new stroker running hot

[blu3fan]

so my stroker is now up and running. 4.6L
honestly don't think these is one part that wasnt replaced in the engine bay. so i shouldnt be having issues with cooling.
i have the flowcooler high flow pump
problem is the car runs hot. not super hot that its boiling the coolant but still really hot. hot enough that if you pop the hood it almost burns your hand. the hood and engine compartment is just blazing hot.
is it normal for the car to be running this hot ? i never remembered it running at this high a temp before the rebuild.
*edit. noticed the coolant temp sensor on top of the block is wobbly. gonna replace tomorrow and see how we go

[turbojeeper]

So are meaning underhood temp wise is hotter or as per the temp gauge the vehicle itself is running hotter.

[Cheromaniac]

One reason could be that your engine is still tight after the rebuild so it's going to produce more heat due to internal friction until the parts have bedded in.
Another reason could be a trapped air pocket in the cooling system so before you start the engine from cold next time, jack the front of the Jeep up and leave the radiator cap off. Then start the engine and slowly top the system up with coolant until the bubbles stop, and put the cap back on. Make sure there's enough coolant in the overflow bottle so that the radiator doesn't draw air during the next engine cool down.
Check the colour of your plugs to see if the engine runs lean, and also look at the header to see if it glows after a few minutes' running time.

[blu3fan]

being tight after the rebuild sounds like it may be it. im going to drive her to a hill and bleed the cooling system again just to double check.
will get back with result
plugs are still super clean

[blu3fan]

so i replaced the coolant temp sensor. the plastic on top around the plug had melted. this worry's me.
drove her up the street. was fine until i got to idle where she crept up around 230-240 degrees.
ideas ?
no leaks. coolant looks full and is super clean.not a hose that isn't brand new on the car.
electric fan turns on i can hear it loud as day. mechanical fan seems to be working just fine also. a little stumped.
motor has 1600miles on it now and has not ran hot until the other day

[Knoxes]

Pressure check the system?

I had a rusty cast plug once on a XJ. It wasn't really leaking much fluid, but it wouldn't let the system pressurize properly. I replaced a lot of parts before turning it over to a mechanic out of frustration.

[blu3fan]

could that cause it. there is a tiny dribble of fluid i can see around 2 of the freeze plugs. (odd cos i thought i got a lot of sealant onto them) thinking about a little jb weld to the rescue ?

[heavy equipment]

Having installed a non-stock water pump I'd wonder if it's the correct rotation. The stock pump driven by a serpentine belt turns the pump the opposite rotation from the engine. If the high flow pump was made - for instance - for a 258, it's supposed to turn the same way as the engine. Or, if you're now using v-belts with a pump that was made for a serpentine belt it may be turning the wrong way. A centrifugal pump running in reverse will still pump, but a much lower volume.

[blu3fan]

thermostat changed. engine still runs hot. made sure i got all bubbles out.
im starting to think fan clutch.

it runs correct way. already checked. had her running good for the first month. tracing back to when it started happening. went to smog check. smog guy broke the temp sensor clean off on the back of the engine. i replaced it when i got home. ever since then she runs hot. already replaced that sensor so don't say that.

[SilverXJ]

So your problem started when the gauge sensor got broke? Perhaps the new sensor is faulty... have you verified temps with a IR heat gun?

[blu3fan]

thermostat changed. engine still runs hot. made sure i got all bubbles out.
im starting to think fan clutch.

it runs correct way. already checked. had her running good for the first month. tracing back to when it started happening. went to smog check. smog guy broke the temp sensor clean off on the back of the engine. i replaced it when i got home. ever since then she runs hot. already replaced that sensor so don't say that.

[blu3fan]

fan clutch seems to operating perfectly.
at normal driving speeds does not overheat. overheats rolling up to the light and at idle. if im not on the gas its creeping up.
ideas ?
no leaks
purged system of air
new thermostat
electric fan runs
fan clutch is working
water pump is brand new and i see flow of coolant from when I add it and feel it in hoses
radiator is in great condition. was replaced 2007 but the car sat from 2008-20012, radiator in garage. I would say the radiator is bad(clogged) but it was running fine for the last month. any tests i can do ?
not much else to the cooling system :*( a little frustrated at the most. gotta get the car into smog in the next week. cant have it overheating.

[pityocamptes]

Not trying to hijack this post, but I have a question on the water pump issue, posted above. I am getting a 4.0 stroker soon, changing out my stock amc 258. So the water pumps are NOT the same? Was hoping to use some of the same parts, alternator, water pump, dizzy, etc. since I life time warranty on many of my 258 parts. So the water pump from a 258 will not work on the 4.0, or it will? Thanks!

[pityocamptes]

Did your thermostat fail? Just because it is new doesn't mean anything, I have had new thermo's out of the box that were no good... other option is a faulty or wrong pressure rad cap. Buddy had his engine start to overheat, and it ended up being a bad rad cap that was causing the rad hose to collapse...

[grainofsalt]

I had a stock 4.0 do something like that, Turned out that the 230K stock injectors were leaking. Check to see is they are leaking (A quick peak down the throttle body was enough on the '01) and for proper resistance in the injectors.

Or you could fry eggs on the hood till the motor loses a piston...