After putting off my build for almost a year im finally “getting to it” and am in the final stages of getting parts before sending my engine to a machine shop
In short I am building based off of the “4.6 low-buck stroker” build layout. I am still debating on having the machine shop to just do the machine work and I assemble everything together (i am a jaguar and land rover technician and have practically every tool to assemble a head and block) or have the shop assemble the entire long block.
The block and head im building is off of a 96 grand cherokee
Here is a list of parts I have:
New 4.2 crank
Eagle 5104 connecting rods p# SIR6123JP
Comp cam 68-231-4 with lifters and thickened timing chain and gears
ARP head and main bolts
Harland S4096 roller rockers (I am debating on using these or stock rockers and push rods which i have)
24lb/hr injectors
And most almost all gaskets for the rest of the engine
Also have comp cam 68-301-5 however Im not planning on using it unless recommended
Parts I need before taking it to get machined:
Valves
Valve springs
This is where I need most help because I want to get a valve lap job and i might have to do machine work for the springs which is tbd. And yes I know I dont have pistons but I am waiting on which ones to get based off of the machine shops measurements and how much they are taking off the block and head for proper compression ratio. Feel free to put any suggestions of decent piston brands or choices.
After all this word salad my main questions are:
What valve springs and valves should I get with this set up?
For the valves im most likely going with stock, I just want to know a good brand to use?
But the valve springs I’m not too sure of. Cant seem to find the ones in this comp cam kit which is exactly what I have minus springs and retainers
https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-4x4-206 ... -4-0l.html
Ive tried finding mopar P5249464 springs but they seem to be unavailable almost every where I’ve looked. Some help finding these or some comparable ones would be great, pretty much anything that will be able to handle the valve lift of the cam.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated and welcomed. Any questions ab out anything I will be willing to answer to the best of my abilities.
Ps: if anyone knows of a great machine shop in the Dallas area feel free to leave it here I’ve found one that seems more than capable of completing the job, just curious if there’s some stroker guru in the Dallas area i dont know about.
Thanks!
Final check list before machine shop
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Re: Final check list before machine shop
1. Of the 2 different cams you listed (only given those 2 choices), your 1st choice would mine as well. The alternative has a 0.505" exhaust valve lift, which is quite high. It looks like both are "Rock Crawler" type cams. Lots of lift, not too bad on duration, and wide overlap.
2. Use the recommended springs for the cam you decide to use.
3. With a performance cam, save some money and use factory rocker arms (not Harland).
4. Get a 3-angle valve seat cut on the intakes and 5-angle on the exhausts. At a minimum, 3-angle on both.
5. If you have the equipment and skills, do the work yourself. If not, let the professionals do it.
2. Use the recommended springs for the cam you decide to use.
3. With a performance cam, save some money and use factory rocker arms (not Harland).
4. Get a 3-angle valve seat cut on the intakes and 5-angle on the exhausts. At a minimum, 3-angle on both.
5. If you have the equipment and skills, do the work yourself. If not, let the professionals do it.
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Re: Final check list before machine shop
Thanks! The first choice of cam is what I’m going with partially because that’s the one stated in a webpage with basic formulas
http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html
Just having trouble finding the proper springs for it.
When it comes to valves, are stock valves good enough or is there specific ones I should go for with that specific cam?
http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html
Just having trouble finding the proper springs for it.
When it comes to valves, are stock valves good enough or is there specific ones I should go for with that specific cam?
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Re: Final check list before machine shop
The stock valves are fine. If you have the head ported, you could have the seats cut for Chevy LS1 valves which are slightly bigger. You'd then have a wider choice of valve springs.
1992 XJ 4.6 I6 - 5MT - Stroker build-up, Stroker "recipes" Sold
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
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1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car

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Re: Final check list before machine shop
I found some comp cams valve springs. They say for max lift of .450” but I have read some people using these.
https://www.compcams.com/ovate-wire-450 ... html?gQT=1
Does this seem adequate for the 231 cam or should I go a different route.
https://www.compcams.com/ovate-wire-450 ... html?gQT=1
Does this seem adequate for the 231 cam or should I go a different route.
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Re: Final check list before machine shop
"Ps: if anyone knows of a great machine shop in the Dallas area feel free to leave it here I’ve found one that seems more than capable of completing the job, just curious if there’s some stroker guru in the Dallas area i dont know about."
Wells Racing Engines in Duncanville, TX cleaned, bored, and honed my '04 block and set cam bearings. Dennis Wells still performs all of the machine work and is meticulous. They got to it pretty quickly and prices were very reasonable. That's my go-to in DFW.
Wells Racing Engines in Duncanville, TX cleaned, bored, and honed my '04 block and set cam bearings. Dennis Wells still performs all of the machine work and is meticulous. They got to it pretty quickly and prices were very reasonable. That's my go-to in DFW.
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