4.2ish WJ mini stroker

[SilverXJ]

I'm not so sure about that. He has a WJ and the AC compressor is under the power steering pump. It has a hard line that comes up and goes in front of the valve cover. The FSM wants you to disconnect the AC lines, but they also want you to remove the hood.

[Knoxes]

Well, that would kinda suck if that's the case. But I'll deal with it. Only one way to find out, I guess.

Next question: Looking at all of the recipes, I'm concerned about the ported "HO" head. Years ago, I had an XJ with a stock "HO" motor, which I thought had a different head. But this WJ isn't badged as an "HO". I've read the cylinder head FAQ, which is pretty clear on the different castings. Bottom line - is there a difference between my stock 4.0 head and an "HO"?

[SilverXJ]

All 1991+ engines are HO

[Knoxes]

Should be starting this project late next week. Very nervous. Have a great shop and plenty of tools at my disposal, but I'm definitely lacking in knowledge and experience - never been this deep into a project. Still haven't decided which recipe to use - probably need to go with the most simple and straightforward.

[Knoxes]

Will any of the mild stroke recipes require tuning when they're complete?

Also, comparing two, one calls for Keith Black UEM-IC944-030, which I can't find anywhere, and the other calls for Silvolite UEM-2229 +0.060. Another calls for Sealed Power 677CP. Aside from the overbore, is there a difference in any of these pistons?

Summit has ICON pistons with the same IC944, but they're more than twice as expensive as the Silv-O-lite.

[SilverXJ]

The Icons are forged pistons and need to be used with the 4.0L rods. IIRC they have a dish or 27.73cc. The others are hyperutetics and used with 4.2L rods.

[Knoxes]

4.0L rods = 6.125"
4.2L rods = 5.875"
Right?

Confused by why they can't be used interchangeably with those pistons?

For example, this won't work:

232 3.5" stroke
6.125" rods
Silv-O-Lite UEM-2229

?

[SilverXJ]

Using 4.0L rods with a 258 crank and pistons other than the Keith Black IC944/945, Bulltear's semi custom pistons, or another custom piston will put the piston crown way above the deck. I don't know about with the 232 crank. I would figure it out, but its late and I am too tired at the moment.

[Cheromaniac]

For example, this won't work:
232 3.5" stroke
6.125" rods
Silv-O-Lite UEM-2229

Actually that combo DOES work and is the basis for the mini-stroker.

[Knoxes]

Yeah, that's exactly where I got it from.

I get what Silver was saying - assuming that it was a 258 crank. I was very concerned there for a moment.

I'm now leaning towards that formula - I'm finding that the 232 is a lot cheaper than a 258. And I'd save quite a bit by using the stock rods.

Still a bit confused about the difference between the hyperueretic pistons. Is there a reason why you specified the UEM2229 vs the 667CP? They look identical to me, except for some variation in the ring gaps.

[SilverXJ]

Piston pin height and dish volume: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... ?f=34&t=67

[Cheromaniac]

Is there a reason why you specified the UEM2229 vs the 667CP?

You could use either. The 677CP pistons are 0.005" taller so they leave the deck clearance at -0.007" and the quench at 0.036" if you use a 0.043" head gasket. The 677CP pistons do have a deeper dish than the 2229's so the SCR will be a bit lower.

[Knoxes]

Progress report:

Started yesterday:



Some car porn:



Hood off:



End of day one:



End of day two:



Almost everything is disconnected. I was trying to avoid discharging and removing the a/c system, but I don't think it's possible to pull the engine with the supply and return lines in place. That will have to happen next. I think the intake manifold has to come off to get the exhaust pipe free from the manifold. Once those things are done, I guess it's the bellhousing next. The FSM says to pull the motor without the trans.

The big question at this point is where the lifting points are on this engine.

[Knoxes]

Monday's efforts - discharged and removed the a/c condenser (it had to be done), removed the valve cover, pulled 3 of 4 exhaust manifold-to-pipe bolts. The last one is giving me problems - it's actually the second bolt from front to back. I can't get a good grip on it with a socket, so I think I need an offset wrench to get under the flange. Currently, it's soaking in a bath of PB Blaster. While this slowed things down a bit, I'm feeling pretty optimistic about the whole project and my pace. Once I get this off, I'm pretty close to pulling the engine out.

Found that the head bolts will work just fine for lifting points.

[Knoxes]

Two steps forward... 3 back...

Got the manifold-to-pipe bolt loose with an offset wrench. Pulled a couple of head bolts and replaced with 5" for the lift. Removed the wiring harness for the injectors, pulled the TB. Then I moved to the bellhousing bolts, hoping that I was close to hooking up the lift and finally getting this thing out. It's not clear from the FSM on how many bellhousing bolts there are, but I think there are two on top, that will require removing the head, which means that the manifolds have to come off as well. Confirmation of that would be appreciated.