Im a newbie, my 1st stroker, but long time cj owner

[chucker]

Hello, i've been a long time lurker and finally joined now that I am beginning my 1st stroker. It is a 1981 cj7 with a 4.0 OBD1 I converted a few years back. So i located a 1995 high mileage 4.0 and a 258 block and crank ( 12 weight). The Cj is a weekend street jeep I did a full frame off... I'm just bitten by the Horsepower bug, plus it will be a great project for my son and I to do this winter before he leaves for college next fall. It a life skill, Kind of like "welding". You need to be able to rebuild an engine I say.
What better engine to learn on than the 4.0.

I'm planning the poor mans stroker. I payed 200 bucks for both engines. I am planning the long rod version, kb pistons, and comp cam. But no head porting, just low cr ratio for torque. Right now with my current 4.0l with neon injectors, 99 intake, 62mm TB and Borla header it runs pretty good.

I'm sure once I get it torn down and hot tanked Ill have to report back as to whether its been bored before, etc. head shaved.

thanks chucker

[chucker]

Hello again. I got it torn down today. The 4,0L has been rebuilt 1 time as far as I can tell. Its got .040 pistons and has seen alot of miles and or poor service as the sludge and deposits are pretty severe.

I tossed out the head bolts as Im sure I will buy new. What about crank bolts? Do they stretch? I know breaking them loose today the drivers side of the each crank bearing cap the bolts did not feel as tight ??

Im still planning a low buck stroker. Bored to .060 with 4.0 rods, 12 weight 258 crank is nearly here. In not sure on what cam ? I want torqe to pull from right off idle 1200 or so to 4500. its got 3.73 gears,

chucker

[Cheromaniac]

Might as well replace all the critical fasteners:

Main cap bolts: http://headbolts.com/store/p/444-Main-b ... ine-6.html
Rod bolts: http://headbolts.com/arp-112-6001-Rod-b ... P-4-2.html
Head bolts: http://headbolts.com/jeep-258-242-arp-1 ... head-bolts

Note that rod bolts on the 4.2 and 4.0 engines are the same.

[jasonb]

A couple of thoughts on this, If you haven't already ordered pistons there are better options than the KBs. With a custom piston like Bulltear, you'll be able to get a better quench and still keep the compression low. I'd be a little concerned about the block, you'll want to get it checked out to see if it can go .060 over before you spend the money on pistons. Main bolts are re-useable, no idea why one side was loose though.

Jason

[jsawduste]

^^^^^I don`t agree with that statement at all.^^^^^

[jasonb]

^^^^^I don`t agree with that statement at all.^^^^^

Ok, If I made an incorrect statement please correct me.

Jason

[jsawduste]

A couple of thoughts on this, If you haven't already ordered pistons there are better options than the KBs. With a custom piston like Bulltear, you'll be able to get a better quench and still keep the compression low. I'd be a little concerned about the block, you'll want to get it checked out to see if it can go .060 over before you spend the money on pistons. Main bolts are re-useable, no idea why one side was loose though.

Jason

A much better choice are pistons offered by Russ Pottenger. They offer an improved dome design and compression numbers to your specs. Even the pin height can be modified as well as an option for floating pins. Standard or metric rings are also available.

Have yet to see a block that will not take .060 over. In fact, I`ve gone .080 with no issues.

In the simplest of terms. Clamping force of a bolt is a measurement of bolt stretch. Once that bolt has been torqued and put under tension it will no longer provide the clamping force it was designed for at the given torque value. It is false assurance to think a main, rod or head bolt will achieve the same clamping force if reused. The same could be said of any bolt but in a critical, highly loaded application it is common sense to use fresh hardware.

[chucker]

Thanks for the info.

i will purchase new rod bolts, mains, and head bolts.

im on a low budget so id like the KB pistons to work. Im assuming The Russ pistons and other true custom ones are going to be 60-75 bucks each. Penny wise, pound foolish?

I spoke to Bennie at Hesco, it will take .060 easily. I will have it magnafluxed.

are there any "cast in" indentifiers on the head or the block deck to "see" "check" them for shaving? BMW has such cast in theirs and it makes it easy to see who has performed previous machining.

thanks for the guidance, ill be in touch as I go along.

chucker

[jsawduste]

Chucked, one of the most important aspects of a good running stroker is proper quench. If your not going to try and achieve that goal you will be disappointed with the final product.
Russ sells his Pistons very reasonably. Urge you to at least consider his offering. Give him a call and speak to him.

[chucker]

Does Russ have a phone number or company name to google ?

thks chucker

[jsawduste]

Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Ave.
West Covina, California 91790
Work (626) 967-1000
Fax (626) 967-7836
Cell (626) 673-2203
Email/PayPal: [email protected]


I`ll give him a call for you.







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[xdark]

I have yet to see one that wont go .060 aswell. I have 3 of them under my belt but you never know casti gs are not perfect.

[Russ Pottenger]

I have yet to see one that wont go .060 aswell. I have 3 of them under my belt but you never know casti gs are not perfect.

X 2,

Have one on a engine stand now with a 3.965 bore.

[xdark]

3.965 ? Wow i just dont have the pair to go that much lol 3.935 is my limit .