Fuel routing

[RenoF250]

How is everyone routing their fuel lines? I had some quick connect 90s that ran the nylon tube down behind the PS pump along with the O2 wire. I just found the loom on the O2 wire melted so apparently that route is too hot. I do not want to risk a fire. I am thinking of coming straight out to the fender and then following it down. That header gets too hot. I wish they would have made the head flow through.

[jsawduste]

I am going to be a butthole and comment that you really are helpless aren't you ? Over on PBB you won the 3 post to ignore list faster then anyone in recent history. Here you babble along expecting folks to hold your hand. Many of the subjects are so elementary that you really could answer them yourself with just a touch of effort.

How is everyone routing their fuel lines? I had some quick connect 90s that ran the nylon tube down behind the PS pump along with the O2 wire. I just found the loom on the O2 wire melted so apparently that route is too hot. I do not want to risk a fire. I am thinking of coming straight out to the fender and then following it down. That header gets too hot. I wish they would have made the head flow through.

What model of Jeep do you have ?
What exhaust header ?
Is the wire routed factory or ?
Did you have cheap Home Depot loom or high temp ?
Did just the wrap burn or the wires also ? Did you look ?
How do you know it`s nylon fuel line ?
Why would you compromise the integrity of a fuel line with quick connects and 90`s at that ? I am guessing they are not the typical sanctioning body approved fuel cell type.
Have you looked at heat shield products ?
So it`s the non flow through heads fault ? If you don`t like it why did you build it ?

Darn it, help yourself for a change. I can see why Ryan gave you the response he did.

Just to be a nice guy I used this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-17062/overview/ for my O2 sensor and WB sensor. Do I need it ? Don`t know but it`s there and I was smart enough to take advantage of it. My fuel lines are in a YJ with tube fenders are rated at 300* and are ethanol resistant. They run from the rail straight to the fender and then down towards the frame well away from the primary tube for cylinder 6. Replaced them last week after 7 years of use as they were beginning to show signs of dry rot.

It wasn't that hard to figure out.

Sorry Chris but this guy is a `tard proven beyond a doubt.

[SilverXJ]

Is the wire routed factory or ?
Did you have cheap Home Depot loom or high temp ?
Did just the wrap burn or the wires also ? Did you look ?

This. A lot of the stuff you can get locally is scrap. Event he good stuff won't hold up to severe heat that well. Take a look at the factory O2 sensor and wire wrap in that area. The nylon stops quite away from the sensor.

We also need more details. Is the routing same as factory? What fuel hose/tube are you using? What do you mean by some 90s and quick disconnects?

[RenoF250]

Is the wire routed factory or ?
Did you have cheap Home Depot loom or high temp ?
Did just the wrap burn or the wires also ? Did you look ?

This. A lot of the stuff you can get locally is scrap. Event he good stuff won't hold up to severe heat that well. Take a look at the factory O2 sensor and wire wrap in that area. The nylon stops quite away from the sensor.

We also need more details. Is the routing same as factory? What fuel hose/tube are you using? What do you mean by some 90s and quick disconnects?

It was the Taylor split loom from Summit. Does not seem to be very high temp. The wires got hot enough they did stick together a bit but the insulation is still round.

I tried to run the O2 wires as close to factory as possible, but the engine is from a Cherokee and it is going in a CJ so it does not exactly translate. I plan to pull the wires almost straight out to the fender which will almost pull the wire tight.

I will take a pic of how it is now.

[RenoF250]

I am going to be a butthole and comment that you really are helpless aren't you ? Over on PBB you won the 3 post to ignore list faster then anyone in recent history. Here you babble along expecting folks to hold your hand. Many of the subjects are so elementary that you really could answer them yourself with just a touch of effort.

How is everyone routing their fuel lines? I had some quick connect 90s that ran the nylon tube down behind the PS pump along with the O2 wire. I just found the loom on the O2 wire melted so apparently that route is too hot. I do not want to risk a fire. I am thinking of coming straight out to the fender and then following it down. That header gets too hot. I wish they would have made the head flow through.

What model of Jeep do you have ?
What exhaust header ?
Is the wire routed factory or ?
Did you have cheap Home Depot loom or high temp ?
Did just the wrap burn or the wires also ? Did you look ?
How do you know it`s nylon fuel line ?
Why would you compromise the integrity of a fuel line with quick connects and 90`s at that ? I am guessing they are not the typical sanctioning body approved fuel cell type.
Have you looked at heat shield products ?
So it`s the non flow through heads fault ? If you don`t like it why did you build it ?

Darn it, help yourself for a change. I can see why Ryan gave you the response he did.

Just to be a nice guy I used this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-17062/overview/ for my O2 sensor and WB sensor. Do I need it ? Don`t know but it`s there and I was smart enough to take advantage of it. My fuel lines are in a YJ with tube fenders are rated at 300* and are ethanol resistant. They run from the rail straight to the fender and then down towards the frame well away from the primary tube for cylinder 6. Replaced them last week after 7 years of use as they were beginning to show signs of dry rot.

It wasn't that hard to figure out.

Sorry Chris but this guy is a `tard proven beyond a doubt.

What is your problem? What did I do to you? Do you have personal problems or something? If it is such a problem for you to respond then don't. I answer peoples questions all the time that don't give much info and I don't whine about it like this. What response did Ryan give me that was so bad? I do not recall anything.

I know it is Nylon because I bought it. The quick connects are Dorman factory replacements that go right on the fuel rail.

No it is not the heads fault but it would have been nice if the exhaust heat was separated from the intake. I believe you have said that yourself.

The last part of your post was very helpful, that is exactly what I wanted to know and you did not even need the answers to those question.

What does the hostility get you?

[SilverXJ]

I will take a pic of how it is now.

A pic would definitely help especially with the quick disconnect and 90s description. On my Xj the O2 sensors are very close to the head and the O2 wires have a good length of their factory high temp insulation on them. I know what the cheap type split loom will not work there as I had some on my wideband sensor and it did distort.

I gave up on the cheap loom a while back and started using a high strength nylon product from McMaster Carr that is good for -40 to 300*. The other option that McMaster Carr lists in the corrugated wrap around sleeving is a Polyethylene good for -40* to 200*. They also have many other higher temp offerings available. I hate that site because them have so much neat stuff and they make ordering so easy... two clicks and BOOM I get it in 3 days or less. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable ... ng/=s8n4h1

No it is not the heads fault but it would have been nice if the exhaust heat was separated from the intake.

Yes, and I would like to win the lottery.... I'm not sure what I have a better chance at though.. an after market cross flow head or winning the lottery... or I may have to win the lottery to afford that aftermarket cross flow head.

[RenoF250]

I will take a pic of how it is now.

A pic would definitely help especially with the quick disconnect and 90s description. On my Xj the O2 sensors are very close to the head and the O2 wires have a good length of their factory high temp insulation on them. I know what the cheap type split loom will not work there as I had some on my wideband sensor and it did distort.

I gave up on the cheap loom a while back and started using a high strength nylon product from McMaster Carr that is good for -40 to 300*. The other option that McMaster Carr lists in the corrugated wrap around sleeving is a Polyethylene good for -40* to 200*. They also have many other higher temp offerings available. I hate that site because them have so much neat stuff and they make ordering so easy... two clicks and BOOM I get it in 3 days or less. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable ... ng/=s8n4h1

No it is not the heads fault but it would have been nice if the exhaust heat was separated from the intake.

Yes, and I would like to win the lottery.... I'm not sure what I have a better chance at though.. an after market cross flow head or winning the lottery... or I may have to win the lottery to afford that aftermarket cross flow head.

Here is a pic.

Fuel.JPG

[RenoF250]

I do not remember my factory O2 wires having any loom on them at all, just oily.

The 90s seemed like a good idea at the time, stupid now. Like I say, I will probably go with the straight version and go to the fender. I took a lighter to a piece of the left over nylon tube and it can take some heat.

The air filter monstrosity is something I made out of drain pipe to hold me over until the Rock-It gets here. I did not want to pay $60 for 2 day shipping and did not want to wait so I bought a $26 Spectre universal filter and made a temp.

[SilverXJ]

I see what you mean about the 90s now. On my 2000 the fuel line comes out of the rail at a straight angle. Then there is about 10" of hose that goes to the outer most bottom side of the manifold where it meets a stainless steel line. I have the line wrapped in some DEI heat reflective covering. It bolts to the manifold at the lowest point under the throttle body they continues to the body. This is the factory routing BTW.

[wjtom]

I agree bashing someone does nothing.He could be a total newbie but at least hes trying and asking before he makes a big mistake.What seems simple to some of us may not be that way to someone starting out.Remember you where here once.There is alot to learn here especially doing it the right and wrong way.Just saying.It doesnt take much to turn people off from this especially when it is so hard to begin with.

[RenoF250]

Here is how it ended up. That fire sleeve is 1" and the O2 connector BARELY fit, had to put a bag over it to smooth it and pull it through with a wire. Also replaced the steel fuel line I had added with Parker EasyBend tube. It was $4.60/foot but it looks like it is pretty nice stuff and you can bend it with your hands.

CIMG5568 (Large).JPG

[SilverXJ]

That should work. Do you have a link to the Parker tube that you used?

[RenoF250]

That should work. Do you have a link to the Parker tube that you used?

I bought it at the Parker fitting store but it does not appear to be a Parker product. I think this is it:
http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Bend-Tubing-25/dp/B007QV5PB0

If it does not work I am out of room to move it away. I did everything I could - straight out and fire sleeve.

It is apparently a copper nickle alloy. Fairly thick wall. The guys at the Parker store said they use it on stuff for crawlers all the time. Seems like nice stuff.