Stroker suggestion
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Stroker suggestion
Rebuilding my 4.0 and looking for opinions on which route I should take
1. 258 crank and rods with stock 4.0 pistons what kind of power would this make? This make it a 4.5L?
2. 4.6L Low-buck, low CR "rockcrawler" What would this cost?
3. 4.6L "poor man's" stroker What would this cost?
4. 4.6L low-buck stroker What would this cost?
What fuel is required for each setup?
1. 258 crank and rods with stock 4.0 pistons what kind of power would this make? This make it a 4.5L?
2. 4.6L Low-buck, low CR "rockcrawler" What would this cost?
3. 4.6L "poor man's" stroker What would this cost?
4. 4.6L low-buck stroker What would this cost?
What fuel is required for each setup?
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Re: Stroker suggestion
Unless your 4.0 block is low mileage (less than 50,000) with cylinder bores that are within factory tolerances for taper and out-of-round, I suggest you strike out option no.1 'cause the minimum rebore you'll need is +0.020".
The low buck, low CR rockcrawler was conceived as a budget build designed to run on 87 octane gas.
The poor man's stroker is the cheapest build but I've updated that one into a modified poor man's by changing the piston/rod combination to 4.0L rods/IC944 pistons. It's a little more expensive than the original poor man's but offers a lower quench height and less reciprocating mass. I run mine on 91 octane but that's probably overkill on a 9.25:1 CR engine.
The low buck stroker is an evolution of the poor man's with an aftermarket cam, valve springs/retainers/keepers, and a 0.020" block shave thus making it more expensive and more powerful. With a 9.6:1 CR it'll probably require a diet of 91 octane.
The low buck, low CR rockcrawler was conceived as a budget build designed to run on 87 octane gas.
The poor man's stroker is the cheapest build but I've updated that one into a modified poor man's by changing the piston/rod combination to 4.0L rods/IC944 pistons. It's a little more expensive than the original poor man's but offers a lower quench height and less reciprocating mass. I run mine on 91 octane but that's probably overkill on a 9.25:1 CR engine.
The low buck stroker is an evolution of the poor man's with an aftermarket cam, valve springs/retainers/keepers, and a 0.020" block shave thus making it more expensive and more powerful. With a 9.6:1 CR it'll probably require a diet of 91 octane.
1992 XJ 4.6 I6 - 5MT - Stroker build-up, Stroker "recipes" Sold
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car

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Re: Stroker suggestion
My motor has 115k miles still think it will need to be bored over? I'm just tearing it apart because its burns oil might just need rings
In that case I can cross out number 4 as well. Now im looking at low buck, poor mans and poor mans modified.
What will the price difference be of each? So your saying the poor mans modified will require a lower octane than the poor mans
In that case I can cross out number 4 as well. Now im looking at low buck, poor mans and poor mans modified.
What will the price difference be of each? So your saying the poor mans modified will require a lower octane than the poor mans
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Re: Stroker suggestion
Yes2fst4you wrote:My motor has 115k miles still think it will need to be bored over?
2000 XJ. 4.6L stroker
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Re: Stroker suggestion
If for some reason it doesn't need to be bored over will I have any issue running that setup?
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Re: Stroker suggestion
Yes, because it will be a cheap ass way to put an engine together with corners cut at every step of the way.
Save up you money and to once, correctly.
Save up you money and to once, correctly.
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Re: Stroker suggestion
Definatly have it rebored. I went the modified poor man's stroker and it cost me around 3 grand for machine costs and all the internal parts.
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Re: Stroker suggestion
You are talking about ~$250 to have it bored. Are you planning on using the same pistons and rings? If not it would at least need to be honed or the new rings will not seat. 0.030" pistons are the same price and stock. It is not worth it.2fst4you wrote:If for some reason it doesn't need to be bored over will I have any issue running that setup?
- Cheromaniac
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Re: Stroker suggestion
Depends on whether you want your stroker to last at least 100k miles. If you want to cut corners and reuse the stock pistons in the stock bores, that's up to you, but don't expect the engine to last another 100k miles before it starts burning oil again.2fst4you wrote:My motor has 115k miles still think it will need to be bored over? I'm just tearing it apart because its burns oil might just need rings
With a 0.018" lower quench and all else being the same, it might.2fst4you wrote:So your saying the poor mans modified will require a lower octane than the poor mans
1992 XJ 4.6 I6 - 5MT - Stroker build-up, Stroker "recipes" Sold
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car

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Re: Stroker suggestion
Why will it be cutting corners because it won't last as long due to the pistons getting old?
I planned on redoing the motor with a 258 crank and 258 rods then reusing the current pistons unless they need to be replaced. I want to do this as cheap as possible and only will bore it and get bigger pistons if needed. I don't want to spend more than 1k. I drive my jeep about 1,000 miles a year so I don't need it to last forever
I planned on redoing the motor with a 258 crank and 258 rods then reusing the current pistons unless they need to be replaced. I want to do this as cheap as possible and only will bore it and get bigger pistons if needed. I don't want to spend more than 1k. I drive my jeep about 1,000 miles a year so I don't need it to last forever
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Re: Stroker suggestion
I plan to replace the rings just not the pistons unless there bad and need it
- SilverXJ
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Re: Stroker suggestion
With 115k miles your bores won't be round any more, the crosshatch that help seat the rings will be mostly worn down, there may be a ridge from the rings at the top as well as a tapper going toward the bottom and the pistons will be worn as well. There would be no reason to even put new rings on that as they will take a long time to seat, if ever.
Cutting corners in an understatement. Making a POS is what it is if you go that route.
Cutting corners in an understatement. Making a POS is what it is if you go that route.
2000 XJ. 4.6L stroker
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
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Re: Stroker suggestion
If your already tearing everything down and rebuilding it then why not bore it? Cheap and reliable don't mix well. With the extra power the motor will be putting out those old stock pistons aren't the best choice because their already pretty worn out. I know what mine looked like when they came out and theirs no way I would have been able to put them back in. If your trying to stay under $1,000 maybe a regular rebuild would be better for you. That way you could reuse your crank, cam, injectors, and most of the other stuff that can get expensive when doing a stroker build. Even then new pistons and a rebore are what most shops will require at the least. Unless you can save up and get the parts you need.2fst4you wrote:Why will it be cutting corners because it won't last as long due to the pistons getting old?
I planned on redoing the motor with a 258 crank and 258 rods then reusing the current pistons unless they need to be replaced. I want to do this as cheap as possible and only will bore it and get bigger pistons if needed. I don't want to spend more than 1k. I drive my jeep about 1,000 miles a year so I don't need it to last forever
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Re: Stroker suggestion
Thank you for clarifying that for the OP.Radioactivexj wrote:If your already tearing everything down and rebuilding it then why not bore it? Cheap and reliable don't mix well. With the extra power the motor will be putting out those old stock pistons aren't the best choice because their already pretty worn out. I know what mine looked like when they came out and theirs no way I would have been able to put them back in. If your trying to stay under $1,000 maybe a regular rebuild would be better for you. That way you could reuse your crank, cam, injectors, and most of the other stuff that can get expensive when doing a stroker build. Even then new pistons and a rebore are what most shops will require at the least. Unless you can save up and get the parts you need.2fst4you wrote:Why will it be cutting corners because it won't last as long due to the pistons getting old?
I planned on redoing the motor with a 258 crank and 258 rods then reusing the current pistons unless they need to be replaced. I want to do this as cheap as possible and only will bore it and get bigger pistons if needed. I don't want to spend more than 1k. I drive my jeep about 1,000 miles a year so I don't need it to last forever
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Re: Stroker suggestion
Could I just get it honed then reuse the pistons or get new OEM pistons?
Will boring it slightly over with new (larger) pistons but retaining my crank and rods give me any more power?
Will boring it slightly over with new (larger) pistons but retaining my crank and rods give me any more power?
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