1 20w-50. Same oil, different bottle. Rule does not apply to other weights.
5. In MOST cases a synthetic is no better then a Dino oil. In fact in many cases the Dino is better.
6. Alex is correct in that simply having more ZDDP does not make an oil better. Beware of overly high ZDDP if running a cat.
7. Bob the Oil Guy gets paid a royalty for his information and test`s.
Google ZDDP and you will find plenty of information and links to advanced tech. Sort out the advertising BS and get the facts.
2. Diesel is high in detergents. IMHO anything after CI is too watered down in the ZDDP. SH for Dino oils. Overall good stuff in a gas engine.
3. VR-1 is a ND oil. It also lacks many of the stabilizers and moisture inhibitors of street oil. Not the best choice for a street engine.
4. Brad Penn 20w-50 is the same as Kendall GT-1 20w-50. Same oil, different bottle. Rule does not apply to other weights.
5. In MOST cases a synthetic is no better then a Dino oil. In fact in many cases the Dino is better.
6. Alex is correct in that simply having more ZDDP does not make an oil better. Beware of overly high ZDDP if running a cat.
7. Bob the Oil Guy gets paid a royalty for his information and test`s.
Google ZDDP and you will find plenty of information and links to advanced tech. Sort out the advertising BS and get the facts.
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Re: Oil?
im getting very confused with all the info iv been reading about zinc ppm in oil, and that diesel has detergents and may contain to much zinc? my stroker is going into a 2001 wrangler with cats. i just need some clear straight info
what oil should i use to break in my engine with a crane mild cam? and should i use zddp or gm-eos?
i really appreciate it guys
, im only a few days away from start up, and this is my first build.
thanks again!

i really appreciate it guys

thanks again!
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