New Stroker Won't Run

[Scottr]

Just installed my stroker. Pretty much followed everything from the Stroker Experts page-

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
Keith Black UEM-IC944-030 pistons
CompCams 68-231-4 206/214 degree camshaft
Mill block deck 0.020"
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.050" quench height
Ford 24lb/hr injectors
Titan Engines High Performance Head

It turns over and starts sometimes. If it starts it runs very rough. Usually dies with 5 seconds. I get a fault code- P0202. We swapped injectors. We ran new wires from just off the computer to the injector. Could the timing be off? Any input is appreciated.

I hate that I should be breaking-in the new cam and all it is getting is short bursts of turning over the engine....

[SilverXJ]

Where did your injectors come from and have you ran the before?

[Scottr]

I got the injectors reconditioned on ebay. Definitely don't know how good they are. We swapped injectors in cylinder 1 and 2. Same error P0202. Also swapped in another Ford injector (I have 8 of them because they are for v8.) Same error code.
Also put stock injectors back in. All had roughly the same result... I am at a loss.

[SilverXJ]

Its odd that you are getting the p0202 with all the injectors you swapped. I think we can rule out injector issues. You can also check the signal to the injector with a noid light, that would verify that the PCM is sending out voltage to the injector as well as the wiring is good. However, even if it was just one faulty cylinder like the code is showing it should still run. I think there maybe something else wrong.

You said you replaced the wiring from the PCM to #2 injector. Did you check the pins and sockets on the PCM too?

Try reindexing the distributor: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... =34&t=2796

Check your fuel pressure to make sure its not something insanely high that would hold the injector closed. But thats doubtful.

And be sure to check all your grounds and connections.

[Scottr]

In the process of getting ready to re-index the distributor- I removed the spark plugs. Here they are in order. Cylinder 2 looks brand new. The others have some black on them (for the few seconds that the jeep has run). What does this mean for cylinder 2??

20140316_1.jpg

[6TIME]

It's hard to say whats going on regarding plug color with such little run time on the motor. Confirm the dizzy is indexed correctly first. What timing set did you use with the cam and was it degreed?

[Scottr]

Cloyes Timing Chain
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-9-3127

Truthfully- I don't know if the cam was degreed. I had the machine shop install it along with the timing cover and harmonic balancer. I would have to call them tomorrow. Or remove the timing cover.

My distributor looks like it is pointed right at the cylinder 1 when the engine is at TDC. However, it is about 2.5 cm from the wires on the distributor housing. Whereas the how to index the distributor says it should be 3 cm. So, maybe it is off a tooth. However, if I move it one then I swear it will be past (to the left) the cylinder 1 contact. (Not sure which way it rotates.

Thanks for quick replies. I (and my wife) really want to get this figured out quickly.

Scott

[Scottr]

It looks like the sweet spot is in between gears on the cam. So, it looks like if I cut one of the ears of the distributor housing off I can rotate it to where I get the 3cm in the write-up and the contact of the rotor is just about to come in contact with the cylinder one contact. Does that make sense? I have read that some people have to cut the ear of the distributor and others say it is not needed. It looks like if I do it then everything will line up correctly.

[SilverXJ]

Yes, you may have to modify the ears on the distributor to get it to index correctly.

That #2 plug looks like it hasn't seen combustion. No fuel or no spark. Since the PCM is giving a code for that injector I'd say no fuel. Put a noid light on that injector plug and see what it does.

Did this vehicle have a running engine it at one point?

[Scottr]

Great news- It runs! Looks like cutting off the ear of the distributor and turning it a little worked.

I ran it for 25 minutes. Varying the RPM between 2000 and 3000.

Temperature got up to 220 as expected. The AFR was right around 14.7- just changed a little when I was changing RPMs.

Several things-
The exhaust header got red hot. Is this normal for break-in?

The oil pressure started off around 40 psi. By the end of the run it was around 22 psi when I was running 2200. Is this normal? I assume after running for that long/hard the oil is like water. I am running Joe Gibbs break-in oil

When I was varying the RPMs and slowly backing off to 2000 RPM it wanted to drop even more and I had to give it more gas to get back up to 2100. I never really could get it to run right at 2000.


Now I need to install the inner valve springs (dual rate springs). Install Ford Injectors (was running stockers on the breakin). Change oil filter.

[SilverXJ]

Great news- It runs! Looks like cutting off the ear of the distributor and turning it a little worked.

Congrats!

I ran it for 25 minutes. Varying the RPM between 2000 and 3000.

Long 25 minutes, huh?
[quoute]The exhaust header got red hot. Is this normal for break-in?[/quote] 100% normal. I usually jumper my e-fan to run constantly when doing the breakin.

The oil pressure started off around 40 psi. By the end of the run it was around 22 psi when I was running 2200. Is this normal? I assume after running for that long/hard the oil is like water. I am running Joe Gibbs break-in oil

It does get hot and you will see a lower pressure. 22psi at 2200rpm is a bit concerning but keep an eye on it as you drive it.

When I was varying the RPMs and slowly backing off to 2000 RPM it wanted to drop even more and I had to give it more gas to get back up to 2100. I never really could get it to run right at 2000.

could be just the PCM learning the extra displacement or something else.

Now I need to install the inner valve springs (dual rate springs).

What springs are you running? Duals are usually when you need a lot of spring.

What about the P0202 issue? Has that gone away?

[Scottr]

P0202 Error Code has gone away. I also still have the wire jumped from the computer to the injector. I will have to splice back into the stock wiring- hopefully I don't get the error then.

Here is the high flow cylinder head that I bought (hope the link works)-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281016724115?it ... 20&vxp=mtr

It came with the dual rate springs- VS943. The ad says they are GM Performance, but I think they are Sealed Power brand.

I truly don't know if I 'need' the springs. I am running the Comp Cams Camshaft: 68-231-4

[SilverXJ]

Thats a single spring. That thing you call a second "spring" is actually a damper and contributes near nothing to the spring rate.

[6TIME]

Glad you got it running! Does it idle ok yet?

[Scottr]

It idles great. AFR is good. Drove it for 10 or so miles tonight.
However, oil pressure goes down to 5 psi at a stop light. Even dropped to zero a couple times. At driving speed it is up more than 40. Any ideas?
There is also a tick. I think I put too much shim under the rocker arm and there isn't enough preload. Thoughts?

Scott