Finishing stroker build... NO crank
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: October 8th, 2015, 2:42 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4.7
- Vehicle Year: 1993
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
Finishing stroker build... NO crank
After months of tearing apart, research, getting parts, and assembling the engine in my Cherokee it is all in. The other day i thought i had everything ready to go, i go to start and i get nothing. I've done quite a bit of research and went to talk with my mechanic friend. Heres what i know....
The accessories come on.. When i turn the ignition the fan shuts off.. Which leads me to believe the ignition switch is fine.
Its a brand new starter.. When i jump the positive terminal to the small wire terminal on the starter it DOES crank but doesn't turn over. It WILL crank even if the key is only in the ignition, not just in the start position. My mechanic friend said that can happen if the solenoids getting power from somewhere else.
I used my multimeter and found when i put the positive lead to small terminal wire on the starter then the negative lead to a good ground then try turn the ignition to start it doesn't give me a 10-12v reading.. it doesn't even give me 1v. So I'm not getting power to small terminal when trying to start... i do have the connection going from the small wire to the wire loom connected.
The starter relay clicks when trying to start.
The NSS has been bad for a couple years but I've spliced it out of the system so that i can start it. the splice is connected well. Ive had the same splice for a couple years so i don't think thats the cause of my problem.
Battery is charged.. I also switched out batteries from my Wrangler that runs fine and still the same thing.
I have checked grounds.. I have good looking cables.. ground from battery to fender and to block under coil. ground from firewall to fuel rail (not on head stud because i have arp head bolts) three ground wires from wiring harness near firewall to oil tube bolt into block. and ground from alternator loom to block under coil.
I'm sure there are a few details i may be missing. What could possibly be faulty or not connected for these symptoms to occur? I have double and tripled checked everything is plugged in so i am stumped here. I did a very good job of labeling things with tape when i was disassembling. I don't believe that it can be a sensor because it won't even crank normally. I mean even if i accidentally had my distributor off by 180 it would still at least crank? ANY help would be appreciated. Maybe some ways to test with a multimeter if I'm getting power to the Power Distribution block and things like that. Thanks all
The accessories come on.. When i turn the ignition the fan shuts off.. Which leads me to believe the ignition switch is fine.
Its a brand new starter.. When i jump the positive terminal to the small wire terminal on the starter it DOES crank but doesn't turn over. It WILL crank even if the key is only in the ignition, not just in the start position. My mechanic friend said that can happen if the solenoids getting power from somewhere else.
I used my multimeter and found when i put the positive lead to small terminal wire on the starter then the negative lead to a good ground then try turn the ignition to start it doesn't give me a 10-12v reading.. it doesn't even give me 1v. So I'm not getting power to small terminal when trying to start... i do have the connection going from the small wire to the wire loom connected.
The starter relay clicks when trying to start.
The NSS has been bad for a couple years but I've spliced it out of the system so that i can start it. the splice is connected well. Ive had the same splice for a couple years so i don't think thats the cause of my problem.
Battery is charged.. I also switched out batteries from my Wrangler that runs fine and still the same thing.
I have checked grounds.. I have good looking cables.. ground from battery to fender and to block under coil. ground from firewall to fuel rail (not on head stud because i have arp head bolts) three ground wires from wiring harness near firewall to oil tube bolt into block. and ground from alternator loom to block under coil.
I'm sure there are a few details i may be missing. What could possibly be faulty or not connected for these symptoms to occur? I have double and tripled checked everything is plugged in so i am stumped here. I did a very good job of labeling things with tape when i was disassembling. I don't believe that it can be a sensor because it won't even crank normally. I mean even if i accidentally had my distributor off by 180 it would still at least crank? ANY help would be appreciated. Maybe some ways to test with a multimeter if I'm getting power to the Power Distribution block and things like that. Thanks all
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Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
You might want to check the splice again to make sure it's intact. It's often the case that something very simple can cause a no crank/start situation.GarrettXJ93 wrote:The NSS has been bad for a couple years but I've spliced it out of the system so that i can start it. the splice is connected well. Ive had the same splice for a couple years so i don't think thats the cause of my problem.
1992 XJ 4.6 I6 - 5MT - Stroker build-up, Stroker "recipes" Sold
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car

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- Joined: October 8th, 2015, 2:42 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4.7
- Vehicle Year: 1993
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- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
Sorry i did forget to specify that i did intact check the spice.. I was using electrical tape before.. I changed it out for a wire nut. Splice looks good.
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Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
Lost me at the tape then nut on the splice.
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Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
I'm not that sharp on automotive electronics, but I can tell you that wire nuts are for Homes not Jeeps
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Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
I might have missed it, but are you getting spark? Check for that, then if not getting spark, check your engine control fuses and your relays (like the ASD) in your black fuse box under the hood. Also, check to see if you're getting fuel. Here's some good videos I watched when I was having a no start condition, he goes through step by step in diagnosing it. You'll need a multi meter and one of those volt checkers that light up.
He uses other diagnosing tools, but I was able to figure out in my case that I had a bad 30 amp engine control fuse. You can also switch around relays I think if you think the ones responsible for turning on you engine are bad. Also, a bad CPS could cause the engine to not start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-d6-jrGidA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLwNcgtv9z0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCZdv-FYwxw
He uses other diagnosing tools, but I was able to figure out in my case that I had a bad 30 amp engine control fuse. You can also switch around relays I think if you think the ones responsible for turning on you engine are bad. Also, a bad CPS could cause the engine to not start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-d6-jrGidA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLwNcgtv9z0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCZdv-FYwxw
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: October 8th, 2015, 2:42 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4.7
- Vehicle Year: 1993
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
Sorry Russ i know what wire nut you are talking about.. This is like the crimp kind. Not the twist. I guess wire nuts probably not the correct term.
Optmaxx thanks for the input. I'm not sure if i am getting spark. Ive just been trying to get the starter to turn. I will look into the rest of it.
Optmaxx thanks for the input. I'm not sure if i am getting spark. Ive just been trying to get the starter to turn. I will look into the rest of it.
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Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
Coming out of the bottom of the PDC, is a small harness, which ends in a White 4 pin connector, C108. It connects to a white connector coming out of the MAIN harness, and is located between the battery and coolant recovery bottle, Pin 4 goes to the PCM, pins 2 & 3 go to the alt, and pin 1 goes from the starter relay in the PDC, and goes to the starter. Check that connector. If it is not connected it would cause your problem, and an ALT problem, which would only show up AFTER it is running.
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Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
Sorry, Pin 4 of C108 goes to the A/C compressor clutch.
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: October 8th, 2015, 2:42 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4.7
- Vehicle Year: 1993
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- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
Sorry took me few days to respond. Have been very busy. I will attempt that tomorrow and see what happens.
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Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
Honestly lol.... you could very easily have a flat spot in the starter. Its happened MANY times in my xj's over the years. Put it in neutral and roll it a few feet and tapety tap the hammer with a starter a few times. You might possibly shit in your pants when it cranks and starts up !!! If it doesn't put it in neutral. They will only start in park or neutral. If it starts its your nss. BTW... you can rebuild them easy and its free. I may be a jackass about building a stroker but after owning 6 xj's I'm a bit of a grandmaster with them. Keep us posted friend.
- Cheromaniac
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- Stroker Displacement: 4563cc
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Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
I've only owned one but I've had it for 21 years!amceaglesx4 wrote:I may be a jackass about building a stroker but after owning 6 xj's I'm a bit of a grandmaster with them.
1992 XJ 4.6 I6 - 5MT - Stroker build-up, Stroker "recipes" Sold
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car

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- Movin on up ^
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- Joined: December 5th, 2015, 5:26 pm
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Re: Finishing stroker build... NO crank
Holy shit ! Guess nobody knows a '92 like you do.
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