95 ZJ Turbo Boosted Stroker

[beiwulf]

Got a cylinder head shipped to me tonight
$110 w/ shipping cost 7120 cast 95 head printed on it.

pulled off the valves, retainers, springs, rocker arms tonight.

[I6FAN]

Dude, way thanks for the pics! Pretty clean looking head. Is that casting flash or gunk on the roof of the intake ports? Either case should clean up nice!

[beiwulf]

It's build-up of gunk. Off to 1 of the machine shops to get it cleaned, and magna fluxed along with my engine block today.

[beiwulf]

1984 Deck Height
9.65" approx. crankshaft center main to the top of block.

[beiwulf]

So at the machinist:
removal of cam bearings, and all plugs.
Hot Tank
Magna Flux
Sonic

in that order:

Then acid dipping block and cylinder head.

Which blocks for the 4.0 are supposed to have the thickest walls?

87-90 (renix) or the 91-95 (Chrysler)?

[beiwulf]

Block and Head magna fluxed and Block sonic tested. Going to pick it up friday... yay!!

Dropped my 12 cw.cs. off at Joe Castillo's in La Mirada today. Looks like the connecting rod journals were never touched (good news)...Not so good is that the mains have been down .010 already from 2.499-2.500. Spoke with ECM (Joe recommended locally) for engine bearing sets. Said going up to .040 under would be the max. The .020 Joe said needed to happen is a go. Cost on main bearings and connecting rod bearings put it about $200 for both. Waiting till the work is done with machine shop before commiting to purchase. Friday I will pick up the block and head to go get it acid dipped. Then back to the machin shop to bore and reset with nickle on the head.

Stroke max recommended by Joe on this 258/4.2L 12 cw.cs. 4.088" (going with 1.8885/1.889 C.R.J.)
Mic'd at 3.898"
rough offset grind 0.190"
final journal sizing 1.8885/1.889" (Clevite CB-1663H 1.8885/1.889)
Rod width 1.070/1.073"

I will post pictures this weekend of the block/head after p/u.

[beiwulf]

21 January 2014 10am picked up the hot dipped, magna-fluxed, and soniced block and the cylinder head. Everything shows as good from machinist

Transporting them over to get acid dipped.

[beiwulf]

Yeah that's a pizza box it's sitting on in the back of the truck. Spaced it and left my wood blocks to transport at home. Improvise and overcome - using what was around and at the disposal.

so cost:
Engine block
- tanked $60
- magna flux $40
- engine block sonic tested $90

Cylinder Head
- tanked
- magna flux $45 total

$235
Contemporary Auto Machine
(714) 842-3144
Huntington Beach, CA 92647

It was about a week turn around or so (pretty quick service)

Acid dip cost $150 for block $45 for cylinder head: quoted prices estimated turn around a week.

[beiwulf]

I'm a bit of a visual guy. I like pictures and story line. Hope you all enjoy the pictures and diagram.

[beiwulf]

I am looking at getting customer connecting rods made for this build.

I am going to running a quad 4 / honda journal size connecting rod to main: 1.8885/1.889
not 100% on the pin size yet 0.905-0.927 yet to be determined. The pin might be better determined on piston - whether off the shelf or a custom piston is used.

Length I am looking to run is a 6.200" leaning towards H beam.

Tom Molnar of Molnar Technologies (K1 former owner/30+ years at Oliver) and a business affiliate of CP-Carillo

He is offering a minimum order of 40 for a group buy:

8 sets of 6 rods - $564.37 per set
3 sets of 6 rods - $752.37 per set
2 sets of 6 rods - $916… per set
1 set of 6 rods -$1410… per a set

Any input or interest in this let me know. If I remember correctly Plechtan was asking for other investors in a group purchase a few years ago. Maybe someone wants to upgrade there rods and get some different specs on there engine… increase compression, decrease side load…

Honda journal width is almost half what ours is on the Jeep i6 blocks. Chevy's width is still not as wide as the AMC inline 6 block either. That is the reason for the custom rod.

According to manual 4.0 & 4.2L crankshaft connecting rod journal width: 1.070 - 1.076 in.

these rods if going with an offset grind will work for the width with any inline 6 amc block

[beiwulf]

So far I am looking at going with a 4" bore and 4.03" stroke with <=8.5:1 compression.

I am going to do a Hard Blok fill up the water pump to increase rigidity in the block considering the bore I am going out to. I will do a baking soda wash and rinse with 9.0pH water to insure neutrality. I am also looking to let it cure out for at least a couple weeks. I am considering a line hone plate affixed during poor and cure and or crankshaft to insure for straight curing (no warp). And looking to keep it level of course.

Considering the Ferrea 6000 series for the valves but damn those things are not cheap for stainless steel (ebay showed $335/LS1 valve set). if i got that right about $20 a valve
And looking at Dino's site for the RR:
73648-12 Stainless steel roller rocker arms AMC 6-CYL, 1.6 ratio, adjustable, stud mount, 3/8" stud, & stud mount, 3/8" stud w/Crower 88416-12 alloy rocker studs (5/16" base thread, 3/8" stud) required to mount rockers.

COMPETITION CAMS 26915-16 GM LS1/LS6 VALVE SPRING
The 26915 is a better than stock replacment but has less load capacity than the 918.
Description:
1.055/1.290 single Beehive Ovate
I.D. .660/.885
Seat load [email protected]
Open load [email protected]
Coil bind 1.085
Rate in (lbs/in)313
Titanium Retainer 772
Steel retainer 774,783

[beiwulf]

Back from acid dip

Block pics.

[beiwulf]

After acid dip cylinder head.

So much cleaner…both block and cylinder head still need to external grinding to clean up some stuff. Not to mention inside casting marks and possible hot spots.

[SilverXJ]

Those are some clean parts.

[beiwulf]

Got my block back up on the engine stand the other night and was just reviewing information in my head thinking about it. After reading up more on other sites and skimming the net reading books…(research doesn't ever stop)

I have decided the taking the block to get it cryo'd would be the next best step (me thinks). After that I will do the block fill. Only planning on going up to right under the freeze plugs. From what I have read up on for doing the block fill. Rinse thoroughly to insure all acid/caustic agents are removed. Blow out with compressed air and dry. Hard Blok has some instructions on container I will review. As for set time to work with material takes about 30-40min. Before pouring: Install and tightening my main caps and head with gasket. This helps to insure any torque/distortion on the block that might change dimensions to be consistent from my understanding. Tapping on the block to work any air bubbles out and should setup firm within 24 hours (rubber mallet should work fine - I think i'll put my daughter to work). I'll probably let setup for a few weeks though considering the time of year. Should get over 65 degrees a few times here in Southern California in that time. Then I will take it to the machine shop for bore, deck height verification, decking according to internals (I have yet to order).

Am I missing anything…

Found another good reference build on another site. It's not a stroker but a good build thread non-the less.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... hp?t=89636

And a GREAT reference to understanding the importances of decking, piston to deck clearance and quench quote from the above link.

In regards to quench, you want it and I'll tell you why. When you have quench, whn the piston comes up it will squeeze the mixture out from between the quench areas on the piston and head at a very, very high rate of speed. This not only helps quell detonation but adds torque as well as it homoginizes the air/fuel mixture within the cylinder and there are no dead spots that will tend to detonate under compression as the AF is kept moving at a high rate of speed. In general, much higher compression ratios can be run with lower octane fuel and more power produced in similiar engines.

For quench to have any effect, there must be quench pads on both the piston and head. If you take a look at my previous pictures of my pistons and head, you'll see the pads on both. The piston to head clearance should also be less than .060" and smaller is better although a builder has to allow for piston expansion and rod stretch on any given build. I like to shoot for .040" but I know many people who get away with .025" but that is way pushing it.

After first having my head and block decked for straightness, I mocked everything up and found that the piston was still .033" in the bore. So here we have this lovely compact head chamber with a generous quench area and pistons with quench pads but it's not being utilized by the factory. This is mostly due to manufacturing time limitations and generous casting tolerances.

For me to achieve quench on this build with a .040" gasket I had to have the block milled an additional .030". Why not .033"? Because the rod length tolerance is .002" and that must be brought into the equation.

I hope this answered your questions.

original post by RAMCHARGER on the above mentioned site.

I'm still in search of an aftermarket girdle. One of the other guys on here used to make them but couldn't get in contact with him via this site 8(
I liked the screen and girdle setup SilverXJ has on his build. I was looking at a girdle setup that would be more on the outside instead of on the spine of the crank. Having is setup as helping rigidity as well as a scrapper and screen 3-1 deal. Anyone have any ideas on any existing something like that?

recap:
1) hot tanked
2) magna fluxed
3) sonic'd
4) acid dipped

going to now:
5) cryo
6) fill block
7) bore, hone, and trim deck as needed for square/flatness
(might come back after rods/pistons/crank go in for mockup and decking is checked for piston to deck clearance)
8) order pistons