Renix stroker tuning...

[tkent02]

Has anyone done a stroker in a Renix Jeep and actually gotten it to run correctly?
If you have, what did you have to do to get it right?
My '90 Cherokee 4.8 runs great wide open or putting around slowly, but it has problems missing at cruising speed or accelerating lightly.

[Muad'Dib]

Yes I have a 90 RENIX 4.7L Stroker with no issues...

I did have issues finding the right size injectors. I started with 26#, then went to 23# now I am running 19#.

I do also have an AFPR and a AEM Wideband kit that has been critical.

I found that on my RENIX, it didn't like MAP changes. I was able to tune by using an MT2500 and my Wideband. The MT2500 was critical so that I could find the correct STFT. I was able to find the right Injector size and fuel pressure watching my STFT.

I have a lot of detail in my build thread.

[tkent02]

Read your build thread, sounds Iike the kind of tuning nightmare I'd like to avoid.
Anyone else got one that runs right?

[Muad'Dib]

It really wasn't that bad once I had the right equipment.

Injector size was the key in my case... Once I had the MT2500 it was an easy find. I was stuck in the "assuming" mode; in that I thought my Stroker should have no fuel issues with ~24# injectors because "that's what's recommended and what everyone else does".

[racing89]

Cam sensor working properly? Does it "bog" under quick acceleration?

[tkent02]

No bogging, just a misfiring at small throttle opening like cruising at 60-70 or very light acceleration. When you open the throttle it goes good. Have not checked the cam sensor, I will.

Made some progress yesterday, cleaned a bunch of grounds and it's much better, only a very slight missing and only very rarely.
I would say it is actually drivable now.

Maybe it's not so much a tuning problem as a poor ground on some sensor somewhere problem.

I also have the 24 lb injectors, I will find out if that is really what i need...

[yuppiexj]

Have you indexed the distributor?
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

It's cheap (free) and easy to do (takes two minutes)

[Muad'Dib]

Do you have a way to monitor your AFR? If so, what happens to your AFR when the issue arises?

[cruiser54]

First off, Renix has no cam sensor. That sync generator in the dizzy is for firing the injectors sequentially only.
YOu can unplug it and probably not even notice a difference in how your Renix runs.
And, the way to index a Renix dizzy is below. The previous procedure posted was for the HO.





Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾” wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.

Revised 07/03/2012

[racing89]

cam sensor, sync pulse generator, stator, sensor thingy in the distributer, what ever you call it DOES affect performance and can cause the drivability concerns in question.



Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾” wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.

Revised 07/03/2012[/quote]