Few questions on some DIY work.

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Desertjr
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Desertjr »

Payed russ yesterday. Plans are the 4.2L setup and a 232 comp with ls1 valve train and a comp spring that he uses. Valves turned down from 2.00/1.55 to 1.92 and 1.53? I think?
Dropped the crank and rods I worked on. He says they turned out pretty good :P and it was my first time doing anything like this alone.
I've helped and even played with over heads. Did a buddies for his 22re. I just read a bunch, learned and understood. Watched videos & studied before and after pictures. I'm no pro, hell I don't think I'm much of anything. I was just always confident on my abilities and went slow. Made sure to learn everything I could first.
I'm starting the head today. Pics before & after will be must of course...duh we all love pictures:).

I'm sure ill have questions but I've got a pretty good idea of what needs to be done. And maybe these pictures & process will help encourage other small time/first time guys to jump in and have some fun. I know I will feel much happier knowing I had something to do personally with my motor. I'd love to get. Down and help russ out whenever he needs as well :cheers:
Pics in a few of the before/starting point.
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Desertjr »

1.95/1.52 valve size. Ok fellas let me if this will run on pump gas please!

9.3:1 static
7.96:1 dynamic
Quench .031

If I dial the comp232 back from 3* advanced to 0* (straight up) the dynamic drops to 7.8:1. I'd like to run on. 87 octane. I'm at sea level. That quench is mighty tight but idk if its enough to get me to unleaded? What everyone think?
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Desertjr »

Also how will the power band be effected if retarding it from 3* to 0*? Like rpm range?
At 3* the cam states 800-4800 rpm range. So at 0* it'd be?

Same question, different cam.
If the stock cam is used at 0* I get 9.3:1 & 7.3:1 static, .o31 quench. With the stock 87-95 cam installed straight up what would the rpm range be?


I'm very worried about the horror stories of the comps, or hell any cam failing for that point. I've yet to find a post about the stock cam failing. Also lifters that fail as well. Gonna talk to Russ about the springs he recommends as far as what pressures and such they run. Would it be beneficial to running a little lighter pressure than stock? Valve lift my be an issue but 5000rpm isn't much either..The valves I'm running are 10 grams lighter on the intake and 12 or 15 on the exhaust, can't remember. Ls1 stuff turned down, so that should be beneficial as well.
Waiting for silvers response on the topline lifters I've seen him post about. I was going to run sealed power but saw a couple threads about failed lifters. So interested in the top line lifters for sure.
I know a lot of it comes down to break in but see cams fail at 30k or so is a big deal. It will be broken in correctly and I plan to add zddp additive for the first 5 or so changes. I want this mini stroker to run like my factory 4.0, it snapped the crank snout and still will run fine. It's pushing mid 300k now as well. I'd love to get that or more out of the new mini stroker.
Advice on the cam questions up top please and the Dcr question regarding pump gas as well?
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by SilverXJ »

I've seen two failing stock cams. They hadn't failed yet, but they noses were pitted and scuffed. One was from my original 2000 engine, and the other was one from a 2004 that I purchased to install in the 2000. Oh.. there was a third that was really bad.. but that was from a core block, so I have no idea what happened to that one.
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Desertjr »

SilverXJ wrote:I've seen two failing stock cams. They hadn't failed yet, but they noses were pitted and scuffed. One was from my original 2000 engine, and the other was one from a 2004 that I purchased to install in the 2000. Oh.. there was a third that was really bad.. but that was from a core block, so I have no idea what happened to that one.
Thanks, never knew. Interesting to say the least. I've been looking for a stock cam failure. How's your take on the sealed power over the topline lifters? Are the top line worth the extra 30 or 40 bucks? I know you compared them all and believe you said the topline were around 60? But these weren't in the comparison...

Also think I answered my own Dcr and octane question. And if anyone else needs clarification here you go.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/87-o ... ld-913883/

.051 quench, 9.6:1 static, 8.25:1 dynamic. He's also at sea level and is running the same comp 232 as myself. I've got a tighter quench at .031, slightly less dynamic and static and also am at sea level. :banana:
I'm thinking Ill have no issue but may need 89(mid grade) in the hotter summer months 105*+. I'm also thinking that 60cc chambers would be nice and bump me up to 9.5:1 static and 8.1:1 dynamic. We will see what I end up, no more than 62cc for sure.

Sound about right?
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by SilverXJ »

I haven't seen the sealed power that I know of. However, I bet it would be similar in design and look to the Mystery one and the Engine Tech in my comparison. Unless they are drastically different I would go with the Topline/Johnson lifters.
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Desertjr »

Ya just gonna run the toplines. They have some good reviews and no issues I've found yet about collapsed lifters and such. Im very happy to see my motor will run on 87:) huge relief.
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Desertjr »

Been out for a while russ just got the block back. It's deck height is 9.453. Can anyone help me figure out what actual deck height I'd end up with?

Crank 3.500
Rod 6.123
Piston - 1.592

I'm coming up with 11.173? Which is obviously wrong lol.

6.123 + 1.592 + 3.413 & the .045 difference of the bigger stroke = 11.173

Or is it

6.123 + .009 (cd distance difference between pistons) + 3.413 & the .045 difference of bigger stroke? It = 9.59

If its the later that means 9.59 -9.453 = .137 above deck?

Any help here lol?
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by SilverXJ »

deck height - (rod length + piston pin height + (stroke/2))= deck clearance (not deck height)

9.453 - (6.123 + 1.592 + (3.5/2)) = -.012

Crank throw = crank stroke / 2

The piston will be .012" above the deck. Using the .043" head gasket will give you a .031" quench, which agrees with your previous numbers.
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Desertjr »

Perfection.
If anyone has time to cross check for me..I'm using the calculator at the top of the page but. Not sure how good it is.

3.500 stroke
3.935 bore
62cc chambers
.012 deck clearence
.051 head gasket
15.2 cc dish
Comp 232 cam specs.

9.18:1 static
7.8:1 dynamic
.039 quench
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Muad'Dib »

Its extremely accurate...
If it feels right, then STROKE it!
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Desertjr »

AWSOME so my numbers should be damn close? Will probably swap to a .043 just because..slightly more compression & quench will be better overall.
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Desertjr »

Hey silver can you do me a big favor and double check my compression ratio. Specs posted above... just wanna make sure its all good before its together and too late.
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Cheromaniac »

Desertjr wrote:Perfection.
If anyone has time to cross check for me..I'm using the calculator at the top of the page but. Not sure how good it is.

3.500 stroke
3.935 bore
62cc chambers
.012 deck clearence
.051 head gasket
15.2 cc dish
Comp 232 cam specs.

9.18:1 static
7.8:1 dynamic
.039 quench
Are you sure your chambers are 62cc? Most stock heads are 57-58cc.
Deck clearance is actually -0.012" so you'll need to recalculate your CR numbers.
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Re: Few questions on some DIY work.

Post by Desertjr »

Ya Dino they are opened up a bit with. Ls1 valves. And I calculated with .013 above deck..or -.013. I messed up when I listed :doh:
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