Oil Gushing Out Rockers????? Low Oil Pressure? Lifter Tick?

[SheSaid]

Hello

I have a fresh 4.6L built with some problems. Oil pressure was low with a valve train tick. Also I have a true dual exhaust so I know I have a miss in cylindera 1-3. Big comp cam, 10.25 compression, new rockauto cheap lifters, new push rods, and Hella Terra 1.7:1 rockers. I pulled the valve cover and found this:

https://youtu.be/pldVM_7LuTY

Oil is shooting violently out of #2 #3 rocker arms. Almost no oil on the others.

What could cause this?

Bad lifters? Plugged tapped gallery?

Please let me know if you have any ideas

Thanks

[SilverXJ]

Perhaps an oil galley plug was left out on the front of the engine?

[SheSaid]

I was thinking about gallery plugs, but I know I double checked each to make sure they were in. Plus if I left that one out then the oil should be leaking behind timing cover and not shooting up through the two lifters to the rockers right???

It just seems odd and my only theory so far is that the lifters are missing the metering plate or ball inside the housing causing the oil to go crazy.

[Russ Pottenger]

Did you double check the lifter preload?

[Russ Pottenger]

Also, did you give the pushrods a good visual check?
It's very common for aftermarket chrome molly pushrods to have a chip or some other restriction that has to be blown out before assembly.

[SheSaid]

Russ: Yes I did check lifter preload. I installed the lifters dry and mocked up head and rocker arms. I used stock push rods and measured that I had just about maxed the preload on the lifters. That is when I did the math and figured out the size I needed. I found a Seal Power set of Push Rods with the correct Length. So I used those. Part # RP3171 . Do you think the hole size is different than stock causing the problem???

Also, yesterday I pulled pushrods out of 1-3, swapped the rockers to eliminate them as a cause. During that procedure I checked each pushrod. Each were clear and straight. I ran out of time before I could check 4-6 but I think they are all ok. With the engine not running each rocker feels solid, I can turn the push rod some if the valve is closed but they do not feel "loose."


Thank you for the Help!

[SheSaid]

Also, for the record I am using DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS LIF1122 lifters. Not sure if anybody else has used these and had any issue?

***I fixed video settings in YouTube so the link to the video should work***

Thanks

[Russ Pottenger]

With the lifter resting on the heel of the camshaft and the lifter just starting to depress the plunger in the lifter,
are you somewhere between 1/4 to 3/4's of a turn adjustment?

[SilverXJ]

How long has this engine been run? Did you prime the oil system prior to firing? Did you do the cam break in yet? Check the rockers for no obstruction in their holes?

[SheSaid]

Thank you for the reply's

Russ: The rockers are not adjustable so I assume you mean the rocker shaft bolts? I cant recall if exactly if they go down 1/2-3/4 turn or not. This would be as I am tightening down the rocker shaft the push rod engages the lifter and begins to compress it as I tighten the bolt. I see what you are asking. I will have to take one off an try again I don't recall how much they compress.

Silver XJ: This motor was built last winter. First fire up was in the spring. I have broken in the cam and driven less than 500 miles. I am working with a tuner to debug some detonation issues and that damn Death Wobble slowed me down over the summer. So this engine is still fresh but mostly broken in. Before the first fire up I primed the oil pump and saw oil coming out the rockers... If I recall I think it was coming out the same rockers but since i am used to Chrysler SB which rocker oil turns on and off as the engine rotates I thought I was good and that the oil was getting to all... No obstruction in rocker holes. Again I swapped rockers from #1 to #2 and the problem remained on #2 so I am ruling out rocker problem.

My next idea was to use two magnets and swap lifters from #1 to #2 and see if the problem follows the lifters but I think this is going to be a pain in the ass through the little pushrod holes. WHY CANT YOU GET A LIFTER OUT WITHOUT REMOVING THE HEAD

Thanks for all the help!

[CandyCaneXj]

Did you use new oil galley plugs? I put new ones in on mine and i noticed the new ones were like 50% longer and when you torqued the one down in the front of the engine it went in so far it cut off the oil flow for #1 cam bearing pretty badly so I had to mark it, take it out, and cut a v in it. If you have a longer plug cutting off oil up front maybe that would cause extra oil to flow at other areas?

[SheSaid]

Well... I got some bad news. I managed to pull the head, intake, and exhaust all off at the same time. I took apart a few of the lifters and found that the oil metering plate inside the suspect lifters was installed cock-eyed and I think that caused the oil to rush past the two suspect lifters.

I then put a dial on the block and measured the lift of the cam. Looks like I wiped intake lobes on #7 and #8. You can see the rockers were not rockin like they should in the video. The lobes are about half as bumpy as they should be. I followed the break-in procedure but I suspect the lack of proper oiling in the area caused the damage. Now I'm thinking I should pull the pan and check rod bearings.

So I need a new cam, lifters, possibly rod bearings. I am open to cam and lifter suggestions.

Here are my specs
My old cam was Comp 68-239. I liked the way it ran but it may have been too much lift.
4.6L
10.25:1 Static Comp
7120 Head Ported
Dual Exhaust Header with true dual 2" Exhaust
68 MM Throttle Body
5 Speed with 33's and 4:11 gears
Looking to still run pump gas but I like a lumpy idle.
Trying to keep DCR between 8.00-8.40

Thanks

[Cheromaniac]

You could run the smaller 68-235-4 cam instead. Still enough duration to make the idle slightly lumpy but with less lift to make it easier on the valvetrain.
I've been running Crown Automotive lifters for the last 47k miles on my stroker and, knock on wood, they've been flawless.

[SheSaid]

You could run the smaller 68-235-4 cam instead. Still enough duration to make the idle slightly lumpy but with less lift to make it easier on the valvetrain.
I've been running Crown Automotive lifters for the last 47k miles on my stroker and, knock on wood, they've been flawless.

Yeah that was my first choice in cam until I ran the Dynamic. It puts me with a higher dynamic due to the intake valve closing sooner. I need to lower the Dynamic CR becasue I think I was on the edge of pump gas with old cam.

Has anybody run Crower # 44245?

Also I plan to run the Crower "camsaver" lifters. Let me know if anybody has run these...

BTW this webpage is GREAT for cam comparisons: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Jeep4.0Camshafts.htm

[jsawduste]

Call and talk to Russ Pottenger. He has several grinds that may be of interest to you. He has off the shelf plus custom.

Clay Smith is another alternative. Look to keep the lobe separation 112 + to keep the Map sensor happy.