4.6 Stroker build..pics included

[gradon]

Sean you should find a fla. distributor of the brad penn. I bought a case of the 30wt break-in oil for the cam break-in and first 600mi(a day late for 500) and a case of the 10w30. It's at 3600 now so I'll use up the case this weekend. The cases were $51 each, so $4.25 a qt. and no need for additives.

[John]

Maize you are correct, all the traditional oils are seeing significant reductions and modifications in their additive package that makes them less than adequate for our use. I am using a high quality 10W40 motorcycle oil, I can still buy it cheaper than some of the other quality oils and I think the additive package is weighted better for my use. Several of the Porsche engines doing well on it around the country.
John

[Flash]

Using friction modifiers such as Delco EOS, or Comp Cams break-in lube is fine for breaking in a motor, but the chemical make up of the oil is different.

There's nothing wrong with using E.O.S.with every oil change.......it will mix with any oil.


Flash

[Maize583]

Using friction modifiers such as Delco EOS, or Comp Cams break-in lube is fine for breaking in a motor, but the chemical make up of the oil is different.

There's nothing wrong with using E.O.S.with every oil change.......it will mix with any oil.


Flash

I didn't mean to say that there was anything wrong with using it. It is just not as good as using an oil that is chemically made with Zinc additives already in the formula.

Again, just my $0.02 - if you don't like it, disreguard that information. I've been sent to several classes regarding oil grades and quality for my job at Toyota Warranty Services.

[Flash]

I didn't mean to say that there was anything wrong with using it. It is just not as good as using an oil that is chemically made with Zinc additives already in the formula.

I agree.

PM sent


Flash

[oletshot]

Sean you should find a fla. distributor of the brad penn. I bought a case of the 30wt break-in oil for the cam break-in and first 600mi(a day late for 500) and a case of the 10w30. It's at 3600 now so I'll use up the case this weekend. The cases were $51 each, so $4.25 a qt. and no need for additives.

I found this analysis of brad penn 10w30 on bitgo. Seems the zinc & phos may not be as high as they say on the web site or it may just be a fluke.

http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr ... 82&fpart=5

[Alex22]

Since it seems this thread is turning into an oil discussion for the time being, Who came up with the 1200ppm number for zinc content in engine oil for flat tappet cams?

~Alex

[Maize583]

Since it seems this thread is turning into an oil discussion for the time being, Who came up with the 1200ppm number for zinc content in engine oil for flat tappet cams?

~Alex

1200ppm is OK, but not the best. 1400-1600ppm is the desired range for flat tappet cams.

Comp Cams and Crower have both sent bulletins out regarding the Zinc level in oil and their camshafts.

Porshe has also put out a Service Bulletin regarding rebuilding older engines and to use either a Zinc additive, or high zinc oil for their motors.

Keith Ansel, of Foreign Parts Positively (he mainly specialises in British cars) has done several articles on the subject. You can read them @ http://www.foreignpartspositively.com/

Hot Rod magazine also had a good basic article on the lifter issue, and then later discusses the oil issue with flat tappet cams. You can read that @ http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... index.html

Hughes Engines also has a pretty good article on the subject, with some history about how they found this issue with oil. You can read that @ http://www.hughesengines.com/general/te ... ID=1000051

[seanyb505]

It finally started! I locked the rotor to the distributor and tried it with the ears a quarter inch to the drivers side of the bolt hole and it was close. I had unlock the dist and move it to the hole of course. I reset the engine to TDC and installed the locked distributor a quarter inch toward the passenger side. I unlocked the rotor again and it was pointing toward 6 o'clock. I figured since nothing else had worked might as well try. After 3 seconds of cranking it was running. I brought it right to 2100 RPM, oil pressure was around 45 psi and there was no ticking or knocking to be heard. The only real issue was that I left the radiator cap off and when the thermostat opened antifreeze shot into the air. Turned it off, threw in some hot water and tried it again. It started up again which made me happy that it wasnt a fluke the first time. Same oil pressure, same no ticking or knocking. Exhaust sounded great. It took a minute or two upon the second startup for the RPMs to even out but they did. I wanted to see if it would idle without gas after 20 minutes of fast idle so I let off the gas in slow increments but when it got to idle the oil pressure dropped and the check gauges light came on so I revved it back to 2k and it came back to 45 psi then I shut it off. It did idle, but with around 5 psi. Im kinda concerned, but at least it's running!

[gradon]

Good Deal!

[seanyb505]

Turns out there is a Brad Penn supplier two miles from my house as well.

[dwg86]

did you find out why your oil pressure is 5psi at idle?

[seanyb505]

I went and asked the machine shop and they said it was essentially hot break-in oil falling on its face. They said since I had around 20-25 psi while cranking and 40-45 while running at 2000, it should be ok. Ill be draining the oil sometime this week and inspecting its contents. Stay tuned.

[seanyb505]

I drained the oil and I didnt really see anything come out, so thats good. I didnt get a chance to measure the amount that came out yet, but I did get a chance to drive it around. I pulled nice and evenly, with no fuss. I drove about 10 mi of on off the gas and swung by the machine shop where they said it sounded great with no internal noise, and were surprised at that. The only issue now is a not so small oil leak between the engine and trans. Im guessing the rear main seal has yet to fully seat, and since the break-in oil is so thin it comes right out, about 1 drop every minute or so. Im hoping in the next couple days it sorts itself out, and when I switch to thicker oil it stops for the most part.

Edit: I did pick up a case of Brad Penn Grade 1 30wt.

[Flash]

Make sure your oil filter adapter isn't leaking. it can run alone the pan rail and drip at the back like a rear main seal..............



Flash