my actual build list jeep 4.0l non stroker

[BeRadicle]

my actual build list and specs.

93 block 93 crank and rods, aluminum silicon alloy bearings .010 new cam bearings.
engine tech pistons .030
new standard oil pump, I have head of guys stripping cam gears with the HV when they didnt need it. new single roller gear set.
cometic .027 mls compressed thickness head gasket
lunati 63500 cam
home ported head,
crane 99100 multi fit locks 99950 retainers 99833 springs. install at 1.635 approximately 260# open and 110# closed
had to carve out my valve cover and grind the locks down as they stick above the valve stem.. next time just going to spent the $ on either scorpion vs or ls1 vs. but it works.
now I receive the block on monday or tuesday going to assemble then confirm a deck height.
now with the .027 gasket and a deck height of .0255 I get a quench of .0525. a staticcompression ratio of 9.23:1 and a dcr of 7.96:1.
msd coil, 24# injectors, straight shot throttle body with the taper taken out.
pacesetter long tube header into thrush glass pack 99+ intake

now for questions should I break it in with a .051 head gasket then swap to the .027? or just break it in with the .027 gasket? will be running on 87 octane.

considering the problem with these motors is they do not breath well enough I opted to stay stock and make it breath better.
hoping to notice some gains in the butt dyno.

thanks guys

[Russ Pottenger]

Hi Brad,

I see no problem breaking your engine in and running 87 with your .027 Cometic head gasket.

[BeRadicle]

thanks Russ, been a long time coming only had to relieve the 4.0l valve cover slightly for the exhaust valves in the center those crane springs were much larger than I had anticipated but they havee minimal clearance issues luckily.

[BeRadicle]

also update block is being decked as it was out to lunch had an .005 dip in the middle of the surface and the front piston height was .037 and the rear and no4 were .042 and running the thin gasket we want it as true as can be. so quench .047 compression will be dialed in by combustion chamber volume. but 58cc is ideal with a 13cc or 11cc dish with a 60cc chamber keeps the dcr at 8.05:1

so what temps am I gonna want to run this at? 87 octane probably a new aluminum rad high flow thermostat stock wp cause its new last year so fuck it. thinking I should aim to keep it at 180 hot. but will ask the machinist. when i ran it before it liked 210 degrees. it just ran there i don't know why but leaning toward a clogged rad. pretty sure it had a 180 in it so I think a 170 thermostat or 160.
consensus?
regards

[jsawduste]

Its supposed to run at 195/ 210. An OEM factory thermostat from the dealer (which is a 195) and a stock cooling system is what you want, no more no less.

Doing back to back dyno pulls have shown the best power on the 3rd to 4th pull when the engine gets nice and hot.

[Russ Pottenger]

This ^^^^^

Can't tell you how many times I hear of problems when people start deviating much from the factory cooling set up.

[BeRadicle]

well fuck, engine builder dropped my no4 piston. p1593 engine tech replaced with a 2229 silvolite same pin height same dish but weighs 20 grams more and has a shorter skirt. idk if I should accept it and run it my gut is telling me not to... would appreciate input

[jsawduste]

No way

[SkylinesSuck]

Hell no. This machine shop sounds terrible.

[BeRadicle]

to start I am the one that named 2229 as an equivalent part number only because it is on the enginetech website, my mistake, along with federal mougal 677p. now I am having trouble pining down a cc for the dish of the engine tech pistons, the silvolite should be 11cc but the FM is 14cc apparently, amd I found 1 post on here that confirmed the 1593 at 14cc but its not firm to me as there is no other available data.

[BeRadicle]

I bought a burette to do the ccing on the head, I will pull the 2229 and no3 1593 to check displacement and compare. if they aren't the same I will be talking to the guy again and I have every confidence he will make it right no matter what. as it sits I am aiming for a 58.5cc combustion chamber roughly cleaned up, which won't take much more should have it done tomorrow and will uncover the block and check the two pistons with my new toy. ended up not being able to unshroud the exaughst valves much due to the cometic head gasket being 3.950 across ended up with .025 deck height. was .037 and .042 and he took off 12 and 17 thousandths off I wanted .02 but whatever. this whole experience has been underwhelming. I hope break in goes alright. was hoping to be at a dcr of 8.0 but if the 1593 is a 14cc dish I'm at about a 7.84 and if the 2229 doesn't match I am pulling my fucking hair out.

[jsawduste]

Your still not considering the weight difference as reported in your original post.

[BeRadicle]

yes, well I have now way to measure the weight with accuracy, so I am only able to trust what the engine builder has stated that 20g or less out on no4 won't be noticeable. I think considering it will see the rev limiter from time to time at 5200 rpm I should keep it as close as I can. ultimately I don't know this is why I am asking.

[Russ Pottenger]

A new set of 2229 pistons that's match balanced is your fix.

$120.00

Shoot me a call or email.

Russ

[BeRadicle]

yah, little to late. it is getting wet here humidity up around 99% for a couple weeks so I put it together in the interest of keeping the moisture out. then installed it in the jeep. so new pistons aren't happening. I dont care at this point if it runs or if it blows up either way I am probably selling the fucking stupid fucking jeep. I am so mad at this point.