Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?

Performance mods and Advanced Stroker discussion.
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str8-6
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Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?

Post by str8-6 »

So I'm going to rebuild my engine and there will be new valvesprings and a new camshaft,as I get it the valvesprings should be broken in at 1000-2000 steady rpm's up to full operational temp and then You should shut the engine of and let it cool down,but how do You do when breaking in a new camshaft requiers a totally different break in procedure?

I think I read somewhere that You can compress the valvesprings in a wise to take some tension out of them before installing them on the head,is that a possibility or is my memory pranking me as usual?

I don't have any other weaker springs to use that will accept the valvelift on the new camshaft so that is not an option as I see it,any suggestions from anybody?
jsawduste
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Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?

Post by jsawduste »

Put it together with decent spring pressure and run it.

Your overthinking this or have to many friends.
akadeutsch
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Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?

Post by akadeutsch »

Agreed. Use a zddp additive in the oil and let it rip. 2,500 revs for 20 min.
str8-6
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Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?

Post by str8-6 »

Yup I'm like that;overthinking is my midlle name,but I really like it to stay in one piece since it takes a lot of time and money to get stuff shipped to Sweden from the US.

Spring pressure will be OK according to a tech at Crane, installed pressure @ 100 ,open pressure just under 295 on the exhaust lobe,slightly less on the intake.spring rate is 335 lbs/in.,camshaft is a Lunati Vodoo 268/276 (lift : .527 in .548 ex)

Break in will be done with Joe Gibbs Break In oil, and after break in I will use Omega or Kendall Titanium sae 20/50 mineral oil,Kendall is good and has a decent price but Omega Oil is the really good stuff but the price is a bit on the expensive side...

Thanks for the replies guys,good to have a second opinion when not really sure myself.

/Hans
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SilverXJ
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Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?

Post by SilverXJ »

Don't worry about the spring break in procedure. Just perform the cam break in procedure.
jsawduste
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Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?

Post by jsawduste »

str8-6 wrote:Yup I'm like that;overthinking is my midlle name,but I really like it to stay in one piece since it takes a lot of time and money to get stuff shipped to Sweden from the US.

Spring pressure will be OK according to a tech at Crane, installed pressure @ 100 ,open pressure just under 295 on the exhaust lobe,slightly less on the intake.spring rate is 335 lbs/in.,camshaft is a Lunati Vodoo 268/276 (lift : .527 in .548 ex)

Break in will be done with Joe Gibbs Break In oil, and after break in I will use Omega or Kendall Titanium sae 20/50 mineral oil,Kendall is good and has a decent price but Omega Oil is the really good stuff but the price is a bit on the expensive side...

Thanks for the replies guys,good to have a second opinion when not really sure myself.

/Hans
Crane tech is commenting on Lunati cams ?

Seat pressure is fine but the open pressures are a bit more then I would like to see.

Why 20w-50 ? 10w-30 is all you need or want. I see a not so happy cam/dist. gear
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Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?

Post by SilverXJ »

jsawduste wrote:Why 20w-50 ? 10w-30 is all you need or want. I see a not so happy cam/dist. gear
x2
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Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?

Post by jeepxj3 »

Spring pressure advice from Crane or Comp Cams Tech, I would trust your friends here before them.

I think that you want a seat pressure about 90-100 pounds, and at max lift around 240-250 pounds, with a spring rate around 275 lb/in.
That seems to be about the average consensus around here.
str8-6
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Re: Breaking in new valvesprings and camshaft?

Post by str8-6 »

Merry Christmas to You all!

Crane recommends above at least 260 for an engine that will rev above 4000 rpm,mine will probably rev around 6000...
20w/50 is the grade I used in this engine since 2009,no sign of wear on the dist.-gear at all,used that grade because the engine was built by worn out used parts laying around in the shop so it was a bit generous with some tolerances to say the least,been punishing the cr*p out of it since 2010 and it's still in one piece but now it's time to step it up a little bit ,decided that after loosing with 2 car-lenghts against a turbocharged BMW one night in late August.so more power natural aspirated and som 75 hp of nitrous on top of that
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