Okay now what ? Rod knock on a 50 mile engine /

[amceaglesx4]

Southern wheels magazine. You can email them and tell them they are wrong and you're right !

[Cheromaniac]

Yea I've got no play at all when the pushrods are torqued. Some spin but no up n down movement what so ever. Some rockers move a hair and others don't I noticed but no " oh shit that's loose ".

But you still have absolutely no idea how much preload there is on each lifter and if it's within the correct range (0.020"-0.060").

I pulled the last plug and it was pretty carboned up and they got better moving to number one. If plugs aren't firing right they can cause a noise. What I'm thinking at this point is initially I was running a 280 FM two barrel and life was good. I decided to throw on a 500cfm four barrel and that's about the time I heard the ticking. I noticed under the 4bbl carb others was a puddle of gas which would explain extreme rich causing a possible spark plug failure. So a couple variables with initial start up had 87 octane and a 2bbl then to 89 with a 4bbl. Since higher octane burns slower and now bigger rich running carb instead of 87 octane and a leaner carb that could create havoc on a particular spark plug heat range. Anybody on the same page as me here ?

You're clutching at straws here. Plugs don't make noise when they're not firing right. However an improperly set up valvetrain definitely CAN make noise though.
The carb issue is unrelated. The float level may not be set properly or the jets are too big, and no matter what spark plugs you use if you drown them with fuel they aren't going to fire.

[jsawduste]

Southern wheels magazine ?

How about SAE research papers written by true chemical and mechinal engineers ?
You know, the folks whom can explain things with big words, proven facts and dynamics ?

These is getting ridiculous. I bowed out once before, I shall do so again.

If it wasn't for the entertainment value you would be on my ignore list.

Please don't keep bugging folks with phone calls and text messages unless your willing to compensate them for their efforts..

[amceaglesx4]

Only person I've talked to is Russ and he's a very nice and helpful person. Even Dino has been very helpful. You on the other hand.... and I'll probably get my wrist slapped here but YOU'RE A FUCKING DICK.

[jsawduste]

Thank you, what can I say ?

[amceaglesx4]

BTW the head or block together at max had .020 taken off to plane it level. Which still leaves .020 of wiggle room for preload. Have a nice Easter.

[Cheromaniac]

BTW the head or block together at max had .020 taken off to plane it level. Which still leaves .020 of wiggle room for preload. Have a nice Easter.

Happy Easter 2U2.
What you're saying is true up to a point but you still can't assume that the lifter preload is going to be correct without measuring it.
Using a thinner head gasket and having the valves/valve seats reground will also affect the lifter preload, and there could be variances due to manufacturing tolerances.
BTW, John has also tried to help you but I don't think he has the same patience as I have, and you're really testing mine!
Measure, measure, and measure again. Mistakes when building engines WILL get punished.

[jsawduste]

Thanks Dino !!

[amceaglesx4]

I think a lot of the times the big names on here sometes forget most people on here have never attempted building a custom motor before. The reason we get on here is to try and figure it out. Im not really sure how to measure preload and all these mathematical equations to motors. I know there is an adjustable pushrod to measure proper length but tolerances and clearances and what not a lot of us don't get or use on a regular basis. I paint homes , bodywork and paint, rebuilt trans and transfer cases and know hammers and power tools. I'm not an engine builder or claim to be. If I knew all the bullshit of a stroker beforehand I would of just bought a 200hp crate motor with a warranty and be done with it. Hats off to you professional engine builders.

[jsawduste]

Most of what you call professional engine builders are simply garage workshop, after our main job common folk. We possess no magic skills other then the ability to approach a project with an open mind and a willeness to learn.

Most of the folks responding to the help posts understand the nuances and are more then happy to share. It's when the help keeps getting bucked and challenged do we to start to loose interest. We don't know it all but many of us know enough to get by on a fairly reasonable scale.

That said, as a whole the 4.0 based strokers are pretty lame engines technology wise. They are also very forgiving. However they do (as most any engine does) require a few basic parameters that are common with any engine build.

Dino said it well in the last few sentces of his last post.

[Russ Pottenger]

Chris,
We're checking for proper pushrod length.

Rotate the engine until both intake and exhaust lifters of a common cylinder is on the heel of the camshaft.
Let's start with the pushrods that you have. Drop them in along with your pair of rockers and bridge.
Grab your socket and wrench. I prefer a T handle, but a ratchet will work. As your gradually tightening down your pair of 5/16 rocker bolts, twist the top of the pushrod with your fingertips until you feel the pushrod engaging the plunger with zero lash. Ideally you're looking for something between a quarter and three quarters of a turn. Of depression. If that's not what you have then it's time to get a adjustable pushrod so you can accurately measure the correct length.

28 foot pounds is a bit high for torque. With oil on the threads I'm torquing mine to 22lbs.

[Cheromaniac]

I think a lot of the times the big names on here sometimes forget most people on here have never attempted building a custom motor before.

Neither did I until I embarked on my stroker project 12 years ago. For me it's just a hobby but it's like John said, you have to keep an open mind and take on board the advice given by those with more experience in the field. It's also valuable to learn from other peoples' mistakes so you don't repeat them yourself.
The 4.0L based stroker is probably one of the easiest engines you could possibly build due to its simple, somewhat primitive technology (hence the comparatively low specific HP/TQ outputs by today's standards). That reduces the risk of mistakes compared to building a modern DOHC 4-valve per cylinder engine with variable cam timing and other fancy techno-wizardry but the same engine-building rules still apply.

[amceaglesx4]

I wouldn't even attempt a dohc. I don't think its a tappet per load situation because the noise gets more apparent the further back on the rockers go. Unless each pushrod gets longer or shorter the farther back you go lol. Where I'm at is the farther back you go the more carboned up the plugs are. Two people verified its not the bottom end or camshaft , tappets or pushrods so ???

[Cheromaniac]

Something's seriously f***ed up and since we're not there to look at and listen to the engine, I think you'd better hire a professional to go over it with a fine toothcomb to find out where the problem lies.
Starting another thread isn't going to help you, but hiring someone who knows his way around an engine just might.
If Russ isn't too far away from you I suggest you start there.