Randy Bobandi wrote: ↑April 6th, 2021, 8:39 pm
rlinares40 wrote: ↑January 16th, 2021, 5:52 pm
My 06 didn't come with the SKIM module.
another way to bypass the SKIM is to buy a tuner and deactivate it so you don't have to worry about your jeep not starting.
The one problem I couldn't solve before starting this project was how I was going to control the A/C without having the original PCM in the car. Summers in Texas get pretty brutal so this project for me is at a standstill until I figure out the A/C.
I was unaware that there are 06' models without SKIM from the factory.
HPtuners confirmed that the SKIM cannot be deactivated from the 05-06 PCMs. Maybe there are some other wizards out there that can do it. I've yet to see it be done. I'm using the Haltech 2000 Elite Series ECU so I'm not worried about the starting system. With the SKIM module removed, and the vehicle running off of a standalone, will the factory PCM stay powered up?
I'm most concerned with safety inspections and keeping the Jeep "street legal". I don't live in a smog state that requires an emissions test but some grubby mechanics like to put their scan tools into the OBD2 port to check for codes. So it would be nice to have the factory PCM in place to at least link up with scan tools and rig it to where it shows no stored codes. The Haltech unit does have an OBD2 diagnostic function and port. Maybe it will be sufficient, maybe I'll have to program it a bit to make it read like a factory unit.
It looks like the PCM controls the AC High/Low switches and the AC compressor clutch. Couldn't you rig up those switches straight off of the battery?
ACwiring.JPG
I apologize for the late response, I've been working on stroking my jeep. ill make sure to check-in more often.
Maybe mine did and someone removed it? I know there I've check and there wasn't a skim module on mine... I do get the SKIM key light though but the odometer was replaced at some point so maybe it came from a vehicle with one?? but yeah mine is an 06 and I just have a standard key with no chip in it.
as long as the PCM has power it should stay on regardless, at least that's what the thought process, there would be an ignition wire that power up the PCM once the key is turned. keeping it "street legal" would be the issue because the PCM wouldn't have any data to report depending on what wiring you're trying to get rid of. Have you thought about the transmission? the 42RLE runs of that PCM, it raises the question of "if the PCM isn't getting signals from the sensors would the transmission run correctly?"
So the high and Low switch wouldn't be the problem (or maybe it would be as it needs different voltages per level picked), the problem would be the clutch compressor (cant run all the time/must cycle) or your AC lines freeze and the temp knob which I'm sure has a PID system or thermistor within the PCM.
What I'm really interested in is that Haltech unit and what you'd be using it for!
