So I have a 92 however I'm using a 87 renix block. There's no previsions for the ign coil that used to mount on the block? What have people come up with to solve this issue? Where could I possibly mount this sucker?
Also my PVC setup. I noticed Chris (silverxj) was running his catch can differently, Dino's is actually setup the same way as Chris to.. He has the rear most valve cover port running to the catch can & the catch can to the intake manifold. His front valve cover port goes into the intake tube like stock? Now wouldn't this still introduce oil into the intake? Assuming you have a good baffled catch can, wouldn't the first valve cover port allow oil intake to the intake?
My setup has both valve cover ports running into a homemade vented catch can? Its low dollar & may not be everyone's taste, but would the physical way its setup be an issue? Do I really need 1 of the valve cover ports running to my intake box?
I was thinking I could weld the ign. Coil bracket to the motor mount. Something like this. Fill in bolt hole and weld the edge.
Then bolt on and connect the coil itself. However the coil has to be grounded and I was curious if the weld would be enough to ground the coil?
I can't really move the coil far without getting into some re-wiring, because the factory wiring (fusible link) has maybe 6-8" of slack.
What's everyone's opinion on that? Weld up the bracket to the mount and strap the ground to it?
Defcon92 wrote:Now wouldn't this still introduce oil into the intake? Assuming you have a good baffled catch can, wouldn't the first valve cover port allow oil intake to the intake?
Not if the system is working correctly and the blow by doesn't overwhelm the rear port. Fresh air should go into the engine via the front port. Then the fumes get sucked int the manifold at the rear port and burned during combustion.
Defcon92 wrote:Then bolt on and connect the coil itself. However the coil has to be grounded and I was curious if the weld would be enough to ground the coil?
I can't really move the coil far without getting into some re-wiring, because the factory wiring (fusible link) has maybe 6-8" of slack.
Weld will be fined for grounding purposes. As far as where to mount the coil any where you like is fine as long as you ground it.
Defcon92 wrote:Now wouldn't this still introduce oil into the intake? Assuming you have a good baffled catch can, wouldn't the first valve cover port allow oil intake to the intake?
Not if the system is working correctly and the blow by doesn't overwhelm the rear port. Fresh air should go into the engine via the front port. Then the fumes get sucked int the manifold at the rear port and burned during combustion.
That is true until high load situations they are designed to be able to pull air from the crankcase through the hose at that point.
Defcon92 wrote:Now wouldn't this still introduce oil into the intake? Assuming you have a good baffled catch can, wouldn't the first valve cover port allow oil intake to the intake?
Not if the system is working correctly and the blow by doesn't overwhelm the rear port. Fresh air should go into the engine via the front port. Then the fumes get sucked int the manifold at the rear port and burned during combustion.
Chris do you think my setups fine with both ports being taken out of the intake tract? Wouldn't this way be better overall? I figured if I had both ports going to a catch can it needed a vent. I'm now using a aluminum bud light bottle that's much thicker than the rockstar one.. Looks better and doesn't crinkle & pop at the slightest touch now lol. Actually going obo keep this one to lol, kinda like it under there went you open the hood.
wjtom wrote:That is true until high load situations they are designed to be able to pull air from the crankcase through the hose at that point.
You are correct as there is no manifold vacuum to pull the fumes from the rear one under a heavy load.
Defcon92 wrote:Chris do you think my setups fine with both ports being taken out of the intake tract? Wouldn't this way be better overall? I figured if I had both ports going to a catch can it needed a vent. I'm now using a aluminum bud light bottle that's much thicker than the rockstar one.. Looks better and doesn't crinkle & pop at the slightest touch now lol. Actually going obo keep this one to lol, kinda like it under there went you open the hood.
Well, it might work to vent gases from the crank case, but there will be no sucking action of any sort pulling the vapors out. Even before the PCV valve cars had a road draft tube which would pull the vapors from the crank case. Its done before with just some breathers on the valve cover. However, the CCV/PCV system is considered an emission device.And as Jeepxj3 said you probably won't pass inspection like that.
Does the 87 block have the holes for the coil above the dipstick like my 85 did? If so you could make an adapter to those.
I would get rid of that PVC elbows and hose, the real elbows are only $4. I made a catch can on my truck out of some ABS pipe full of copper scouring pads. You could use 2" pipe and put the can over it for the look but I would not trust the can to seal anything.
RenoF250 wrote:Does the 87 block have the holes for the coil above the dipstick like my 85 did? If so you could make an adapter to those.
I would get rid of that PVC elbows and hose, the real elbows are only $4. I made a catch can on my truck out of some ABS pipe full of copper scouring pads. You could use 2" pipe and put the can over it for the look but I would not trust the can to seal anything.
I looked hard for the elbows themselves but no part store has a part # and there "dorman replacement isle" didn't have any either? got a part number?
And I've been looking for a cheap-ish can on ebay that I can pick up.
Ok Chris came back to pick your brain a second time. Or anyone who wants to add some input. My valve cover not runs the stock CCV elbows from the dealer. Grey rear, black front.
How should I route my catch can? Front port into the stock air box like factory?
Rear Port into catch can then catch to manifold?
got a part number? 
