No problem, But it's TJW
I went with the short Rod because I had them and as my title suggests I'm on a very tight budget! I know that to most the cost difference is nominal, but right now every nickel counts, but I need to rebuild anyhow and have wanted to do a stroker for a long time and already had a crank and rods.
Yes, please hook me up with Dustin,
I've already talked to Chris so I think I'm covered there.
I'll talk to Russ and see what he suggests I do for a cam.
I guess the 809 is going to fleebay
On a stock head with stock valve springs I
have a cam that Comp does for me that works well.
It's:
206 212 @ .050
.435 .448 lift
113 LSA
I've used this along with the 68-232-4 but with this cam
you have to be real careful setting up the installed spring height. You'll be about .060 from coil bind if using a stock, or stock replacement valve spring
Russ Pottenger wrote:On a stock head with stock valve springs I
have a cam that Comp does for me that works well.
It's:
206 212 @ .050
.435 .448 lift
113 LSA
I've used this along with the 68-232-4 but with this cam
you have to be real careful setting up the installed spring height. You'll be about .060 from coil bind if using a stock, or stock replacement valve spring
Out of curiosity TJW how about running the compression numbers with this new stick. Curious what your corrected to altitude DCR will be.
I did it on my Jeep just 1150 miles after I did the stroker swap some 12 years ago (can't believe it's been that long!). AFAIK, nobody else was either brave or stupid enough to copy my Mustang Cobra 65mm TB swap but it still works great after 83k miles of use.
What you all think as far as using an adjustable map? I'm going to get a ChrisTuned ecu. The recipe a recipe couple post back with three changes is where I'm at.
Cam: 67-232-4 Russ modified
Time: straight up
64mm TB
to copy my Mustang Cobra 65mm TB swap but it still works great after 83k miles of use.
but I'm going to try something else stupid first, I let you know later what it was depending on the out come.