
Forced to start over.
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Forced to start over.
Well...at least I don't have to keep messing with my engine anymore. My mechanic " which is weird to say " took a look a all the cylinders and are scored to shit so the engine is coming out tomorrow. Good news is he has an engine builder he has known for 25 years and has built 20k dollar race engines. SO......... since I'm starting over obviously I should use the 4.0 rods instead of the 258 ones in there now. Good chance I need new pistons which will bring quench to literally half. Okay so give me a good recipe so I don't search the internet forever again. I'm looking for 250-270 hp 300 max so my Eagle doesn't get twisted in half. I just don't have the time now to research. I'm painting almost 6 days a week now. I'm happy at least I have a close reputable engine builder. Thanks guys, excited to turn over a new leaf. 

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Re: Forced to start over.
Why not follow Dino's advice with either the Modified Poor Mans stroker or the 4.6 Low Buck Stroker? And make sure you get the quench is set properly!!!
Here is a link for you:
http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html
BTW, what part of the country are you located? Might want to get your piston from Russ to assure you get the right stuff and by way of saying "Thank You" for all the free assistance Russ has offered you. Just a thought.
Here is a link for you:
http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html
BTW, what part of the country are you located? Might want to get your piston from Russ to assure you get the right stuff and by way of saying "Thank You" for all the free assistance Russ has offered you. Just a thought.
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Re: Forced to start over.
Just buy a crate 4.0 rebuild and be done with it.............
The other thread with the sticker comment.
There are genuine JeepStrokers Stickers that Silver made up. Buy the sticker. You jumped to another conclusion, again.
Quit throwing money and time down the toilet.
BTW, a 20K "race" engine, while nice, doesn't come close to what could be considered a "premium" build.
The other thread with the sticker comment.
There are genuine JeepStrokers Stickers that Silver made up. Buy the sticker. You jumped to another conclusion, again.
Quit throwing money and time down the toilet.
BTW, a 20K "race" engine, while nice, doesn't come close to what could be considered a "premium" build.
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Re: Forced to start over.
I have thanked Russ many times now. All my time and money wasted wasn't due to me it was due to the half ass engine builder I first had.
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Re: Forced to start over.
BTW how would I not jump to the conclusion first you would of been nice ???
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Re: Forced to start over.
I am nice, you have to earn my not do nice side.
Still contend you will be further ahead buying a stock crate engine.
Still contend you will be further ahead buying a stock crate engine.
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Re: Forced to start over.
Id like to have the stroker. What I would like more is someone to build one right so I'm not pounding my head against the wall and pissing people off with questions I shouldn't have to ask. This should of been a topic of history months ago. Even right now I am researching othere stroker combinations instead of saying f-it its going to a reputable builder and he can figure it out. I should be in the garage pulling all the shit apart again actually but I don't want to. I know the sooner its out the sooner it gets back in but I'm tired of dealing with it not to mention my wife !
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Re: Forced to start over.
jsawduste wrote:I am nice, you have to earn my not so nice side.
Still contend you will be further ahead buying a stock crate engine.
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Re: Forced to start over.
No not going to happen. I was just reading long versus short rod. I'm definitely sending my engine to this new guy with the 4.0 rods due to what I read. Even though the 4.0 rods are a tad longer is there any additional hp or tq by using them or is it basically for longer engine life ?
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Re: Forced to start over.
Well, I remember suggesting to look at the bores from the top, and from the bottom to see if they were scuffed or scored in any way. Scuffed walls and pistons can sound like top end noise, and providing a video would have helped to pinpoint that too, oh well. Maybe do some research because there are crate stroker motors that people have had good luck with, good luck either way.
Oh, and it's a good idea to figure out why your walls got scuffed. Did you engine overheat? Were the piston ring gaps checked? Were the walls bored out to the correct size? Did the pistons seize on the rod? Was there an oiling issue? Were the correct size piston rings used? And I think running too rich or too lean can scuff up the walls.
Oh, and it's a good idea to figure out why your walls got scuffed. Did you engine overheat? Were the piston ring gaps checked? Were the walls bored out to the correct size? Did the pistons seize on the rod? Was there an oiling issue? Were the correct size piston rings used? And I think running too rich or too lean can scuff up the walls.
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Re: Forced to start over.
Let's do some homework.amceaglesx4 wrote: Even though the 4.0 rods are a tad longer is there any additional hp or tq by using them or is it basically for longer engine life ?
Does the 4.2 with the shorter rod have any less reliability issues then 4.0's ?
If they both are proven reliable then why do we desire the longer 4.0 ?
Start by learning those basics. Oance you know report back.
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Re: Forced to start over.
Longer rods have less angularity in movement , at btc and tdc longer for even combustion , less stress on wrist pins and less speed of pistons.
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Re: Forced to start over.
That's a good start.
Now
Why do we prefer a 4.0 rod over a 4.2 ? Both can be made to work but why is one a better option ? Hint, it has to do with the piston.
I am not playing games with you. Only want you to understand some of the nuances of a successful stroker build.
Dino, Russ, Chris Silver feel free to jump in as you wish.
You have to give the guy credit for persistence. Perhaps with a little guidance he too can have a good running stroker engine and at the same time know how and why.
Now
Why do we prefer a 4.0 rod over a 4.2 ? Both can be made to work but why is one a better option ? Hint, it has to do with the piston.
I am not playing games with you. Only want you to understand some of the nuances of a successful stroker build.
Dino, Russ, Chris Silver feel free to jump in as you wish.
You have to give the guy credit for persistence. Perhaps with a little guidance he too can have a good running stroker engine and at the same time know how and why.
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Re: Forced to start over.
Well since the 4.2 rod is longer it brings the piston closer to deck height which would automatically reduce quench to give a better chance of non detonation and to be able to run an 87 octane versus premium.
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Re: Forced to start over.
There, fixed it.amceaglesx4 wrote:Well since the 4.0 rod is longer it brings the piston closer to deck height which would automatically reduce quench to give a better chance of non detonation and to be able to run an 87 octane versus premium.
Sigh!amceaglesx4 wrote:Well...at least I don't have to keep messing with my engine anymore. My mechanic " which is weird to say " took a look a all the cylinders and are scored to shit so the engine is coming out tomorrow.
Too right!jsawduste wrote:Quit throwing money and time down the toilet.
Yeah, I'll give him credit for his persistence and his willingness to learn but he's also stubbornly ignored our advice and gone his own merry way. Now this is the result. I just wish he'd hired Russ to build his engine for him in the first place.jsawduste wrote:You have to give the guy credit for persistence. Perhaps with a little guidance he too can have a good running stroker engine and at the same time know how and why.
I'm not going to tell him what he should do now 'cause he should already know and I don't want to sound like a broken record.

Last edited by Cheromaniac on May 11th, 2016, 10:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
1992 XJ 4.6 I6 - 5MT - Stroker build-up, Stroker "recipes" Sold
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