First Stroker confusion recommendations

[mntnresq]

Hello all,

I have a 2000 XJ with an automatic which I believe is internally stock. It has a TB spacer, CAI, and what appears to be a no-name header. I was reasonably happy with the power before, but then it broke the skirt off of #5 last fall, and has been sitting while I consider my options. I would love to do a swap (a GM LTG 2.0L turbo/6L80 would be very interesting), however funds, and more importantly, time is not on my side. So, I'm back to primarily looking at a stroker.

Despite all of the reading I have done here, and elsewhere, I am finding myself confused as to the best approach to my rig. Seems like the more I read, the more the variables change the direction I think I am going in. Unlike the many small block Chevy's I've built where there are tons of aftermarket alternatives, it seems you have to juggle 47 different combinations of stock components to come up with what you want for these Jeep inlines.

This truck is my primary DD, and SAR response rig, which sees most of its' time doing about 100 highway miles a day, and occasionally running lights and siren to a call, so mileage and reliability is pretty crucial. I rarely find myself crawling with it, but I do tow up to around 2500lb with it once or twice a month. It's about 6500ft elevation here, with frequent jaunts to over 14000ft.

I don't have my old motor torn down yet, so the block condition and any needed bore/decking is unknown right now, but I am assuming .030/.010 or so. Of course, I am shooting for the best HP/TQ (250/300ish or better) I can get, but would like to keep the SCR as low as I reasonably can (8.8 - 9.2) if possible for a couple reasons- even if that means lower output initially. Obviously, being able to run less expensive fuel is nice; and if I decide I'm not happy with the power output, then I can consider forced induction later, and take a more incremental approach to get the power I want. Right now, I am looking at a parts spec list similar to the "Modified Poor Mans' Stroker". I would go with forged pistons which I can play with the dish volume on to keep the SCR where I want; with quality rings and bearings, and the usual bottom end upgrades one would want.

One of my big areas of confusion is in the head/valvetrain. Mine has the non-TUPY 0331, which admittedly I have had no issues with, in spite of having gotten hot a couple times. That being said, I am hesitant to re-use it knowing the reputation these heads have. What I am a bit unclear on, is what is the best casting to go with, and ported or not. As I understand it, the 0331 was one of the best flowing stock designs, but it seems that many prefer the 7120 with a big valve upgrade and maybe some porting. The Edelbrock is of course another option, but that is also about half of my ideal budget.

Suggestions for head selection? Stock TUPY 0331, Ported 7120, Ported TUPY, XXX? I am comfortable doing my own porting, but am also open to having it done/buying a prepped head.

Whatever I did would be coupled with port matching, a long tube header, 2.5" complete exhaust, bored TB, and a tune.

Any thoughts would be great.

Thanks

[amceaglesx4]

I get it friend lmfao. I posted my build. Basic and to the point. There is so many ways to do this it blows your brain out of your head.

[Cheromaniac]

Right now, I am looking at a parts spec list similar to the "Modified Poor Mans' Stroker". I would go with forged pistons which I can play with the dish volume on to keep the SCR where I want; with quality rings and bearings, and the usual bottom end upgrades one would want.

Suggestions for head selection? Stock TUPY 0331, Ported 7120, Ported TUPY, XXX? I am comfortable doing my own porting, but am also open to having it done/buying a prepped head.

A modified poor man's stroker would be the simplest route, and Russ Pottenger can provide you with a set of custom pistons with a dish size for the CR you need. Bulltear also do custom pistons.
My suggestion for the head selection is a ported TUPY 0331. If you're going to do port matching as well as a pocket port, port match only the intake side. The exhaust ports need to be smaller than the header pipes to prevent reversion so opening those up would be counterproductive.

[mntnresq]

A modified poor man's stroker would be the simplest route, and Russ Pottenger can provide you with a set of custom pistons with a dish size for the CR you need. Bulltear also do custom pistons.
My suggestion for the head selection is a ported TUPY 0331. If you're going to do port matching as well as a pocket port, port match only the intake side. The exhaust ports need to be smaller than the header pipes to prevent reversion so opening those up would be counterproductive.

Thanks. That helps, and was kinda the way I was leaning. What I am really aiming for, is to not have to get back into the internals of the motor again. If I decide to add a turbo or supercharger later, I don't want to have to swap the cam, etc, to make it happy. Mild to moderate, but flexible and bulletproof.

I will try to do some other cross-referencing, but I assume a TUPY off of say, an '03-05 WJ or TJ would be compatible?

Thanks

[Cheromaniac]

I will try to do some other cross-referencing, but I assume a TUPY off of say, an '03-05 WJ or TJ would be compatible?

YYYYYYYup.

[mntnresq]

Bueno

[mntnresq]

So, I pulled the motor/trans/tcase all together and got the motor torn down.

After MUCH vacillating on what I want to do/spend, I've decided to just let Russ send me a big pile o parts, and put it back together. So, pretty much the only things being reused here are the bock, rockers and water pump.

My question, before I chuck the rest of this in the recycling- is any of the factory stuff worth anything to anyone? Not really even interested in making money on it, just don't want to toss it if someone can use any of it. So-

*From a 2000 XJ 4.0, roughly 145k that I know of
* non TUPY 0331 Head- not cracked that I know of
*good condition 4.0 crank
*good condition 4.0 rods - (piston skirt broke on #6 which is what started the rebuild)
*stock 4.0 HO cam/lifters, good cond

If anyone has any use for any of this, let me know soon, or it's probably going with my trash man on Mon.

[jeepxj3]

Where are you located?

[mntnresq]

Colorado Springs.

[Kahlis]

A modified poor man's stroker would be the simplest route, and Russ Pottenger can provide you with a set of custom pistons with a dish size for the CR you need. Bulltear also do custom pistons.
My suggestion for the head selection is a ported TUPY 0331. If you're going to do port matching as well as a pocket port, port match only the intake side. The exhaust ports need to be smaller than the header pipes to prevent reversion so opening those up would be counterproductive.

I agree with Cheromaniac on the Bulltear pistons. Got mine delivered three weeks from the order date. 28cc dish - 3.935 dia (.60 over)

[Kahlis]

A modified poor man's stroker would be the simplest route, and Russ Pottenger can provide you with a set of custom pistons with a dish size for the CR you need. Bulltear also do custom pistons.
My suggestion for the head selection is a ported TUPY 0331. If you're going to do port matching as well as a pocket port, port match only the intake side. The exhaust ports need to be smaller than the header pipes to prevent reversion so opening those up would be counterproductive.

I agree with Cheromaniac on the Bulltear pistons. Got mine delivered three weeks from the order date. 28cc dish - 3.935 dia (.60 over)

Although, Bulltear doesn't include piston rings. I bought a set from summitracing for less than $53.

[Russ Pottenger]

A modified poor man's stroker would be the simplest route, and Russ Pottenger can provide you with a set of custom pistons with a dish size for the CR you need. Bulltear also do custom pistons.
My suggestion for the head selection is a ported TUPY 0331. If you're going to do port matching as well as a pocket port, port match only the intake side. The exhaust ports need to be smaller than the header pipes to prevent reversion so opening those up would be counterproductive.

I agree with Cheromaniac on the Bulltear pistons. Got mine delivered three weeks from the order date. 28cc dish - 3.935 dia (.60 over)

I'm assuming Bulltear sent you a piston with a full circular dish?

[Kahlis]

Nope - why would you assume that?

IMAG05321.jpg

[Russ Pottenger]

Nope - why would you assume that?

IMAG05321.jpg

Very good.
Bulltear has sold they're Pistons to others on this forum with a full circular dish
in similar dish volumes as yours, and that's not the direction to go in a normally aspirated engine.

[Cheromaniac]

That looks like a work of art.