Sanity Check

[the grey ghost]

That's the one, 280/280 .448 of lift

[broncocliff]

Nice!! I missed that above. Let us know how it runs when you get it all fired up!!
I think I will be using this cam. It's either between the lunati and crower.

[RenoF250]

That's the one, 280/280 .448 of lift

That is the 44915, I have the 44902:
http://www.crower.com/camshafts.html?cat=931

Looks like the 44915 is a bit hotter.

[the grey ghost]

I'm sorry your right, I didn't pay any attention to your grind number, should still perform well

[RenoF250]

Just fired it up and broke it in. That header gets scary red. Oil got to ~255. Hottest part of block was ~235. Ran pretty nice, no weird noises or knocks. O2 gauge was mostly at optimum to rich and went lean when you let off.

It appears my PCM is looking for a security module. It runs the FP for about 2 sec and then shuts off so I jumpered the relay for the break-in. Any better way around that?

[RenoF250]

HOLY CRAP!!!! That thing is ridiculous. I cannot go past 1/2 throttle because the cable keeps popping off. At 1/4 throttle it is more powerful than the old 4.2.

It has no subtlety now though, you hit it, it GOES, you let off, it STOPS. Anyway to lighten that up?

[the grey ghost]

Maybe a larger throttle body, I'm workin on that too

[SilverXJ]

Just fired it up and broke it in. That header gets scary red. Oil got to ~255. Hottest part of block was ~235. Ran pretty nice, no weird noises or knocks. O2 gauge was mostly at optimum to rich and went lean when you let off.

Sounds 100% normal to me.

It appears my PCM is looking for a security module. It runs the FP for about 2 sec and then shuts off so I jumpered the relay for the break-in. Any better way around that?

Is this the original PCM?

Anyway to lighten that up?

I'm not sure a larger throttle body would help much as they typically give better throttle response. Too much torque down low maybe?

[RenoF250]

Just fired it up and broke it in. That header gets scary red. Oil got to ~255. Hottest part of block was ~235. Ran pretty nice, no weird noises or knocks. O2 gauge was mostly at optimum to rich and went lean when you let off.

Sounds 100% normal to me.

It appears my PCM is looking for a security module. It runs the FP for about 2 sec and then shuts off so I jumpered the relay for the break-in. Any better way around that?

Is this the original PCM?

Anyway to lighten that up?

I'm not sure a larger throttle body would help much as they typically give better throttle response. Too much torque down low maybe?

It is the original XJ PCM. I found out it is normal and turns it back on when the engine is running.

Seems to have gotten quieter fairly quickly, perhaps it has just made me deaf.

For the throttle someone on Jeepforum recommended a stronger return spring on the throttle. I think I will give that a try. He said he lost on of the 2 on the 4.2 and had the same problem. It sure has torque low. It pulls pretty good at 1k.

The Equus air/fuel gauge may be more trouble than it is worth. It jumps around a lot but generally shows optimum when going constant, rich when on it, and lean when I let off.

How long did you guys run your oil before changing? Some say right after cam break in, others say 500 or 1k. It still looks very clean.

Found the loom on the O2 sensor wiring melted, it is quite a ways from the exhaust. Not sure if it is really getting that hot or the loom is weak. The wires did not appear to be melted and the nylon fuel lines are right next to it.

[SilverXJ]

It is the original XJ PCM. I found out it is normal and turns it back on when the engine is running.

I though your engine was cutting out, misread that. Its normal for the fuel pump to pressurize then shut off until you start.

For the throttle someone on Jeepforum recommended a stronger return spring on the throttle. I think I will give that a try. He said he lost on of the 2 on the 4.2 and had the same problem. It sure has torque low. It pulls pretty good at 1k.

The 4.0L TB has a spring on the shaft... you may want to make sure its not broken. I have also seen a small spring on manual transmission ones that goes form the throttle body to the bracket. I don't think that will help much with your issue though.

The Equus air/fuel gauge may be more trouble than it is worth.

Its using a narrow band sensor? Not worth much.

How long did you guys run your oil before changing? Some say right after cam break in, others say 500 or 1k. It still looks very clean.

Some say right after breaking to get rid of any metal left over from machining and break in. If not now I would go 500 miles.

[RenoF250]

It is using the PCM sensor.

http://www.amazon.com/Equus-8366-Fuel-R ... B000EVU9RY

[jsawduste]

That is a narrow band.

[SilverXJ]

Factory sensors (narrow bands) are not well suited for a gauge with accurate readings. They have 3 points they read well at. Rich, lean and stoich. Poor resolution for everything between.

[RenoF250]

I just got it to try and make sure it does not run lean. It seems to run very well and has not been overheating. Do I need to be concerned about it?

I did contact Chris about tuning and he said to run it for awhile and see how I liked it and then he could modify. Also recommended a box to log O2, MAP, etc for tuning.

I am nervous because I heard stories of engines seizing etc. because they were too lean.

[RenoF250]

Just took it out for the first high speed run. Hit about 4k and it did not like it, I think the valves were floating. I let off right away and it runs the same so hopefully no damage. I should have used heavy springs perhaps that will be in the future. I really have no interest in reving it that high though, 3,500 is the upper end of where I want to be but I do not like them floating that low.

Oil pressure is now down to 40 psi at idle. Oil pan temp was 185 after this run vs. 255 during break-in. Going to take it for another run later and then change the oil with more Lucas break-in oil.