New stroker stalls trouble idling

[Jacoby88]

Okay so I just finished my stroker build and have just installed it in my 95 zj.

On initial startup attempt did not start and this was after a bit I realized I was 180 out on the distributor.

After I Set timing with harmonic balancer and timing cover to 0 lined everything up. Still no start but backfire through air intake.

I removed plug 1 and watched until cylinder 1 reached TDC. My harmonic balancer mark was on 16 (retarded 16*) bolted everything up and it fired right up and was running smooth.

After a few minutes of idling I attempted to give it some throttle and it was acting like it was redlining but at 1000-1200 rpm. After giving it throttle it would run very choppy and stall out. After it stalls out it would have a very hard time starting.

My main question is this a timing issue or electrical. I know for a fact my internal timing chains are timed correctly. However I could not get it to be in timed at the 0* mark.

Hope this makes since please any help or info is welcomed

[Cody Brought]

To time the distributor, rotate the harmonic balancer until the notch(timing mark) is on 0. Then put a mark on the distributor just under the cap, slightly to the left of the number one cylinder plug.

Pull the cap and check if your rotor is on or very close to your mark. If it is, your timing is fine. If not, pull the distributor and rotate the rotor clockwise a few degrees, and put it back in. When it engages it will rotate a bit so play with it until its on the mark.

If the engine still has issues, check compression and fuel injectors. Ive had similar symptoms from a failed headgasket.

I hope this helps!

[mpgMike]

Not sure how long you let it idle, but there is a cam break-in routine that is extremely important on a fresh build. If you skipped it, you may have wiped a cam lobe.

[Jacoby88]

In my efforts to time it with the 0 mark I decided to use my old FACTORY distributor assembly and it timed perfectly. I know how to time the distributor correctly and made sure to inspect cylinder #1 at tdc. Ive heard of issues with aftermarket distributors being just barely off when it came to timing and I guess it was that.

In regards of how long I ran it for, it might have been for maybe a grand total of 4-6 minutes with it running 2 or 3 separate times trying to diagnose this.

I found out the reasoning as to why it would idle for a short amount of time and die, turns out it was a bad crank sensor. There is a pretty easy and useful test to perform in checking the cps. after the car stalled out, I had the key set to ignition on and manually turned the crank at the harmonic balancer. While turning the engine if the cps is good, you should hear the ASD and fuel pump relay clicking on and off while the engine is turning if you dont hear them then it is most likely a bad cps. hope that helps someone.

I bought a new one and installed it. ran perfectly fine and I was able to run the cam break in procedures according to comp cam.

After the break in I took the valve cover off and retorqued the harland rockers and head bolts which is recommended by edlebrock.

I ordered a factory CPS from dexjs and ill be testing and installing that soon, figured its going to be better than anything made now a days.